Hey guys My 2005 MN6 displayed the SCL a couple of years ago and I got the Bypass Module and all was good until a couple of months ago the SCL display came back on. So i bought another Bypass Module thinking that it went bad... Guess what, same thing, it didnt fix a thing.
Anyone had this same problem ? any other solutions or I have to take it to a dealer and have them change the Column Lock ? Thanks

 

I've given up hope on mine, it does it so often I just pull the fuse, and everything works for a few weeks.

 

Take it back. For free.....

 

This was posted couple years back, hope it works for you.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-finally.html

 

OP is talking about the steering column lock not shifter.

 

Where did you get the steering column lock eliminator?

As for testing with the eliminator once in hand,

Using a ohm meter, start with the red wire, and search the other 3 wires until you find a Ohm resistance from the red wire to another color wire (not sure of the color of your wires, but use the red one to find the other side of the locking relay coil wire)

The red to other color wire is the locking relay coil wire.
Note, will only get a ohm reading from the red wire to one other color wire.

Now the other two wires, will be the sensor wires.
note, only these two wires will give an ohm reading to themselves, and not either of the wires to the red wire


Start by putting a 12V charge across the locking relay coil wires.
Touch the 12V positive wire to the red wire connector, the 12v negative wire to the other coil wire terminal at the same time for just a second (may or may not hear a click)

Start with the two sensor wires, and get a ohm reading across these two wire.

Now switch the two 12v wires around, and touch the 12V negitive wire to the red wire terminal and the 12v positive wire to the other coil wire for a second at the same time (will hear a light click this time of the relay locking over the other way). this reversal of voltage through the locking relay coil wires will lock the relay in the other direction.

Now take a second ohm reading on the two other sensor wires again.

The sensor wires, although not the same reading when the relay is locked in the other direction, should have a ohm reading through the two sensor wires no matter which way the relay is locked.

So no ohm reading through the sensor wires with the relay locked in either position, or the same ohm reading no mater which way the relay is locked, the eliminator is defective.

The way the eliminator and steering column module works, it send voltage to the eliminator coil or steering lock motor in one direction to unlock it, and what a specific reading back in ohm from the eliminator or lock back on the sensor wires to show that the steering lock is fully unlocked). To lock the eliminator or steering lock, it reverses the polarity of the 12 volts through the power wires instead, then wants a second/different specific ohm reading back on the sensor wires so it knows that the steering lock is in the full locked postion.

If the eliminator fails the test and you need to buy another eliminator, buy it from here!!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111235442827?lpid=82&chn=ps
kfn01 is the guy that first starting making them for others to sell, had a falling out, and now sells them directly through ebay now instead. Of all the ones he has every made, has only had around 3 of them go bad, and replaced the ones he made no question asked. With others making them now as well, they tend to over heat the pins on the relay when soldering to them, and it cause problem in the locking relay contact point to be either short lived, or to not work at all.

As for his, the red and black wires are the relay coil wires, and the two green wires are the sensor wires. If nothing else, it will let you look at the plug to see the wire locations at the plug to know which wires are which if you have different color wires instead,


As for if the eliminator passes the test and is working, then the problem in in the steering column lock module that you plug the eliminator into.

Here, best bet is either a corroded or cold solder joint on the board or plug connectors, or the reversing relay in the board to send power to the eliminator/actual steering column lock has gone south (couple of dollar to buy and replace the relay on the board in the worse cases).

P.S, too bad you don't live close to me, since I could get you right as rain in less than an hour; even if I had to repair the car module board, or just repair/make you another eliminator instead.


As for the OEM 05 steering column lock, even with a new one installed at the tune of around $800, it's a short time fix, then the new steering column lock will end up going south as well.

The problem is the OEM steering lock has a plastic worm drive gear that will start to bind up over time, and when this happens, the steering column lock will not fully unlock or lock in the time allows (send back the needed ohm reading on the sensor wires), which cause the error code, which will not allow you to star the car.

Also, when the battery is not fully charged, this causes a even huger drop in voltage to the steering column lock motor as well, so between lower voltage, and the binding worn gear, your SOL for the lock to get into the correct position in time so the car does not through the dreaded code and the car not starting.

With the battery at 13v fully charged, the steering column lock motor only sees around 12v. When the battery is drained down to around 12v, the steering column lock motor is only seeing around 11v, and is not enough voltage to drive the motor correctly/fast enough instead.

The huge key to a correctly working eliminator, it will still work when the voltage gets down in the 10v range to switch the locking coil and give the needed ohm Resistance back on the sensor wires to trick the oem module into thinking that the OEM steering column lock is the needed full locked or unlocked position instead.

 

PM Sent

 

I am on by second bypass eliminator (from eBay), and the second one worked for two weeks. Now, I get the same no-start condition a few times with the "Service Column Lock" on the DIC.

So frustrated...

kfn01 was happy to send this second one to me...but with a second failure so quickly, I'm not sure its the module or my car somehow. The thing installs easily enough in about 30 minutes, once you've done it twice...

So... I'm in a bit of quandry on what to do next...

Is there a GM part number for just the module that might be bad? Or should I disassemble and look for burned relays, etc., as mentioned above? is there a DIY post with pics on rebuilding the module?

 

Pull the control module that you plug the eliminator into to start with (large box at 3.42). On connector that plugs into the car itself (whites wires), spray it with electrical contact cleaner with a towel under it so keep the over dray/drips from dripping down into the car. On the control module in hand at the bench light up both connector sockets with the spray cleaners, as well as the eliminator plug as well. On the controller sockets pins, use some dielectric grease on a Q-tip to grease them, then you can put it all back together.



Now the fun one, and when you are getting the service message, what is the voltage on the dash reading?

Hence what you think is a eliminator problem, could be a voltage problem on the car to the control box instead. Here is could be as simple as just a corroded/loose main electrical charging wire problem and causing a low voltage problem when you try to start the car instead.

So when you go to start the car, lets work this backwards.

Controller box should be sending 12 volt to switch the eliminator locking relay to the unlocked position ,and should be reading around 2940hm reading back on the eliminator sensor wires so the controller tells the BCM that the steering lock in the unlocked position (locked position is around 294ohms on the signal wires instead).

So to break this down to the simple level, either the eliminator is bad (again, easy to check as pointed out in other post above), the controller is receiving/ not sending 12 volts through its relay to switch the eliminator relay lock coil from locked to the unlocked position, the controller is not reading the eliminator signal ohms correctly, or a problem from the controller wiring relay to the BCM instead.

Downloadable/zoomable Wiring schematic in PDF so you can blow it up to see the details.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/oaa02e...ck_diagram.pdf

The fact that the eliminator worked for a couple of weeks, then started to act up, either screams charging problem in the car with the battery very low when you are having problems, or you have a problem in the wire connectors to control box terminals instead that you where working with as you installed the eliminators (just need to cleaned).

So on that note, pull and electrical contact clean the wire connector points, use some dielectric grease on the contact points to keep the problem from coming back, and double check the dash voltage when you are having this problem to weed out electrical charging wiring problems under the hood causing the problem instead.

As for all of these out of the way ,and the problem still keeps coming back/eliminator good, then you have a problem in the control box (relay or solder joints), and time to pull the controller module apart to get to the control board to start checking it out.

 

Dano, I just wanted to thank you for the information posted here. For anyone fighting one of your many 05's problems like mine, I kept having the SCS light after 7ish years of no issues after installing the eliminator. After pulling and reinstalling the plugs and getting hit/miss results, here's my fix:
I pulled the board out of the dark grayish box and plugged everything back into it. I noticed the plug went in deeper and no column light!!!! It always threw the light with the housing on so i took the board back out of the housing and drilled the housing out so the plug would go all the way to the board. This gave the plug 3/16" more depth of connection. I then put the board back into the modified case, plugged in the eliminator and ran a small zip tie around the whole thing to keep the plug from coming loose. Reassembled it back into the car and finally no service column light now!!!

Hope this helps someone else fighting their early adopter 05

 

Point is kind of mute, since the best solution to the problem, is to do the TSB to just eliminate the steering lock and SCLM so the BCM is no longer looking/using for it.

Hence eliminator if build correctly, should not be the problem after years of use, and with the age of the cars now, its the SCLM (up line that the elimitor plugs into) that often starts to go south instead.