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I understand that is about right if you store your car and do not have it on a tender. From what information I have found if the car is going to be parked for more than 4 days, put it on a tender.
I will try to test the draw on mine just to see what it is.
Another way to definitively test is to fully charge the battery, pull it off the charger and let it sit 24 hours (no xternal connections). With two dead shorted cells, you'll find the battery voltage at less than 10 volts.
Mine was reading more than 12 volts with my Fluke 87 meter. With the hydrometer 4 cells were floating 4 or 5 ***** and 2 were only floating 2 or 3. New battery, no more problems in over a year.
Testing a battery with a volt meter is not a good test because a meter provides no load for the battery to work against. The battery must be heavily loaded and then checked for voltage while it is working hard against that load. The battery must be tested under the same conditions that it is used...under a heavy load that simulates the starter motor.
Testing a battery with a volt meter is not a good test because a meter provides no load for the battery to work against. The battery must be heavily loaded and then checked for voltage while it is working hard against that load. The battery must be tested under the same conditions that it is used...under a heavy load that simulates the starter motor.
I agree that load test is paramount. A battery should be loaded to half the cold cranking amps (CCA) for 15 seconds and stay above 9.5 V. Ideally a new battery should stay in the 10.5 to 11 volt range. The closer you get to 9.5 the weaker the battery.
Make sure to use the CCA when determining the amp load. CCA is rated at 0 degrees F. Some manufactures market the Cranking Amps (CA) which is rated at 32 degrees F which makes the battery appear more powerful than it really is.
Hydrometers are a good tool to use in conjunction with the load test. After charging, all cells should be within 30 points or less. 1250 to 1260 on hydrometer would be fully charged. Example: 5 cells are at 1250 and one is at 1210 = bad battery.
I understand that is about right if you store your car and do not have it on a tender. From what information I have found if the car is going to be parked for more than 4 days, put it on a tender.
I will try to test the draw on mine just to see what it is.
I believe you need to look at the reserve capacity of the battery and not the cranking amps.
Reserve capacity is defined as how many minutes the battery can deliver 25 amps before the voltage drops to 10.5 volts.
The battery on my C5 has a reserve capacity of 110. So this is:
25amps X 110min/60(min/hr) = 45.83 Amp-Hour.
Then 45.83 Amp-Hour/.47 Amp = 97.5 hours or 97.5/24 = 4.06 days
I also have a battery drain issue on my C5. The drain is 0.25 amps and should be about 0.02 amps.