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Need some advice....a fellow forum member posted a few years back that this is how he supports his C6..Jackstands making direct contact with the pucks. (See image)
Im not comfortable with that, just too much uncontacted space that has me concerned on jacking up the other side...
Is there any objection / safety concern / fiberglass damage concern if I place my jack stands directly within contact of the metal frame where the pucks would be? I would believe not but I want to double check.
I do know there is a round top jack stand out there but I don't have it and don't feel like spending more money as my wife will kill me....
I may have answered my own question...my pucks look to be sitting nice and centered and evenly distributed...I haven't tried to raise the other side yet...still looking for a thumbs up or not on this approach.
I may have answered my own question...my pucks look to be sitting nice and centered and evenly distributed...I haven't tried to raise the other side yet...still looking for a thumbs up or not on this approach.
I have supported mine on the pucks many times but, I jack the car up front end first, then place the stands and lower onto the pucks, than same for the rear axle. That way eliminates any laterl movement. If necessary drive one front wheel up on a board to gain some clearance for the jack.
There shouldn't be any problem with placing the jack stands directly within contact of the metal frame where the pucks would be. I dont have any pucks and have been doing this since 2005.
Don't jack up one side, then the other. It just stresses the frame/ can **** the doors over time (plus make it a bear if you have to open the car door)
Jack the entire front up first using the cradle with a support to take the front of the car up first, the take the back of the car up next.
As for the jack stands, tie down points are a good place with the jacking pucks, but if you need to really wrench hard on the car while you are under it, better to just lower the car back down with the tires on ramps for that end of the car instead.
So the way I take the car up, front end first, throw some ramps under the front tires and put front tire back down on the ramps, take the back end up second and put it on the jack stands (higher up if needed that the front end, then come and take the front end up farther with jack stands instead of the ramps).
The Esco jack stands that I use pretty much negate the need for jacking pucks with the giant round rubber pads that come on the stands.
It's an expensive method, but I know for certain that there's no physical effort that I can exert that will cause the car to fall. If you plan on doing any serious work on the car, I wouldn't want to trust a lesser method.
Maybe in days of old there were cases of frames being twisted and doors getting jammed from lifting one corner of a car but thats just not true on a C6. Our frames are so strong that lifting one corner will lift the whole side of the car. If the frame could talk it would say "bring it!" The strength of the frame was one of the selling points of the car.
Maybe in days of old there were cases of frames being twisted and doors getting jammed from lifting one corner of a car but thats just not true on a C6. Our frames are so strong that lifting one corner will lift the whole side of the car. If the frame could talk it would say "bring it!" The strength of the frame was one of the selling points of the car.
I find it easier to simply jack up one side when I need to work on both the front and back (such as wheel removal) rather than dealing with front and then back. I do that when changing all 4 wheels at the track too.
While that used to be a problem with C4's, the hydroformed frame rails starting in C5's cured it.
One thing I won't do, is try to put jackstands on one side and then raise the other. The physics of that don't work in my favor.
BTW, the jacking point in the photo is very weak in relation to the frame where the jackstands are placed.
Thanks for all the replies guys (and this darn form that I love - isn't mailing me all of the replies...grrr)
I was able to get the "light duty" work done of my rim swap with supporting the car via the pucks...actually did a great job...but for the "heavy duty" work I will do in the future..I will def take use of the suggestions/images here.
Borrowed photo since I have the same type steel drive up ramps.
Myself since my driveway is a incline and only the garage is level, just pull the cars out of the garage, and put the vet center of the garage to jack it up there instead. This way as well, if I need to run out and get parts, can just close the garage door and don't have to worry about anyone monkey'g with the car.
Borrowed photo since I have the same type steel drive up ramps.
Myself since my driveway is a incline and only the garage is level, just pull the cars out of the garage, and put the vet center of the garage to jack it up there instead. This way as well, if I need to run out and get parts, can just close the garage door and don't have to worry about anyone monkey'g with the car.
what are you guy's thoughts on this approach?? cutting off the rounded areas to gain a flat surface, this mated to the pucks seams better for surface contact...
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by Brians1
what are you guy's thoughts on this approach?? cutting off the rounded areas to gain a flat surface, this mated to the pucks seams better for surface contact...
Seriously?
Just stick a regular hockey puck on a regular jackstand and be done with it. This isn't rocket science and you are WAY overthinking it - over the past 8 years I've raised my car up like that several hundred times and never had an issue.
I've never had an issue either...And want to keep it that way (I grabbed that image from google btw).
I'm tackling my first "big job" on my C6, BBK upgrade. Knowing I will be wrenching hard I want to ensure stability...plus I have a 4 year old that runs around, and his listening ears aren't always on, so again doing this for extra safety measures. Having just the puck in the stands from my original images does work...but the surface area contact is not the best..thus I am circulating the ideas on thoughts with others.
Just stick a regular hockey puck on a regular jackstand and be done with it. This isn't rocket science and you are WAY overthinking it - over the past 8 years I've raised my car up like that several hundred times and never had an issue.
Not much to add. I have a 4 post lift, so I made short stands out of 2x6's but before I had a lift, I put a puck between the car and the stand. Never had an issue.
what are you guy's thoughts on this approach?? cutting off the rounded areas to gain a flat surface, this mated to the pucks seams better for surface contact...
I ground a slot into my pucks that is the width of the jack stands saddle so they sit down in there nicely. The width of a bench grinder wheel is just about perfect.
Need some advice....a fellow forum member posted a few years back that this is how he supports his C6..Jackstands making direct contact with the pucks. (See image)
Im not comfortable with that, just too much uncontacted space that has me concerned on jacking up the other side...
Is there any objection / safety concern / fiberglass damage concern if I place my jack stands directly within contact of the metal frame where the pucks would be? I would believe not but I want to double check.
I do know there is a round top jack stand out there but I don't have it and don't feel like spending more money as my wife will kill me....
For future reference never jack the car from the center on one side, always jack from the front cradle or the rear cradle. You run the risk of bending the frame the way you are presently jacking (as shown in your photo.)
Raising/Jacking C6 from the side
I find it easier to simply jack up one side when I need to work on both the front and back (such as wheel removal) rather than dealing with front and then back. I do that when changing all 4 wheels at the track too.
