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I've never heard of It either. I guess that why im doing It in my garage this time. No one to blame but myself for if it isn't right this go around. You know how many bolts are in the bellhousing by chance? The last time I did a clutch swap on this car was in 2012 and just remember the bellhousing kicking my teeth in. I thinks its just one up top from what I remember. Had some extra money aside and let someone do the monster install this last time.
I've never heard of It either. I guess that why im doing It in my garage this time. No one to blame but myself for if it isn't right this go around. You know how many bolts are in the bellhousing by chance? The last time I did a clutch swap on this car was in 2012 and just remember the bellhousing kicking my teeth in. I thinks its just one up top from what I remember. Had some extra money aside and let someone do the monster install this last time.
There's one at the very top, then one around the 10 and 2 o clock position. The one on the very top has a wiring loom in the way so I usually use a long extension and pry it out of the way. I have some 1/4" drive flexible sockets that are strong enough to break those bolts loose without breaking.. so that makes it a lot easier. I would be screwed without those.
i got by with 3/8" swivel sockets.
yes that one with the wire harness clamp, take it off before the very top one. I dropped the 2 rear bolts on the front cradle. that drops the engine enough to give you much better room. Tricks of the trade
The shop that put It in said they cut it and it's normal to do this.
Not normal to not install the slave spring, boot, and the end ring.
Worst case, if the slave is too long and you don't have the needed clearance, you can lathe the slave and even the TB collar down to get the needed free lash between the clutch fingers and the TO bearing once installed. But you still need the spring it play to loosely push the TB/sleeve against the clutch fingers so the TB it not bouncing around and pushing the slave plunger farther back than needed (will make clutch shift a bear since the clutch pedal will be unpredictable since the slave cylinder now has a lot of free play that it has to be driven outwards before TB states to make hard contact with the clutch fingers to drive it in. As for the boot, needed to help keep clutch dust out of the slave as much as possible. And the retainer ring, that holds the TB sleeve in place as you are installing the slave, and just driven forward on a self adjust on the slave sleeve as the clutch wears and you use the clutch pedal.