lock plate and the 3 that hold the gear to the cam

 

That's actually what I meant sorry

 

 

What were you thinking, leaving this lot unsupervised?

Thanks for the torque tables...printing out & putting in a plastic sleeve.

 

Lol. Perfect.
They are handy to have

 

Absolutely...I printed them as well!

My project got pushed back by a week..oh well

 

Any updates, have you given it a try yet?

 

No sorry. I keep getting set back by work and/or house guests. Looking like the weekend of the 28th

 

I also changed my 07 z51 at 107K miles with this same Trick Flow and so far so good. I trolled the ATI web site to get one of their blems for a couple of months and was unsuccessful. My HB wobble looked to be twice what yours is. I was getting ready for a 1300 mile road trip and just didn't want to take a chance. Besides, the ATI was probably an over kill for me.

 

I just couldn't stomach the ATI price. If I was going to spend that much I'd just go innovators west.

Regardless.. the cheapo C2501 has been working just fine for me. I checked it earlier today and no wobble at all

 

I would change it asap. My pulley was a bit wobbly as well didn't think much of it but after doing a couple of pulls bolt backed out and pulley almost came out. Shredded my belts and scuffed up a couple of things. It might be fine at idle and light throttle but higher up in the rpm's is a different story.

 

Did my swap this weekend and got carried away working and just did it the normal rack out of the passenger side way. Oops lol

 

Can you try it again the other way and give us a comparison?

Seriously though, any problems, advice? How long? Did you use a lift... just jack up the front...?

 

I'm sorry I meant to look into it but just got on a roll lol.

I put on ported heads and did the cam swap. I used jack stands and the job took from Friday to Sunday because Saturday was wasted looking for steam block off plates for the backs of my new heads...ended up driving to my dad's house 2 hours away . I didn't realize before starting that ls3 heads use a rivet type seal by default. We also found removing the hood to be really helpful...but I had help and wouldn't have done that solo.

I didn't have any problems at all really, other than removing the condenser from the radiator. I ended up cutting the corner off of the bottom passenger clip because the hard lines for the AC wouldn't allow the condenser to come off around the radiator tank otherwise. If you follow rpmextra's step by step guide you'll basically see everything you need.

I will say that having an extra set of hands around made removing the power steering lines way easier and then the rack was a breeze.

A few special tools makes the job a bit easier. I bought a knock off Kent Moore flywheel locking tool from eBay, and the OTC 6667 balancer puller works like a champ for removing the stock pulley. Just make sure you lube the threads.

I also pinned my crank with the ati crank pinning kit (installed an ati 10% UD balancer) and the instructions had no pictures or anything so that took a few minutes to figure out but we got it done.

On the ati ud balancer: I didn't want to try to assemble it on a bench so we just pressed on the hub with the ac pulley behind with the hawk installer (well worth the price for how easy it made the job) and assembled the balancer on the car. The documentation for the AC belt part number is incorrect. They tell you to buy a 40.5" (4040405) belt and I actually needed a 39" (4040390) belt to make my tensioner happy. Luckily one parts store had a decent Gates belt in stock.

I also swapped my timing chain and the oil pan wasn't in the way at all when removing the pump, then we broke apart 6 sets of feeler gauges for the .0015 shims to align the inner and outer rings of the pump.

The job was really straight forward to be honest.

Sorry if my thoughts are all over the place here...typing on my phone.