Video below (if I've linked correctly) of my crank damper at idle (and tensioner). It obviously has some movement, but no belt squeak. Looks to me like both front and back pulleys are vibrating. Car is 2007 Z51 auto coupe w/ apx. 75K, recently purchased.

Questions now... Does this appear to be within "normal" enough movement parameters to just leave it alone until I start to hear some belt noise? If it looks like possibly loose crank bolt movement rather than damper separation, should I try to tighten crank bolt (original, AFAIK)...& what torque, if so? Should I take this as an opportunity to just replace with something like the Summit C2501 damper and 910209 bolt?

I could probably do the work myself (I've pulled and rebuilt a couple of engines, and this is not my DD, so no rush...maybe get a proper puller and installer from Summit), but I'm hesitant to lay a wrench on this car after reading one thread about breaking off a crank bolt in attempted removal (rare?). There's a good Corvette mechanic nearby (north of Atlanta), but I haven't checked with him yet on price.

All comments or advice would be welcome.

Video:

 

as it sits now...I wouldn't touch it. but keep an eye on it just in case.

 

Well I'm not sure I agree to be honest. At higher rpm that hub must really wobble and that can't be good for the engine to be thrown off balance like that.

The job is a bit of a pain but not hard to do. The bolt breaking off would be very rare in my opinion. I've done about 5 or 6 of them.
You'd need the following;
-a puller (mine is a blue-point)
-install tool (hawk has a great one)
-Flywheel lock tool (kent-moore) *some just put the trans in gear i didn't like that.
-Torque wrench that can also do angles
-and a new oem bolt

 

Thanks for the responses.
@rpmextra:
Looks like that flywheel locking tool goes in place of the starter? Is starter removal a hassle?
How much have you removed from the front end in your pics? Looks like you didn't completely remove the steering rack like I've seen in some instructions, but maybe have more body panels, radiator, etc. off.
Why not one of the non-stretch crank bolts, like the ARP or the Summit one I noted, instead of the stock type TTY? A lot of folks seem to prefer them (though pricier).

Thanks for the pics & info on the tools.

 

No problem. I was doing a heads and cam swap on mine. the heads were reworked by Livernois Motorsports (first class shop BTW)
I had asked them the exact same question for the crank bolt, they recommended against it. Dave told me they had experienced a few ARP bolts loosening themselves and decided oem was the only way to go and it's only 7$. I took there word for it as I trust them 100%

As for the locktool. Yes it goes in place of the starter. Starter is 2 bolts and it's out. You just need to move it back enough to install the tool using the starter's bolts. leave the starter wire up if you can.

I just did a C5 balancer and tried something different and I cut labour time by quite a bit. I removed both wheels, both outer tierods. Then i removed the boot on the passenger side of the rack and removed the inner tierod. I removed both rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the steering joint bolt and removed it (lock steering so it doesn't turn) I was then able to move the rack up and work it up and away to have full access to the balancer and left all lines in place leaking not a drop of fluid. I think there is a good chance that may work on a C6. removing the inner makes the rack much shorter and gives you clearance. took me about 1.5 to 2hrs max for the complete job out the door instead of the 3.5hr book time.

On mine I removed both outer tierods, mounting bolts, steering lines, cooler, and steering shaft. I twisted the rack and worked it all the way to the driver side to clear the tierod on the opposite side(passenger) and then lifted it up. I'd try to first C5 method because they skip the line work. worst case I'd do both inners if it doesn't work then i'd have plenty of room.

oh when I say removed outer tierods I mean just from the spindle.

 

That C5 thing is an interesting idea; if I go at it, I think I'll try that first.

I'm not very familiar with steering components; does disconnecting the tierod at the inside disturb the alignment at all? Did you remove the hood to make working easier? Do you think the Z51 power steering cooler would interfere with this approach?

Hope you don't mind all the questions, but it sounds like you have the kind of hands-on experience that often beats "book" method of doing the job. I love that kind of stuff

 

If you only unscrew the inner leaving the outer untouched, then screw it back in (use loctite) you can get away from an alignment in my opinion.

I have the z06 so I have that big cooler as well. I didn't do it that method, it was an afterthought that I later tried on the C5. If I ever do another c6 I'd certainly try. Unless someone else does and says nope. Lol. Then I'd try removing both inner. Not having the oil lines touched was a high bonus and saved me the 1.5hr worth of book time.

I left my hood one. Didn't want to chance taking it off alone. Was more worried about getting it back on.
I didn't have anyone help, I usually don't ask friends because then I owe them freebies in the shop lol. Helped a friend change a transmission, he promised to do my clutch with me, after rescheduling twice, I did it alone.

No worries about the questions. I spend a little time to help out on the forum when I can. I enjoy it. That's why I chimed in

 

I'm going to be doing my cam this weekend so I might try your method. Do I need a special tool for the inner tie rod? (sorry for the thread hijack OP)

 

Mine did the exact same thing. It was fine to over 130K miles while NA

HOWEVER, as soon as I added a supercharger, it came apart (literally within minutes of starting it after the install). It took out the connector on the AC compressor clutch when it went, and luckily I was just idling in the driveway when it happened. It started wearing into the front timing cover as well, but didn't do any real damage because I turned it off so quick. If I had been driving when it happened I imagine the results would have been worse.

If you do decide to replace it, Trick Flow makes one for < $200 that has been working well for me. The part number is C2501.

 

My oem HB had half the amount of wobble that your video shows. I had the belt chirp at cold start up that progressively worsened. My HB wobble increased slightly after S/C install which is when the belt chirp started. Installed an ATI HB and all has been quiet and wobble free.

Your video clearly shows that the seal between the inner and outer HB ring has failed, it's only a matter of time before further damage occurs. Replace it!

 

Any additional info is helpful. Good luck, Let us know how rpmextra's method works for you, if you don't mind.

 

Will do

I was going to also ask if he torqued down the hawks tool (I bought one as well) or if you just go until it stops.

 

Not planning on supercharging, but who knows.... That Trick Flow damper must be the same one Summit sells ($190, good reviews)...same part number & is set up for adding SC, if wanted.

 

Shouldn't be any need to torque in the install tool (might even be a bad thing), just run it in. Main thing it does (on that end) is give you the full advantage of being anchored into all the internal crankshaft threading, preventing stripping out the first few courses as might happen if you tried to use, say, the shorter normal crankshaft bolt to press in the damper.

 

I'm leaning toward that...Not having a lot of success in convincing myself there's much upside to letting it slide, just a bit of trepidation in committing to it

 

Another approach is to grab a spare jack and lower the subframe while leaving the engine in position.

I definitely recommend the flywheel locker. It makes life much easier. The problem with placing the car in gear is that most or all the available space to swing a breaker bar will get used just winding up the driveline.

 

Wow, one day away from my cell and PC and look what happens. I'm back though

No don't torque the hawk tool. Grease the thread on the tool and it will go on like magic. you will know when its tight than back it out.
On your oem crank bolt. Apply a bit of grease to the threads, under washer, and between bolt head and top of washer. no loctite

1st step torque to 111ft
2nd step Back off bolt 180 degrees
3rd step torque to 37ft
final step tighten 230 degrees


here's the torque list for your cam job, and here is a link to the heads and cam swap i did on mine. it will have good info even though your not touching the heads





https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...full-pics.html

 

Thanks so much. I actually am swapping the lifters and throwing on some ported heads

 

great stuff. let me know if you need something or if I'm unclear.
Note. I can't remember if I mention it in the guide. But use loctite on the cam cog bolts. you do not want those to shake loose

 

Got loctite and a comp cam locking plate...hopefully that will do it haha