I hope you guys can help with this issue as I am completely stuck!!

2008 LS3 C/I/H-482rwhp (In case this has something to do with breaking something, I'm looking at any options)

This is the problem I was having Saturday. Going down the road, first gear with traction control off. I hit WOT, and 2 lights and 4 error messages came up. Traction light stayed on, ABS came on. Service messages were; service car soon, service anti lock soon, service active handling soon, and battery voltage low. Voltage dropped to about 10. Steering was stiff and awkward. (Found out active handling has steering sensors also). So I turned the car off hoping I didn't break something in the rear end. Of course, car wouldn't start back. Grabbed a jump box, jumped the car off, ran fine for a minute, then voltage dropped below 8, and the lights and service messages came back on. Went to buy a new battery, it was late, couldn't find one so I jumped the car off and headed to Lenoir from Hickory (about 25 miles). Voltage fluctuated from 12-14 in the first 3-4 miles then remained at 14 for the rest of the ride home. Car has started fine since and drove completely normal since. I have not changed the battery. Tuesday and Wednesday morning I've noticed that the DRL we're flashing on and off during idle at warm up, so this morning I got in the car. The light to show that e-brake was on, was also flashing on and off. These flashes are intermittent and not at the same pace. About 10am this morning I bought and installed a new battery because I hear they can cause nightmare issues on these cars. Checked DRL and they were completely off for a few miles, then came back on as normal, then, they went off again. Same with the e-brake light, drove a little while longer, pulled the car into a parking lot and had the same issue except this time DRL were off BUT e-brake dash light was working fine. Turned the car off, drove back to work, neither were working again. During lock/unlock or headlights on the DRL work as they're supposed to. PLEASE HELP!! Only thing I can think of is a loose ground somewhere unless you guys know of something different!

This is also my first post here so sorry if it's in the wrong area! Thank you for your help!

 

If it were MY car,, here is what I would do:

1. Inspect the battery cables and terminals. The Battery Terminal Clamps use a "SPECIAL" beveled NUT on the top of the terminal clamp. The Beveled Nut is what applies the clamping force on the clamp to properly connect to the battery post. Using any other NUT will NOT,, properly attach the terminal to the battery! Seen it happen numerous times~! The Beveled Nut tightened to a specific INCH POUND value. For the life of me, I cant remember what it is off the top of my head. Make sure the battery terminals, terminal clamp are properly cleaned and tightened.

2. The Battery and the Alternator connect at the starter Solenoid (main terminal) MAKE SURE that that terminal is clean, not burnt and or broken and properly tightened.

3. The BATT Terminal on the back of the alternator (under the rubber boot) needs to be clean and tight.

4. The Battery NEGATIVE cable connects to TWO places. The Chassis frame and on the engine block, just above the starter G-106. Make sure that both of those attachment points are properly connected and tight.

Some of the DTCs are most likely due to loss of power or low voltage. (Yep, you are correct, C5 and C6s DO NOT LIKE, low voltage!)

I would resolve the electrical power issue, CLEAR ALL the DTCs and see what you have.

Check all of that and see where you are at. Please let us know what you find.

NOTE. A lot of the lighting issues that you are seeing have to do with the Body Control Module. I would clear ALL the DTCs and see if that clears up any of the issues.

Monitor the DTCs when you see issues. Make SURE that you don't turn off the ignition before you check for DTC. Some DTCs clear them selves at each ignition OFF cycle. Some Scanners do not read some BCM DTCs.

 

When all your dash lights go berzonkers, I'd have the Battery tested. I seem to recall reading several threads where your symptoms were caused by a failing battery.

 

A failing alternator can also cause intermittent problems and are often the result of a high speed occurrence, such as a WOT blast.

Not saying this is it, but it's a place to look.

 

Drl's go off when the e brake is pulled up. So the drls flashing with the ebrake light makes sense.

Check your ebrake switch. The leather boot just pulls up. I'm guessing perhaps the switch is faulty or is misadjusted.

On your other problems, if they don't reoccur sounds like it was your battery.

I am going to suggest you unhook the battery and check your positive cable routing down to your starter. Two things can happen, one, the starter lug on the solenoid melts due to improper routing and header heat, and two, sometimes when headers are installed the cable routing gets too close to the hot headers and can cause a bare spot that can jump to ground when the engine torques over during acceleration. Make sure the lug is tight and the cable is not hitting the header at all. Going wot then all of this happening could be caused by a loose cable touching ground and that cable can flow a lot of current.

Whenever you unhook the battery you have to reindex your windows. Just put them both all the way up and hold the switch up for another few seconds. If you do it right the windows will go down a little when you open the door and go up when you close the door.

Welcome to the forum! It's a great place to share tech advice and make friends.

 

Appreciate all the help! I've checked the grounds and well be sure to check that starter wire. DRL's still do not come on until I drive for a bit, they do however stay off when E-brake is pulled. I will check that this evening. Pulled codes with my scanner and none showed up. As of the other issues I believe they were cured with the battery. Maybe the DRL issue was there before I just never paid attention until I had other issues! Thank you for the welcome and all of the replies!