So I have read about some air intake making the C6 corvette run lean but never heard of the airaid doing so. Is this normal? So here's my experience, I installed it along with a elite catch can and oil separator. Swapped everything prior to a small road trip. We drove about 300 miles which included freeway driving at about 70-75 mph. Then it also included some hill driving down HWY 1 on the coast with twisty and so. No issues at all. On the way back, I got stuck in stop and go traffic for about 30 miles before I had stop for fuel. During this stop and go traffic, my coolant temp was about 217. Stopped for gas. At this moment, I had clocked about 370 miles without a engine light. After fueling and turning the car on again, the light was on. At first, I thought it was the gas cap. Stop looked at it and it was kinda loose, fixed it. Still light on. Got home 20 miles later and checked the codes. It was P0171 and P0174. Cleared it and so far only driving 10 miles and no light is back one. I retightened everything.
Any idea? Do I need a tune? Need to disconnect the battery to allow the ECM to relearn the fuel trims?

On a side note, my OEM MAF had some weird bolts on. Its like torque or hex with a pin in the middle. Do anyone know where to get a tool for those? I got some but it was six corners, the MAF bolts only have 5

 

5 bolts on the MAF? should only have two on the plastic part coming up from the air cleaner.

 

The oem MAF sensor is attached with a torx bit. Use the proper torx bit and do not over tighten them. It sounds like you have unmetered air downstream from the MAF sensor causing a lean condition. Check all lines and clamps for proper fit and proper tightness. Sometimes the new filters contain oil and contaminate the MAF sensor. Inspect the sensor and spray some electronics parts cleaner on the sensor.

 

It also could have been the cold/hot/cold expansion of the new intake "breaking in", especially if you checked the connections and some were loosened up.

I'd just watch to see if it happens again. If not then it was just a heat cycle thing, if it does then I agree with the others and look for other leaks and/or get some of the MAF cleaner spray and try that.

The bolts with a "pin" in the middle are "security bolts" You can get a set of the bits with a magnetic screwdriver handle for around $10 at sears, craftsman brand. That's the set I have and includes several sizes of Torx, Hex, fork, Y, and square. The Torx and Hex have a hole in the middle to accept the pin.

Also amazon has various sets also http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_417c8bgmgk_b

 

Do you know what set u have?? Did u use for the MAF bolts?? I can't find a set that will work. My boltshave a star pattern with 5 corners. Most hex and torque have a star pattern with 6 corners. Any idea??

So 30 miles so far no light yet..

 

could you take a quick pic? I know some have the tamper proof torx.

 

There's a 5 point and 6 point torx, tamper proof and not tamper proof. Amazon has them all.

Post a picture.

 

It is a 5 point security bolt as mentioned.. No pics yet

 

 

I was able to purchase the tamper proof torx from my local auto parts store.


DJ

 

5 points are not standard tamper proof torx. Those are 6 point.. these are 5

 

Same thing happened to me when i put a cold air intake on my 2011 mustang gt. The MAF is reading more air then what the fuel tables will allow. You need a tune.

 

You need to do a drive cycle so the ECM will adjust for the more air...

 

make sure every clamp is tight and you have no leaks. Check to see that the MASS is pointing the correct way the and is seated fully. "tamper torx" can be bought at most tool vendors. If all is good there you may want to reset the light by unplugging the battery. That will reset the adaptives and when the computer relearns it with adjust the fuel tables to the only information it has, the one you are providing after erasing the memory. However some MASS are weak have a hard time with the added air and turbulence and send the wrong readings to the computer.

 

Fuel trims adjust very quickly.. they can adjust at least 25% in a few seconds.. so I'd be really surprised if an CAI alone is causing 25% more air than it would see in the factory setup. I guess it's possible it's passing over the MAF differently and creating vastly different readings even though the actual air flow isn't that much different.

My vote is leak of some sort though.

 

I agree, I put a killer bee II on my LS3 and thr turbulence across the maf threw my fuel trims off badly, it also had surging, like driving on older car with a bad EGR valve.
I haven't heard complaints on the air raid, but if there are no leaks, then this may be the issue.

Put my factory intake back on to check my normal fuel trim values.

If you have turbulence you will see how erratic the fuel trims are.

DJ

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. So I reset the light with my diablo intune. I also made sure that all the clamps and connections are tight. I have driven 40 miles so far no light at all.

I think I can try disconnecting the battery. I looked for a fuse to do that and I couldn't find one. Any ideas? The catch can and oil separator can't contribute to this, can they?

What I found odd is that I drove over 300 miles without an issue or light. Then in stop and go traffic and high coolant temps, I get a light. With the light, the car still ran fine. No difference at all. Will keep driving to see what happens.

The tune will happen but not yet. I have a set of LT headers that will get install then I'll do a custom tune for everything.

 

Can you do any logging with the intune? I don't know anything about them.

 

I think I can try disconnecting the battery. I looked for a fuse to do that and I couldn't find one. Any ideas?

well you'd just disconnect the battery's negative physically.

Erasing the code would do the same so don't bother and see if it comes back

 

I know one can datalog with the intune. But don't know what program to read it with. I'll have to ask in the tune section