I used a pneumatic diaphragm pump with an oil filter adapter once to pressurize a whole engine with oil prior to starting it after a rebuild. Worked quite well.

Something like this

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...h4QxoCp67w_wcB

 

So how do you check the trans fluid level?

 

I just did the A6 drain and refill, plus filter change, this weekend. All 60 years old going on 61, lard-azz of me. Not the most fun job, but not the worst either. Actually, for all the complaining I do about it, the worst part was the 90+ heat and humidity.

The pumping 6+ quarts using the auto parts chain store $5 cheap plastic pump is kind of a pain, but I just allow myself as much time as it takes (and allow myself as many beers as it takes).

I thought about the floor-cutting method myself, but think that might actually be more work than just sucking it up.

Next time, I am going to modify a tank-sprayer or equivalent, though.

 

Assuming you have never had any leaks, nor cooler line disconnects, checking is not necessary, since it's had no place to go.

If you're wanting to change the fluid/filter at the 50K mile severe service or 100K mile normal service (or something in between), then after draining, pulling the pan, changing the filter, and replacing the pan and plug, follow this in this order.
1. Make sure the car is level. Garage floors usually aren't, so compensate if necessary.
2. Pull the fill plug and add fluid in the same amount you drained + approximately 1/2-1 extra quart. (it'll usually take about 7 quarts)
3. Replace the fill plug.
4. Start the engine and let it run until the trans temp is 100*.
5. While holding the brake, shift the trans through R,N,D,S,D,N,R, and back to P while stopping for 3 seconds in every location.
6. Remove the plug on the bottom of the pan and drain the excess fluid until it becomes a trickle, then replace the plug.
7. Shut the engine off and you're done.

That's it, unless you'll be racing often. If so, add an extra 1/2 quart after #7 is done.

If you just added an external cooler or had other reasons to open the system and want to check the level, then just follow #1-7.

Because the entire system holds nearly 13 quarts, the pan drop will mean about 50% of the fluid is new. If you want a more thorough replacement to get more new fluid in the system without pulling the transmission etc, then bypass replacing the filter and add even 1 more extra quart of fluid. Go drive the car 100-200 miles before starting the whole procedure again, but change the filter this time. That'll give you about 80% new fluid.

TIP: Siphoning as much as possible before dropping the pan will save cleaning up messes. You can do it through the fill hole (best) or through the pan drain hole.

Ideally, you want to keep the fluid temps in the 160-190* range during normal driving. Temporary increases up to 220-240 won't kill it, but long term in that range will severely shorten the transmission life. If you are constantly in the 200-210 range, I'd advise an external cooler and plumb it through the cooler first and then through the stock radiator cooler too. The Phoenix Summer temps lean toward the severe service maintenance schedule.