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How to support engine when pulling the oil pan?

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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:51 PM
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Default How to support engine when pulling the oil pan?

When pulling the pan by dropping the engine cradle, how do you support the engine? Can it be blocked against the steel frame rails someway?
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cmonkey713
When pulling the pan by dropping the engine cradle, how do you support the engine? Can it be blocked against the steel frame rails someway?
Support it under the bellhousing or hold it up from the top with an engine hoist connected to the heads.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 05:06 AM
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I have also heard that it can be supported under the crank pulley. I am also interested in this because I need to change my oil pan gasket.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 07:50 AM
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Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 94ltz
Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
Was this method easier and faster? How did you lift the engine by the crank pulley? Did you do this without a lift, using jack stands?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 94ltz
Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
This is the best idea I have heard yet. Pulling the spring is pretty easy and the motor mount bolts are easy to get to. As far as lifting by the crank pulley it looks like there is plenty of room to get a wooden block in the space and using a floor jack to raise it enough to clear everything. How far does it need to be lifted? there may be some interference issues on the top side, I don't want to cases any unintended damage.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cmonkey713
This is the best idea I have heard yet. Pulling the spring is pretty easy and the motor mount bolts are easy to get to. As far as lifting by the crank pulley it looks like there is plenty of room to get a wooden block in the space and using a floor jack to raise it enough to clear everything. How far does it need to be lifted? there may be some interference issues on the top side, I don't want to cases any unintended damage.
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:23 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:34 PM
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How does it work? Does the bar reach across the front fenders and rest on supports? Then attach the chains to lift bolts on the engine and turn the screws to raise or stabilize the engine. Nice tool if there was more information on exactly how it works.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:42 PM
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Actually I'm thinking now it might not be a good tool for corvettes. It works great on cars with metal inner fenders but not sure how fiberglass ones would do

Here's a picture of one in action.
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/2/1...3816267_tp.jpg
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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A piece of wood and a floor jack lift it just enough to remove the pan and let it back down, then redone when installing it again.

Don't let it just chill on it but this method has worked and the car is still running 15k later.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.
I'm not saying it the best practice but has proven to work, I can't say it will or won't put pressure on bearing but thinking about how the damper pushes against the timing set that sits in front of the oil pump I don't think it will stress the bearings since everything is so tight together I doubt it really shifts but I could be wrong.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
Actually I'm thinking now it might not be a good tool for corvettes. It works great on cars with metal inner fenders but not sure how fiberglass ones would do

Here's a picture of one in action.
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/2/1...3816267_tp.jpg
I see what you mean, it would crush the composite fenders on a Corvette.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Yeah.. I mean, it MIGHT work, but I sure as heck don't want to find out!
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 06:33 PM
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Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cmonkey713
Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
When you put the spring back in you will have to put clamps on lightly, lower the front tires onto 2x10s, then reach under and tighten clamps. The rubber bushings on the spring won't line up otherwise. GM uses a tool that preloads the spring for re-installation.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cmonkey713
Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
The pan will not clear the lower portion of the bell housing using the wood block under the harmonic balancer. It hits on the crossmember not allowing the back of the pan to clear the bell housing. with the engine raised as much as possible it still looks like maybe 3/8" is still needed. Looks like the front cradle needs to be lowered a little to clear the crossmember and bell housing.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 02:24 PM
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Think you can loosen the nuts holding the front cradle enough to lower it down? You should be able to get 1/2" or so I'd think
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.


To the OP'er, Kent Moore makes brackets that sit in the frame rails.

I found them on ebay for under a buck, those along with box steel tubing across the engine bay make this tack simple.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-T...-/111647270642

Last edited by SteveDoten@ARH; Nov 3, 2015 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 05:49 PM
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No way in hell would I ever jack up off the crank pulley.
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