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Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
Was this method easier and faster? How did you lift the engine by the crank pulley? Did you do this without a lift, using jack stands?
Last time I did one I left the cradle in, pulled the composite spring and the 2 motor mount nuts and lifted the engine up by the crank pulley just enough he get the pan out.
This is the best idea I have heard yet. Pulling the spring is pretty easy and the motor mount bolts are easy to get to. As far as lifting by the crank pulley it looks like there is plenty of room to get a wooden block in the space and using a floor jack to raise it enough to clear everything. How far does it need to be lifted? there may be some interference issues on the top side, I don't want to cases any unintended damage.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by cmonkey713
This is the best idea I have heard yet. Pulling the spring is pretty easy and the motor mount bolts are easy to get to. As far as lifting by the crank pulley it looks like there is plenty of room to get a wooden block in the space and using a floor jack to raise it enough to clear everything. How far does it need to be lifted? there may be some interference issues on the top side, I don't want to cases any unintended damage.
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.
How does it work? Does the bar reach across the front fenders and rest on supports? Then attach the chains to lift bolts on the engine and turn the screws to raise or stabilize the engine. Nice tool if there was more information on exactly how it works.
Actually I'm thinking now it might not be a good tool for corvettes. It works great on cars with metal inner fenders but not sure how fiberglass ones would do
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.
I'm not saying it the best practice but has proven to work, I can't say it will or won't put pressure on bearing but thinking about how the damper pushes against the timing set that sits in front of the oil pump I don't think it will stress the bearings since everything is so tight together I doubt it really shifts but I could be wrong.
Actually I'm thinking now it might not be a good tool for corvettes. It works great on cars with metal inner fenders but not sure how fiberglass ones would do
Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
When you put the spring back in you will have to put clamps on lightly, lower the front tires onto 2x10s, then reach under and tighten clamps. The rubber bushings on the spring won't line up otherwise. GM uses a tool that preloads the spring for re-installation.
Today I pulled the composite spring and swaybar to see what the access to the pan is. Great access to all the pan bolts but I may still need to raise the engine by jacking up the harmonic balancer with a 2X6 and a floor jack to get enough swing room to get the pan past the front crossmember. I really don't want to lower the cradel because of the steering assembly components that may need to be removed. I will keep posting the progress on this.
The pan will not clear the lower portion of the bell housing using the wood block under the harmonic balancer. It hits on the crossmember not allowing the back of the pan to clear the bell housing. with the engine raised as much as possible it still looks like maybe 3/8" is still needed. Looks like the front cradle needs to be lowered a little to clear the crossmember and bell housing.
I wouldn't recommend that as you don't know how much damage you might be inflicting on the upper half of the crank bearings, since I'm pretty sure they weren't designed to support the full weight of the engine and then some.
To the OP'er, Kent Moore makes brackets that sit in the frame rails.
I found them on ebay for under a buck, those along with box steel tubing across the engine bay make this tack simple.