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So I discovered the O-ring seal around the thermostat flange was old and tired and was leaking coolant on my 2005, so a new thermostat and O-ring was installed. I've gone through a few hot/cold cycles and filled the expansion tank as necessary, but the temperature seems to vary a bit more than it did before draining and replacing with new OE parts. Is there a bleed port anywhere to let out any trapped air in the high points of the cooling system, or is the method just keep topping up the expansion tank?
Thanks in advance for any info!
Last edited by Red86Cfour; Oct 30, 2015 at 06:25 PM.
So I discovered the O-ring seal around the thermostat flange was old and tired and was leaking coolant on my 2005, so a new thermostat and O-ring was installed. I've gone through a few hot/cold cycles and filled the expansion tank as necessary, but the temperature seems to vary a bit more than it did before draining and replacing with new OE parts. Is there a bleed port anywhere to let out any trapped air in the high points of the cooling system, or is the method just keep topping up the expansion tank?
Thanks in advance for any info!
Best way for me has been removing the smaller hose near the top of the coolant tank. If it's already totally full of fluid then never mind...
If it isn't I've put a small amount of vacuum on it and it and sucked out a ton of air. The fluid level in the coolant tank itself drops fast as well every time I've done it this way. This connects to basically the top of the engine and top of the radiator, which are all places air can get stuck. Get that out and you'll have more fluid in.
The vacuum coolant filler things are on my to-buy list for sure. They are def. the best way to do it.
It's also possible the new thermostat isn't as consistent as the old.
Last edited by schpenxel; Oct 30, 2015 at 10:53 PM.
Yeah we have a tool like that at the shop and it works great. without though finding the highest coolant opening and letting the air out from there will really cut down the time. I found that unplugging the hose at the coolant bypass tube (head to head) while filling allowed the trapped air an easy way out. You good also siphon air out to speed up the job.
Last edited by rpmextra; Oct 30, 2015 at 11:05 PM.
Wish I had one of these!
What size air compressor will work on this? HP, Psi, tank size and SCFM?
I bet ya my little 155 PSI, 1.5 HP, 3 gallon 2.5 SCFM at 90psi will not work...
Wish I had one of these!
What size air compressor will work on this? HP, Psi, tank size and SCFM?
I bet ya my little 155 PSI, 1.5 HP, 3 gallon 2.5 SCFM at 90psi will not work...
most air tools for automotive repair are designed for 90-105psi. Our shop and my home unit is set to 120 no more. I've cranked it to 130 once to see if my impact would crack a stubborn bolt loose......it worked but doubt its any good for the air tools.
Just going on a whim, I think your Compressor is fine, the 3 gallon reserve is the only limiting factor but I think it would be ok. Air power framing nail guns use a lot of air and my Dad uses a small 2 gallon atm with no issues with his one man operation. I didn't think he could has I have an 80 gallon at home but I have a tire machine if you wanna see something need air it's that lol
Last edited by rpmextra; Oct 31, 2015 at 02:54 AM.
Ok cool thanks for all the info. I'll break the upper bleeder hose open from the expansion tank and see if I can suck air out. I have a mity-vak hand held brake bleeder that might work for this.
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Bleeding the cooling system question
absolutely the BEST way to fill cooling system to get ALL the air out. Fills cooling system in about 30 seconds.
