Hi Guys, I started a thread on this about a month ago.

A brief recap; 05' C6 Manual. Get in push the button and nothing. Tried 3 times, still nothing. AAA to the rescue. Flatbed to my Vette Mechanic and after 7 hours of diagnostic couldn't identify the problem. No charge for diag. time. Flatbed to Chevy, was told the column lock module bad, had it replaced, $1,200. Drove it home, next day no start, flatbed back to Chevy. They greased all the fuses that could be greased. Again it works, no charge. Next day, nothing again, back to Chevy. At the shop for 5 days. They found another module to replace then couldn't clear codes. Took entire dash apart and tracked ALL electrical and replaced negative cable. All of this work was on them, no cost to me Took it home and starts next morning and for 2 weeks until about 3 days ago. Pushed button and nothing, 3rd time it started. Good for a few days and no start yesterday. Disconnected the negative for about 10 minutes and it started. Later in the day no start and Column Lock message on DIC. I turn the steering wheel couple times and BINGO. WTF!!! Any ideas, suggestions. I wont be charged by Chevy to address this recurring problem.. Someone help me out PLEASE

 

Has the computer been updated?

Just a shot in the dark recommendation.

 

I'm pretty sure they did while clearing codes..... Is the steering column supposed to lock when ignition is off on a 05 C6? It's driving me to drink more than normal

 

Only on manual transmission. Do a search for column lock eliminator.

 

OK, Same this morning, no start.. Turn the steering wheel back and forth and it starts!!!!!! Monday to Chevy. I think I isolated the problem.... The column DOESN'T LOCK. Thought 05 is the last year they did..... Don't have to disconnect the negative battery cable

 

Great!

 

I'm going to Chevy on Monday and have THEM replace and pay for it. Thanks for the feedback. Is the Column lock on a 05 manual supposed to lock when car is off?

 

Yes.

 

That's what I thought..... I told them that at Chevy and apparently when in one ear and out the other. I'll write it on a Post It and stick it to his head on Monday.

Thanks again for your help and HAPPY NEW YEAR to ya

 

When you hit the start button do the gauges and all come on and engine just doesn't start or does it do absolutely nothing?

 

All the gauges do what they always do. Normally there is a wind up noise, a click then start. No wind up noise, gauges do they're thing and nothing. Today, nothing. Tried to turn the steering column and it locks!!! Then starts right up. It hasn't locked as long as I can remember. Thought it was supposed to lock after they replaced the module. WTF?

 

OK, I know I've probably beat this to death, BUT. New Yesterday got in pushed the start and nothing. I turned the wheel and it locked and started? That hasn't happened since I can remember. Through my day the car was turned on and off maybe 10 times with no problems. Now going to get a pizza, no start!!!! I'm hungry.. Damnnn. So I turn the wheel, no lock or start. Now barely anything happens at all. Makes me thing the battery drained? I don't have cables so couldn't try a jump. I know, need to get some cables..... Anyway, I'll disconnect the negative battery cable this morning and bring my still calm *** to chevy to tell them this car will be at the service door when it opens on Monday. I'll be talking directly to the foreman to explain everything that has happened through the last week or so. Maybe the issues change from the time I tell the service writer to when the Writer translates to the Mechanic. ANYBODY PLEASE!!!!! Any thoughts. Has anyone used a by pass module? What are the results? HELP!!!!

 

I don't know where to look for the info on the forum, but I remember something about a wire the runs down the steering column on '05's that wears and eventually shorts out and prevents starting. Turning the wheel moves the wire where it no longer touches and allows starting.
The cure is to replace the wire.

Rick T is the forum magician from Las Vegas who seems to be able to find anything in the vast amount of posts, so try contacting him if your searches can't find the info.

 

One of the battery cables ends was falling apart on mine and mine would randomly not start. Sometimes I'd hit the start button and everything would just turn off. Wiggle battery cable, everything comes on.. 50/50 on whether it would start

Sounds different than yours but just my experience.

I cut the factory ends off the battery cables and installed aftermarket ones. No problem since. Higher voltage showing on DIC and more fuel pressure.

edit:

I have the column bypass module installed on mine and the only time I get any issues is when the battery is almost dead I'll sometimes get a service column lock message. It goes away after turning off/back on

 

Haven't been able to find Rick T yet. I went to Chevy yesterday to tell my new Dealer family I'll be in Monday and want to talk directly to the shop foreman to explain what I've been experiencing. I'll bring up the wire possibility. Hopefully tomorrow will be the last time my baby has issues. I'll post any updates and appreciate any and all input

 

Now today the column locks and the car starts

 

The steering lock module controls the steering lock. So not only can the steering lock wear out (it's drive gears bind up), the relays in the steering column lock module can wear out as well. If the lock has been replaced, then they may need to replace the steering column lock module as well (it the black box that the steering column lock plugs into). Also, when they install the new column lock, did they de-bur the locking ring U slots that that lock plunger lock into?

This is the actual steering column lock itself,


The steering column lock module (that controls the lock) is the black box that the white ribbon is plugged into,



As for the steering lock in the locked position, it just fires the spring loaded plunger out, and until the wheel is turned to position the plunger with the U slot lined up in the place, the wheel is not lock yet.

Plunger is the on the bottom right in the the 4:00 slot.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-2005-a.html

Worst yet, when the motor goes to unlock the steering lock (pull the plunger back), if the wheel is turned and has the plunger wedges in place via the slot, the lock motor will time out before the plunger is unlocked from the locking disc with U slots.

Now to shove salt in the open wound, even if you have a fully charged battery at 13.7 volts/ all the wires are good from the battery all the way to the lock motor, buy the time the voltages gets to the steering column lock motor, it down to around 12 V to run the lock motor. If the battery is down to say 12.3 volts (again, with no wire problems between the battery and the lock motor), then the voltage to the lock motor is way under 11 volts, and just not enough power for the lock to work correctly.

And to put the nails in the coffin, If the lock module relays are worn out, and then not only is the voltage even lower to the lock motor, but the available amperage to drive the motor as well.



Bluntly the C6 05 M6 steering column lock is such a nightmare/POS, it was discontinued on the 06 model and forward.

So the solution once GM has replaced your steering column lock module to get the system working (will be short term and bank that the OEM steering column lock goes south again in a few years as the gears bind up) , lock the steering column lock in the unlocked position, unplug the steering lock connector from the steering column module, and plug in a steering column lock eliminator into the steering column lock module instead.

This is where you buy the eliminator,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111235442827?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

This is how you install it, and again, buy it from the link above on ebay!!!!


Hence the eliminator just makes the lock module think that the OEM problematic steering column lock is still in play: which is left unplugged and unlocked instead.

And no, the dealer will not install the eliminator for you, since they will just install the OEM products (over and over again as the keep going bad, and soon enough, on your dime instead). So let them get the system working on their dime with the new lock module/ battery-wring problems solved, then unplug the lock connector in the unlocked position and install the eliminator so you don't have to put the car back in the shop in a few years when the lock gears start binding again, and shell out the $1K for them to replace the steering lock again on your dime instead.

 

Thank you VERY VERY much for this info. By coincidence the lock is now engaging and the car starts right up. I'll pick up the eliminator and get it in following your U TUBE video. Thanks AGAIN

 

One of the first mods I did with my '05 was the bypass--works great. Also -just a though-because my Trans Am was not so touchy, I found myself not pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor thus causing a no start condition- I really have to peg that pedal to the floor. Maybe keep an eye out for that?

 

No worries, I myself, even with a working steering lock in my 05, have a elimintor in place (first thing I did before the steering lock had a chance of even thinking of going south). Why I look at it, when I go to sell the car, the new owner has the option of either having the steering lock working again (until is decides to gear bind up), or can leave it bypassed with the eliminator now in play.

One last thing, when you go to pull the dash gauge housing out of the dash, put a thing towel over the steering column housing cover so you don't scratch the top of column plastic housing cover with the bottom of the gauge cluster.