Radiator Install
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Radiator Install
Getting ready to install a Dewitts radiator with both right (auto trans cooler) tank and left (engine oil cooler) tanks. Have read many posts on the installation. Some guys remove and install the radiators from underneath the car. Some guys do the installation from the top working around the air conditioning condenser. My question is which way would you or did you do the installation and why? Note that I do not have a lift so installing from underneath the car means much rolling around on the garage floor! I assume either way will require another set of hands for assistance! 
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
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From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
I've done it out the top twice
One time I left the condenser in the car and one time I removed the condenser. It is much easier if you remove the condenser at the same time.. you can basically pull the fan/radiator/condenser as a complete assembly if memory serves.
Of course the bad part about that is having to re-fill the AC system afterwards
If you decide to leave the condenser in place it's usually easier to just break the slots on the radiator that the tabs on condenser sit in. There are 4 tabs on the condenser (I think anyways) that sit in 4 slots on the radiator. It's pretty tough to get all 4 of them out at the same time, especially working by yourself, so just breaking the slots on the radiator makes it go quicker and usually isn't a big deal if you're replacing the radiator anyways.
One time I left the condenser in the car and one time I removed the condenser. It is much easier if you remove the condenser at the same time.. you can basically pull the fan/radiator/condenser as a complete assembly if memory serves.
Of course the bad part about that is having to re-fill the AC system afterwards
If you decide to leave the condenser in place it's usually easier to just break the slots on the radiator that the tabs on condenser sit in. There are 4 tabs on the condenser (I think anyways) that sit in 4 slots on the radiator. It's pretty tough to get all 4 of them out at the same time, especially working by yourself, so just breaking the slots on the radiator makes it go quicker and usually isn't a big deal if you're replacing the radiator anyways.
Last edited by schpenxel; Jan 18, 2016 at 10:49 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 18
From: Chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '12
I replaced mine from the bottom on jack stands. I separated the fan from the radiator on removal. Before you install the Dewitt's, fit your factory fan, you may have to drill a hole in the plastic. I installed the Dewitt's radiator and fan separately. Manipulating the condenser is a pain, but the job can be done without releasing the refrigerant and removing the condenser. Get a spare brass t fitting for the hoses at the top (recent thread on this item with Amazon links), you may find that your plastic fitting breaks during the radiator install. I also replaced the petcock on the radiator with a brass plug.
If you are discarding the factory radiator then break the tab holding the condenser to the radiator. I think it's the one on the passenger side bottom that is the problem. Grab it with a pair of channel locks and twist.
If you are discarding the factory radiator then break the tab holding the condenser to the radiator. I think it's the one on the passenger side bottom that is the problem. Grab it with a pair of channel locks and twist.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 18
From: Chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '12
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
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I did the whole process from top.
I recommend to trail fit and drill a couple of clearance holes for match fit up before install for a more secure fit using OEM hold down bolts.
I also replaced the brass petcock with a one piece socket head cres plug.
Also recommend, passenger side, lower tab removed for a pain free removal. I used finishing wood trim saw to saw off tab, so not to damage surrounding plastic, my good condition used OEM radiator was subsequently resold:
I recommend to trail fit and drill a couple of clearance holes for match fit up before install for a more secure fit using OEM hold down bolts.
I also replaced the brass petcock with a one piece socket head cres plug.
Also recommend, passenger side, lower tab removed for a pain free removal. I used finishing wood trim saw to saw off tab, so not to damage surrounding plastic, my good condition used OEM radiator was subsequently resold:
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 217
Likes: 15
From: Miami Florida
Don't forget the rubber feet that come on gm rad, I forgot to put them on my new DeWitts when I did the top install. Top was real easy. Be careful with the valve on the bottom of the DeWitts. I tightened mine to much and it broke. I bought a brass plug, much better. No chance of that breaking or leaking.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
I had a new one installed this month at the dealer by a young tech.Old one out, and new one in and new hoses in 2 1/2 hours and he did recover my R34 (Not Needed) but it needed a recharge anyway. Removing it from the bottom would be a PITA
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; Jan 21, 2016 at 08:10 PM. Reason: change
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
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From: corpus christi Texas
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 18
From: Chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '12
Seems that I am in the minority. Removing and replacing the radiator and fan from the bottom on jack stands was not tough and the radiator support did not have to be removed. Did it twice this way and given the need, would probably do it this way again.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 297
From: corpus christi Texas
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 18
From: Chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '12
I separated the radiator hoses, the upper radiator support, condenser from the radiator, dropped the fan and then lift radiator up to free the two pegs on the bottom the radiator support, tilt lower portion of radiator towards rear of car and lower radiator. Plenty of clearance on the bottom to do this perhaps even with the fan attached. I did this the first time in zero degree weather in the garage on jack stands.
Last edited by kedar; Jan 21, 2016 at 09:04 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Yep. With the fan out of the way there's enough of a gap between the radiator cradle and whatever is closest on the engine side.. it will squeeze through there just fine. If the front end is way up in the air it's easier to go that way vs. trying to lift it up (especially working by yourself)
