CMY SIX

OK here goes got this week {weds on} off. I'm going to self install my cam,springs and seals{seats-retainers}. any tips you all have learned along the way? thanx Quinn

schpenxel

What's your setup now again?

rjacobs

Solid day to get everything apart. Solid day to put everything back together.

Both of these are more Z06 specific, but I would guess 95% applicable to any other C6.

I followed this DIY for the heads
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-headswap.html

Then I used a bit of this one for the cam:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-of-pics.html

Really not hard if you take your time.

Make sure you have the proper tool to re-install the balancer.

If you cant get your steering rack back in place you will need to bend the tabs on the passenger side of the cradle. Use a bolt with a few washers to spread it apart gently.

Change every gasket you remove.

You will most likely snap off the passenger side lower radiator to condenser plastic mount. I had to and most threads I read said the same thing. I messed with it for 30 minutes before breaking it off and the radiator came off the condenser in 10 seconds after that.

bagging every bolt like the first linked thread says has been a life saver when re-installing everything.

schpenxel

I just pulled the condenser/radiator/fan as a complete assembly the last time I had it apart. Made things way easier and faster, though obviously required a refrigerant recharge afterwards.

And for the steering rack I pushed mine towards passenger side wheel well to avoid having to take it totally off the car. I'd recommend using that method

Blk 08 C6

Take your time dont rush.double triple check your work.Slide the rack not that bad.while your in there pin the crank.you can do this.when done give yourself a pat in the back.

C6David

Make sure the o rings on the power steering lines that come off of the steering rack are accounted for. Had one that decided it wanted to explore things on the cross member when I removed one of the lines. Thankfully I caught it before reinstalling the lines.

Z06Brucey

No need to pull the steering rack. Just blast the two engine mount bolts off. Lower right side ball joint. Lower sub frame, jack up engine and balancer will become accessible. I do this all the time. I'll have cam swap done in about 5-7 hours.

schpenxel

That's a winner right there. Good to know.

MrJLogan

Make sure you have all the right tools to begin with.
A balancer puller
A balancer installer(I made one from threaded rod)
Valve spring compressor
a way to keep the valves from dropping if you're not removing the heads(I used rope method)
3/8 wooden dowels to keep the lifters from dropping
The tools necessary to do the trunion upgrade if, if you are doing it. I used the comp trunion tool and it worked great

Plenty of fluids to full everything back up
I used 3 gallons of coolant, make sure to have an extra quart of oil to cover the cam and the rest of the new parts when installing.

Be gentle when sliding the oil pickup tube back into the oil pump, make sure the o-ring is on the tube first, then slide it by hand into the oil pump until it's flush. You shouldn't have to force it, It should slide in fairly easily.

CMY SIX

I have the tools, I'm doing it in the drive way I have 5-6 days to do it, I see them taking the old valve seal off but it looks like a top hat, mine look just like the ones in the cup of oil, and I have a spring seat, I'm kind of lost on that one, I guess i'll figure it out when I do the first one, I love to do what Z06 BRUCEY says but I have to look and it first, don't know how to hold the car up if you drop the subframe, this was a base model. installing C5R chain, sprocket, oil pump,mild cam new springs and seals. some one want to take a drive to Alabama? LOL Schpenxel I'm listening to you too

schpenxel

For my new ones there was a lower retainer looking thing that went on first, then valve seal, springs, top retainer, locks. My originals were the top hat looking ones too.

I put the seal on without the retainer more than once then had to get the seals back off without damaging them. Don't do that!

Speedforhire

Just as others have mentioned; but here's a tip for prestart oil pressure. Once you get everything buttoned up and are ready to fire it off simply disconnect the coil pack mains and the motor will free spin as long as you push the start button.............then push the stop so it won't spin too long. It only takes a couple seconds. Then reconnect the mains and when it fires off you will have great oil pressure (provided you didn't damage the o-ring during installation).

CMY SIX

I believe I can just hold the gas pedal too the floor and that cuts the ignition and just cranks the motor

Joe_G

Notch the power steering reservoir bolt hole so you can get that hidden bolt mostly installed by hand then slip the reservoir in behind the bolt and tighten it. That front accessory bracket is the worst part of the job, and this will help. I think Jaysplay has a pic of it in his thread.

Joe_G

That cuts fuel to allow you to clear a flooded engine. Take the coil pack mains loose as suggested.

schpenxel

Agreed.. you can do both, but I wouldn't just do the pedal on the floor method. At least unplug the coils. It's two connections, nothing major.

Joe_G

Probably a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay too to keep the engine from adding fuel in case flooring it doesn't work.

CMY SIX

brought home my die grinder I will notch the power steering pump

schpenxel

Some wire cutters will snip out a section just fine also

Joe_G

Battery impact saves a ton of time...I don't use it to break things free but to zip them on and off. Even the Ryobi from Home Depot is great and strong if you do want to break some smaller bolts loose with it. Wobble extension is handy too.