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My AC works only sometimes. It used to work most of the time and lose function during track driving. This season it seams to work worse. Starting only a few times but mostly not.
Have checked the gas before and also have had it replaced. So that should be fine, as it works sometimes, could it be just the magnetic clutch and not the whole pump? But i guess that does not mather as I probebly only can be bought as a unit
Could be the clutch. Clutch can be replaced by itself, but don't do that. I did it and regret it. Now a year later I need to replace the compressor (making noise) and it will cost more in the end and will be twice the work.
Someone with the right equipment can force the clutch to be turned on/off... then watch the clutch while doing this and see if it's actually turning on and off when commanded.
My gf's car had a problem not long ago where the clutch gap was too large and after 20-30 mins of driving the clutch would stop engaging.
My other car had a similar problem like yours. So I used a stick (broom handle) to push start the a/c clutch and it would work. I fixed the air gap clutch by removing a small washer or spacer inside the clutch assembly and it cost me nothing. I'm sure if I took it to a dealer they would have sold me a new compressor and clutch for big bucks. I did this a few years ago and the a/c has been problem free.
Ambiant is always pretty okey as I live in Sweden. This week only about 68 deg F. Gone check the gap first. A new pump complete with clutch would about equivivalent of 500usd + cost of having gas removed and refilled.
Normal, since the A/C compressor is turned off during WOT, Plus A/C torque reduction/shut off as well when you are getting on the motor before WOT in the Vet too.
Hence the AC is OEM tuned in the ECM to work fine when you are cruising around for the wife's Sunday drive to take her shopping, but when you start pushing the vet motor hard, it's kicking off the A/C (compressor) to free up HP instead.
Such setting can be changed if push comes to shove, but most of use just push the button to turn the A/C off and fan up a little higher during track sessions, since the compressor is going to speed min time actual engaged instead.
Actually.... the factory tunes are set to disable the AC at 200% throttle or 7000 RPM's. I changed mine to 80% but the default has been 200% since at least 2005.
Perhaps there is something else that disables it that is not accessible in HP Tuners.
Actually.... the factory tunes are set to disable the AC at 200% throttle or 7000 RPM's. I changed mine to 80% but the default has been 200% since at least 2005.
Perhaps there is something else that disables it that is not accessible in HP Tuners.
So what your saying is the ac will shutoff only @ 7k + rpm?
The other day on the way home from work with the AC on, I ran through the gears and in second I gave it a good shot to maybe 5K, I thought the ac might of cut off as the engine seemed to come on stronger, so I thought...
It's possible there is something else that turns the AC off at WOT that HPT doesn't have access to... but from what I CAN see in HPT, it only turns it off at 7K or 200% throttle, which obviously is something you'll never reach
It's tough to say--I'm not sure how much power the AC compressor takes to spin
My AC works only sometimes. It used to work most of the time and lose function during track driving. This season it seams to work worse. Starting only a few times but mostly not.
Have checked the gas before and also have had it replaced. So that should be fine, as it works sometimes, could it be just the magnetic clutch and not the whole pump? But i guess that does not mather as I probebly only can be bought as a unit
My C5 was plagued with that problem. Finally replace the connectors for the compressor and high pressure sensor switch. Never happened again.
Try running a separate 12v line for the compressor to check. Also, If it shuts off after coming on, you may not be getting enough air flow through the condenser and it spikes the head pressure and will shut off.