Over Heating!!!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Over Heating!!!!!
Ok so I have a 07 z and I just built a LSX 427 for it got it installed and now it heats up so bad I don't want drive the car anymore, I cannt even run the a/c for more then 10 mins then I have to shut it off its hard for me to say that bc I LOVE driving the car but I cannt get across town with out it getting hot yea it's been hot and yes there's a intercooler n front of the radiator but still! I thought about using that water wetter but I've heard it doesn't do anything if ur running aftifreeze! Idk please help thank u so much even to the ones that reply to help me get this resolved!!!!
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
So stock radiator/fan basically?
There are a ton of threads about this in the forced induction section.. you may try looking over there some too. D3PE makes a dual fan kit that moves a ton of air and something like a Dewitt's radiator will help too.
If Unreal can keep an iron block running cool in 110*F+ temps in Arizona then there's no reason you can't do the same with the right setup.
There are a ton of threads about this in the forced induction section.. you may try looking over there some too. D3PE makes a dual fan kit that moves a ton of air and something like a Dewitt's radiator will help too.
If Unreal can keep an iron block running cool in 110*F+ temps in Arizona then there's no reason you can't do the same with the right setup.
Last edited by schpenxel; Jun 15, 2016 at 03:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
So stock radiator/fan basically?
There are a ton of threads about this in the forced induction section.. you may try looking over there some too. D3PE makes a dual fan kit that moves a ton of air and something like a Dewitt's radiator will help too.
If Unreal can keep an iron block running cool in 110*F+ temps in Arizona then there's no reason you can't do the same with the right setup.
There are a ton of threads about this in the forced induction section.. you may try looking over there some too. D3PE makes a dual fan kit that moves a ton of air and something like a Dewitt's radiator will help too.
If Unreal can keep an iron block running cool in 110*F+ temps in Arizona then there's no reason you can't do the same with the right setup.
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Ask the question in FI section. Unreal will probably see it over there. He's running a brushless fan but I think the D3PE one actually flows more. I've been lucky and never had any temp issues so I'm running original radiator and original fan.
Idle ignition timing makes a difference too on something like yours but it's probably just not enough airflow
Also make sure the connector for the fan isn't melted or damaged. They are bad about melting
And lastly, I'm assuming the tuner has the fans at 90% fairly early and that hasn't helped?
Idle ignition timing makes a difference too on something like yours but it's probably just not enough airflow
Also make sure the connector for the fan isn't melted or damaged. They are bad about melting
And lastly, I'm assuming the tuner has the fans at 90% fairly early and that hasn't helped?
Last edited by schpenxel; Jun 15, 2016 at 04:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Ask the question in FI section. Unreal will probably see it over there. He's running a brushless fan but I think the D3PE one actually flows more. I've been lucky and never had any temp issues so I'm running original radiator and original fan.
Idle ignition timing makes a difference too on something like yours but it's probably just not enough airflow
Also make sure the connector for the fan isn't melted or damaged. They are bad about melting
And lastly, I'm assuming the tuner has the fans at 90% fairly early and that hasn't helped?
Idle ignition timing makes a difference too on something like yours but it's probably just not enough airflow
Also make sure the connector for the fan isn't melted or damaged. They are bad about melting
And lastly, I'm assuming the tuner has the fans at 90% fairly early and that hasn't helped?
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
hate to ask? do we know the thermostat is working? did we try another? water wetter works with AF just works better with more water? can yo run 60/40 75/25 I went with 180 stat and water wetter about 60/40 Dewitts rad with internal oil cooler runs 174 going down the highway on a 100 degree day, first time I thought something was wrong. is it burped?
Last edited by CMY SIX; Jun 15, 2016 at 07:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
hate to ask? do we know the thermostat is working? did we try another? water wetter works with AF just works better with more water? can yo run 60/40 75/25 I went with 180 stat and water wetter about 60/40 Dewitts rad with internal oil cooler runs 174 going down the highway on a 100 degree day, first time I thought something was wrong. is it burped?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 534
Likes: 33
From: Southern cali
Ok .. lets back up a minute... have you tried flushing the system for air pockets? that is one of the most common reasons corvette's overheat. I personally use a coolent system air purge tool.
next if you are confident there are no more airpockets, I would check to see if your fan is operational. Turning on your air conditioner should trigger your fan ON .. and NOT cause overheating. If the fan is not operating check first the connector on the passenger side of your radiator towards the bottom.. disconnect it and check for melting ( happens a lot )... no melting... check your fan relays.
still no luck... swap out your thermostat. these little suckers go bad often. next i would check and make sure the water pump is operational... inspect the belt ... look for leaks.. listen for weird noises.
I am willing to bet you have an airpocket btw.
next if you are confident there are no more airpockets, I would check to see if your fan is operational. Turning on your air conditioner should trigger your fan ON .. and NOT cause overheating. If the fan is not operating check first the connector on the passenger side of your radiator towards the bottom.. disconnect it and check for melting ( happens a lot )... no melting... check your fan relays.
still no luck... swap out your thermostat. these little suckers go bad often. next i would check and make sure the water pump is operational... inspect the belt ... look for leaks.. listen for weird noises.
I am willing to bet you have an airpocket btw.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
Good luck. It takes a lot to get a forced induction iron block to run cool. Start with the basics. Is it at idle or moving? If you maintain 70mph does it overheat or just low speed?
It's a combo of a ton of variables. I easily have $4k+ into cooling upgrades and it took a ton of trial and error to find what works.
It's a combo of a ton of variables. I easily have $4k+ into cooling upgrades and it took a ton of trial and error to find what works.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 261
From: Miami Florida
Just another and easy to do no cost, to get rid of air pockets best is to install a rear steam pipe but just for now remove about 1.5 quarts of coolant then remove the rear steam blocks add coolant till stars to dribble install steam blocks.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 227
Likes: 10
Don't know if you looked at this but I had a similar problem with heat. My mechanic friend removed the Edelbrock heat exchanger, condenser and radiator from the car and cleaned all the dirt, grime and crap that lives in the cooling areas. There was no air flow at all. Once cleaned and reinstalled, the car runs 30-45 degrees cooler. No problems with running the AC in 90 degree NYC heat.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Don't know if you looked at this but I had a similar problem with heat. My mechanic friend removed the Edelbrock heat exchanger, condenser and radiator from the car and cleaned all the dirt, grime and crap that lives in the cooling areas. There was no air flow at all. Once cleaned and reinstalled, the car runs 30-45 degrees cooler. No problems with running the AC in 90 degree NYC heat.
