Stripped caliper mounting threads
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
Stripped caliper mounting threads
Bought some C6 Z06 calipers from a fellow here on the CF and when I went to mount them I could not get a bolt to thread through the bolt hole. Mind you, at that time, the hole that was involved was one of the two on the left and it wasn't until I looked at all 8 did I realize the extent of the mess I had purchased.
I pressed these out of two of the calipers (came out fairly easily). Does anyone know:
1: what they are called?
2: if the threads are metric or SAE?
3: where one might purchase them?
As always, you guys have all the experience that is much appreciated.
Nick
BTW, I did a search and came up with nothing...
I pressed these out of two of the calipers (came out fairly easily). Does anyone know:
1: what they are called?
2: if the threads are metric or SAE?
3: where one might purchase them?
As always, you guys have all the experience that is much appreciated.
Nick
BTW, I did a search and came up with nothing...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
Have a ton of taps around, but no metric. Ironically a 1/2" SAE, NC threads through like it's SAE, but the hole is a bit bigger.
Is your suggestion to drill the hole to the next size and retap them?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Yep, nice mess, and why you want to wire brush off all the old Blue loctite off the M14x2x47 bolts before you re-install the bolts with Fresh blue loctite (242) isntead.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
Last edited by Dano523; Jul 2, 2016 at 05:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
So you guys know about making assumptions, well, those shavings like pieces of thread we not metal - they were the remains of Loctite. Pull a piece out of there and it crumbled.
Pulled out a small round wire brush, some WD40 and the original nut that I tried to use for the mockup, and lo and behold, all 8 of them came clean.
Live and learn - maybe this will help someone else searching around...
Many thanks,
Nick
Pulled out a small round wire brush, some WD40 and the original nut that I tried to use for the mockup, and lo and behold, all 8 of them came clean.
Live and learn - maybe this will help someone else searching around...
Many thanks,
Nick
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,360
Likes: 59
From: San Jose California
So you guys know about making assumptions, well, those shavings like pieces of thread we not metal - they were the remains of Loctite. Pull a piece out of there and it crumbled.
Pulled out a small round wire brush, some WD40 and the original nut that I tried to use for the mockup, and lo and behold, all 8 of them came clean.
Live and learn - maybe this will help someone else searching around...
Many thanks,
Nick
Pulled out a small round wire brush, some WD40 and the original nut that I tried to use for the mockup, and lo and behold, all 8 of them came clean.
Live and learn - maybe this will help someone else searching around...
Many thanks,
Nick
I am glad your luck is better than mine.
DJ
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
Actually, the "if" was what cause me to eventually head out to the shop and check the reality. Originally, I was fearful of stripping the thread by trying to force the bolts I was using to make their way through, so I had to back off.
Thanks for that,
Nick
Thanks for that,
Nick
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
Yep, nice mess, and why you want to wire brush off all the old Blue loctite off the M14x2x47 bolts before you re-install the bolts with Fresh blue loctite (242) isntead.
It is good shop practice to thoroughly cleaned disassembled components before reassembly to prevent mishap.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
In this day and age, USPS's small Flat Rate Box is less than $6 - even for us here in Hawaii. If....you are so willing to "^^^" - whats $6 more!? By the way, what type of SS and what HRc you would use for this application?
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
It is good shop practice to thoroughly cleaned disassembled components before reassembly to prevent mishap.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
In this day and age, USPS's small Flat Rate Box is less than $6 - even for us here in Hawaii. If....you are so willing to "^^^" - whats $6 more!? By the way, what type of SS and what HRc you would use for this application?
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
Another point, inter relationship between fastener/component when tighten, the predetermined stretch under specified torque, induced stretch tension is what held the assembled fastener/component together - not Loctite 242. Once threaded portion on a fastener is damaged.....whether damage is associated with brake system or any other - engineered integrity is compromised just the same...but do or believe what you want....
Nice, glad you got it figured out!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
Yeah, kind of embarrassing - mostly because I couldn't be sure the bolt I was using was the correct bolt.
But re the above, if that's the case, what's the point of using Loctite?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
This is a good explanation:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...wy38Gp8cdGePmQ
More reading pleasure - an alternative to the once popular 242:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...nI_TNf6VkAVeqA
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 493
Likes: 24
From: Peoria IL
welp... nevermind I just realized what actually happened. It's not stripped, the damn thing turned in the caliper and the flat they machine on it actually cut the material away from the caliper itself. So now the bolt and threaded spacer just turn.
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 108
From: On the coast North of SF bay
welp... nevermind I just realized what actually happened. It's not stripped, the damn thing turned in the caliper and the flat they machine on it actually cut the material away from the caliper itself. So now the bolt and threaded spacer just turn.
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
You could always drill a hole or two into the side/space between the two and then force a pin or two into the holes...
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 493
Likes: 24
From: Peoria IL
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 203
From: Lexington South Carolina
welp... nevermind I just realized what actually happened. It's not stripped, the damn thing turned in the caliper and the flat they machine on it actually cut the material away from the caliper itself. So now the bolt and threaded spacer just turn.
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
looks like I should start shopping for a caliper.... FUUUUUU
Racer
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 493
Likes: 24
From: Peoria IL
the only way I can see to remove to caliper is cut the bolt head off and slide the rotor and caliper off as a pair. Or somehow pin the bushing while the it's still on the car and see if I can get the loctite to bust loose.
neither sounds like fun. And I'm guessing the bushing is still screwed up.
Navigator
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Please help
Yep, nice mess, and why you want to wire brush off all the old Blue loctite off the M14x2x47 bolts before you re-install the bolts with Fresh blue loctite (242) isntead.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
To bad your not local, or I could just machine you up a new set in SS in a few mins and heat treat/temper them instead.
Check around with your local group, and anyone with a lathe and mill should be able to make you new inserts as well. Hence, its faster to just make new ones, then it is to hexi-coil the old ones isntead.
Note, run a tap through them (14x2) and see just how well the threads clean up. Although the bolts are torqued to 125ftlbs, if its just a spot or two in the thread over all that is a problem with a small section of tooth missing, should still work since the bolt does get close to a full embed over all, and it's the 242 that will hold them in place once it dries.
I know this is a super old thread but i need these inserts, the powder coat company threw mine out by mistake and they are impossible to find anywhere. I would be more than willing to pay handsomely if you were able to make me a set of these. Please PM me it wouldn’t let me send you a direct message.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 363
Likes: 95
From: Savannah GA
McMaster has all kinds of inserts that can repair the threads.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/th...ed-inserts-3~/
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/th...ed-inserts-3~/