BIGMAC

I know this issue has been addressed before but I am hoping for some new ideas. I have a 2012 GS with an ECS blown 416 Stroker at the top of the list of mods. The transmission is built by Century to supposedly 1000 RWHP and runs a Pro Torque 2600 stall converter. The car has a Dewitts radiator with dual Spal fans. In the mid 90 degree Florida heat the coolant temps are OK at around 200-205 degrees in steady state cruising. The issue is the trans temps run 5-10 degrees hotter at around 205-210 at steady state. The car has a B&M Hi-Tech trans cooler with a fan mounted under the left headlight and the trans fluid in plumbed through the radiator. My tuner/builder has checked the transmission tune multiple times and assures me it is OK. He has cut ventilation holes in the wheel well liner and in the pan under the cooler. The left side fog light in front of the trans cooler remains in place. Trans cooling lines have been isulated where they pass near exhaust components and the exhaust pipes next to the transmission have been heat wrapped. I would like to get the trans temps down to 190 degrees or less or about 10-15 degrees below where they are now. I would welcome suggestions as to what other actions could be taken. Thanks in advance.

irok

remove the driving light and install black painted aluminum mesh in its place.it actually looks better than the light with mesh installed in my opinion.if you can find the aluminum mesh it easily conforms to the shape of the light opening and you can use the light bolts to fasten it.just did this on mine Friday and waiting on parts to plumb and wire it.friends car maintains 175F mounted in grill opening without fan being connected and not using rad tank either.his car in cooler air actually gets too cold. trany temps drop to 130F.I will use the fan on mine without rad tank and hoping to see same temps.it will get lots of air through light opening.had to relocate horns and BOV to get cooler to fit.check the 2 trans threads posted lately in forced induction.one car has coolers in both driving light openings with black out mesh covering.looks factory

realcanuk

Agree with the mesh. It definitely helps with airflow to the cooler. I would also bypass the rad. I have the same cooler, with rad bypassed and trans temps stay ridiculously low.

DOUG @ ECS

By pass the radiator.

TKOGTO

I spent more time and money on lowering trans temps than any other issue in making car run reliably on the track. Started with the B&M you have mounted on inside of left fender plumbed thru the rad. Everyone one of them a mistake. After attempts to get more air to and away did not provide enough relief, I mounted B&M in area vacated with fog light removal. Still no good. Removal the fan was the last straw.

Lost the B&M and got 2 Setrabs, one in each fog light area, plumbed out of the rad. Finally, reasonable temps, 210 - 215 max during 20 - 25 minute sessions. Ambients in the mid-high 80s and above with humidity kicks that up to 225 - 230. I do run the car hard. Every lap I am trying to set a PB, shifting ~6,100.

HOXXOH

Two coolers and bypass the radiator. Add a 180* inline t-stat to make sure temps aren't too low.

CMY SIX

go to 75% water 25% anti-freeze and 11/2-2 bottles water wetter 100 degree day I go down the highway at 174{180 tstat} and 190 oil tempos

PegasoLS3

I have a built 6l80e by Century too with all the best parts they provide. With an FTI3600 converter, with this Texas heat it used to get up to 190-210 fairly quick using a B&M cooler.

I then used a trans cooler I had used in my old 800rwhp Turbo truck, a Tru-cool 40k and made it fit, wasn't too hard. Bypassed the radiator. Now temps hardly go above 150F. 70% of the time when just driving and sitting in traffic its at 132-140F in 100F+ weather. I daily the car (36k miles in one year). The highest I've ever seen it get was 168F in the summer time after 5 continuous back to back track passes.

This is how I mounted mines. Hope it helps. Its a massive cooler meant for trucks that tow over 10,000Lbs, so make sure you add more fluid to your trans if you decide to go this route, mines took about 3/4qt more.

BIGMAC

Doug,

Thanks for your reply. I love my ECS kit. Question. Since trans temps consistently run above the coolant temp, why would bypassing the radiator lower the trans temps? I would think the extra cooling capacity provided by the radiator would at least keep the trans fluid temp to no more than the coolant temp.

BIGMAC

irok

the rad tank is for heat to get trans up to operating temp not so much for cooling.newer cars come from factory with trany heater for emmisions and to get trans up to temp quickly

el es tu

I run two hayden #678 coolers stacked on each other in front of the radiator and it stabilizes at around 160-170 degrees during hard driving where it would have passed the 200 mark in the past (this setup still uses the rad cooler 1st just to warm up the fluid)



http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HDN2/678.oap

Privateeye007

Just checking to verify that this mix will get my temps down that much. I have a big whipple and a built 6l80e, and my temps are running too high especially under stress. I live where the temps stay pretty damn warm all year and the car stays inside when not in use, so antifreeze is not needed much. Thanks much WHAT TEMP THERMOSTAT ARE YOU USING?

PS. HAS ANYONE ELSE TRIED THIS MIX?