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I used this when I changed the valence on my previous car:
...The right tool would be much better and I really see the beauty in rivnuts though. Threaded holes in all the things.
That's basically what I did except luckily had a bearing rather than that bigger nut. Those riv nuts seem to be for 1/4 plate rather than sheet metal so need to be sucked down a lot. Regardless, I'm glad it's done.
Now just looking for alternates to taking a sledgehammer to my radiator
Blower discharge pipe would align better if I rotate the blower about 5-10 degrees clockwise. Easy enough to do, just wondering if there are any gotchas I don't know about, like voiding the warrantey
Just did some measurements to select a blower belt and wondering about max rotor speed on the Novi.
Rough measurements show the stock HB = 7.25", I'm 10% over drive bringing it to 7.975". Blower pulley is 3.250". Gear ratio of Novi seems to be 3.5 (rough measurement)
So.....7.975 / 3.250 * 3.5 * 7000RPM = 60,119 RPM and I think the Novi max is 55,000.
And then there's the question of how much boost will be generated running the blower at 60k RPM and what blows up first, the blower or the bottom end of the motor.
Thanks, but those are ECS only part numbers and I'm not getting the warm and fuzzy feeling from them. Going to measure it and get a Bando or Gates belt locally while I'm out picking up a dowel pin to pin my crank.
BTW. Where was your dowel pin in the kit? Mine is mysteriously gone so I must have thrown it out with the Riv nut installer. I'm thinking of using the drill bit when I'm done drilling, just grind the end off it and beat it into the hole with a hammer.
EDIT: Not sure if the pin was a few tenths oversize though. I might even drill it .2495 and ream it to .250 and use a actual .250" pin if I can find one. I would imagine that .250" drill leaves a pretty nasty hole
I think it was with the bolt and adapter that you use to drill the hole in the right spot. It was a snug fit but I don't remember having to hammer it in or anything like that
It wasn't all that long, maybe 1/2" or so roughly?
Also didn't go super deep. Went through 4-5 drill bits, and spent hours drilling the crank. Got a little over 1/4" in I think and said **** it, good enough. Stock cranks drill like butter, an aftermarket crank (calles dragon slayer) did not want to be drilled. Amazing the difference.
Crank is keyed and has a key in the balancer anyways, so crank pin is just secondary anyways. Could have just ignored it but balancer already had the hole so figured why not.
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Originally Posted by NJ_phil
Thanks, but those are ECS only part numbers and I'm not getting the warm and fuzzy feeling from them. Going to measure it and get a Bando or Gates belt locally while I'm out picking up a dowel pin to pin my crank.
Those are Napa part numbers, which is a Gates belt? You're always better off picking up a belt locally just so you save in the shipping costs. They are typically stocked part numbers.
Those are Napa part numbers, which is a Gates belt? You're always better off picking up a belt locally just so you save in the shipping costs. They are typically stocked part numbers.
Thanks Doug. Typed in that number to my browser and the only supplier coming up was ECS
Yes they get pushed on. I used a socket to push them on
Thanks.
I used a big enough socket to go around the spring and put forces on the outer shell so not to misform the seal. Banged it down with a spare crank bolt. Works like a charm.
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