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So I get in the car to put it in gear while I lock the crank bolt down and accidentally spun the wheel without the rack attached. Noticed it goes 6 turns total, so I'm thinking go to the "stop", go the other way 3 times, then it should be "centered. I know the wheels and steering wheel were centered before I broke it down,.
LOL. Thanks. And thanks for hanging with me today for quick answers and psychological support...you too Unreal. Gotta get a good belt, running a 4 rib since that's all they had at AutoZone, do some other minor BS. Hit the throttle till I saw boost starting to come in and the freaking thing is really responsive and climbs quick but gotta put the scanner on it and see what's going on
Damn, this was supposed to be a winter project and I'm done already.
I'm hoping the clutch will last for a season of getting beat on. The car has under 3,000 miles but I know it can't handle the HP. Not sure if this is the correct thinking but I like the clutch as the weak point for now. A better clutch puts more strain on the trans, rear and the viscous cycle begins. Just not sure if the clutch blows "gracefully" and might damage other stuff when it does go.
Short term plans are a rear/trans brace, safety loops for the half shafts so if, rather when the go, they don't take out more stuff. I'm hoping the trans brace will let me keep the stock input shaft on the trans but need to read up on that more. Won't go the 15" wheel and drag spindles and keep my CCW 19s. Half shafts are going to be needed, just not sure if I need the Level 5s and such from DSS and need to look into that. All I want is a single digit pass and I'll be happy. Really looking forward to understand how to tune this thing and that should be a lot of fun too.
Then again, seeing Unreal's short block picture got me itching for a .080" over, stroked and forged LS7 but the wife would kill me if that happened
I'd leave it alone for a while... gets expensive fast once you start beyond what that blower will do.
I've seen people say C5 half shafts are actually really good pieces, depending on whether they'll fit yours. I don't know the details of how many splines different years have, etc. But that's something worth looking into.
I'd leave it alone for a while... gets expensive fast once you start beyond what that blower will do.
I've seen people say C5 half shafts are actually really good pieces, depending on whether they'll fit yours. I don't know the details of how many splines different years have, etc. But that's something worth looking into.
. I've heard C5s were better than earlier C6s but something changes in the C6 around 2010...maybe beefed up axles or joints? not sure
First putt around town. Running in stealth mode (NPP on). Wanted to see if the computer could trim it out before digging into it. Noticed IATs about 220f which seemed high considering it's in the 50s here and the 160f thermostat is in, possibly the intercooler blocking airflow???. No nose on the car yet either, I'll enable fans to turn on lower and see what happens. Love the air coming out the BOV. LOL
I've had good luck pulling a little vacuum on the steam vent hose that connects to the expansion tank when trying to get air out
That works, I also pull the steam line while filling until the coolant gets up that high, plug it back in. then once the system stops taking coolant, start the car with the cap off, and keep adding as it warms up.
Ran the car with the cap off during a few tune and test runs and temp running about 180-190. Now cap is on and under pressure, should be fine. No leaks anywhere, took of my safety 3 rib belt and installed the 6 rib and it's good to go. Idle tuning is done and it likes 850 RPM and holds +-25 RPM but some annoying flare at startup, notice a big injector pulse at the key so will try to reduce that. LTFTs within 3% in closed loop so that looks pretty good too. Had 3 trouble codes but accidentally cleared them with that stupid OBD gauge before reading. Pretty sure one was 1601 because no alternator belt, not sure about the others.
Car sounds super healthy especially with the NPP closed off. Quiet, but you can tell something is going on under the hood
Can pick these up for a little over $1,000. Most say they are good for 1000hp, but manufacturer states 850. Level II. Thinking these + Trans brace + safety loops and I can safely beat on it until hitting a 1.7 60ft time.
What year is your car? I believe 2009 and up are different. If its 2008 or down I would just use C5 axles. Many putting much more power then you are through them without issue. Just avoid wheel hop and they wont break.
2012. Ive also heard differences between C6 model years. Believe me, I don't want to spend the money if I don't have to and willing to wait until they fail. Just don't want them to take anything out if/when they do go. The car is soft and squats nice so a trans brace, low psi in the NT05Rs should not hop
