Shock Replacement
appreciate any insight and help. this is my daily for about another year or so... dont mind a little stiffer right
Lots of folks have done the Bilsteins and seem to be happy with those too.
appreciate any insight and help. this is my daily for about another year or so... dont mind a little stiffer right
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
**edit, dang it... just realized that next weekend me and gf are doing turkey day with her mom and dad before they head out of town, then the next week is turkey day with my family (along with going to the cowboys game). may be a couple weeks before i get a chance to get them on
Last edited by Travlee; Nov 11, 2016 at 03:20 PM.
I'm wondering what is involved when swapping out the stock magnetic-ride shocks (tied into the system traction system) when going with these after market options that clearly aren't going to tie into this system?
I have a 2008 base coupe, though have installed the JOC sway bars front and back.
I have a 2008 base coupe, though have installed the JOC sway bars front and back.
The F55 shock simulators run about $200 for the set.
However, if you have a friend with a Tech2 (or dealer hookup), you might be able to get it tuned out cheap or free.
Personally, I would rather have it disabled in the computer versus using the simulators to trick the computer into thinking the F55 shocks are still there. But that’s just me.
The F55 shock simulators run about $200 for the set.
However, if you have a friend with a Tech2 (or dealer hookup), you might be able to get it tuned out cheap or free.
Personally, I would rather have it disabled in the computer versus using the simulators to trick the computer into thinking the F55 shocks are still there. But that’s just me.
you might be able to help me with the bushings
Last edited by Travlee; Nov 17, 2016 at 08:39 PM.





You re-use the bracket off the stock shocks, but nothing else.
With the DRM Bilsteins, you will have a bag of 2 bushings, 2 washers and a nut with each shock in each box. You will also have 2 separate bags in one of the boxes with 8 poly bushings from DRM.
Set aside the 2 bushings that come in the Bilstein bag, you won't need them. The 8 bushings from DRM are of two varieties - 4 each. One has a female end and one has a male end. They "fit" together, so it is easy to tell them apart.
So for each shock, you need two of the poly bushings that fit together, two washers from the Bilstein bag and the nut.
For the rears: Take the rubber band off the end of the shock bolt. Then slide one of the washers on the bolt, with the "open" end (concave) facing towards the end of the bolt (up away from the boot). Then slide the male ended bushing up to the washer, with the smaller male part facing towards the end of the bolt (up). It will kind of fit inside of the washer. Then the bracket goes over the bolt. Then the female bushing and finally the last washer, this time with the female end "down" and the "concave" part of the washer down. Then you tighten the nut over the whole operation. You will need to hold the bolt in place with a hex to tighten the nut.
So the order is Washer-bushing-bracket-bushing-washer-nut. It should all fit together nice. The male bushing will slightly push through the bracket and fit into the female bushing. So with the rear shocks, you assemble the whole shock off the car, then bolt it back on.
With the front shocks, the bracket is basically the car, so you put the first washer and bushing on the shock, same as the rears, then install in the car. Then the top bushing and washer and nut are installed from inside the engine bay. Enjoy holding the bolt in place and tightening the nut inside the engine bay! Such a treat....











