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Shock Replacement

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Old Nov 18, 2016 | 11:03 AM
  #21  
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For what it's worth, I greased my poly bushings before install. Poly bushings like to squeak if they're dry, and you don't want to find this out the hard way. Also, watch the squeeze factor when tightening.
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Old Nov 18, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #22  
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thanks for the tip, will throw some marine grease on there
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Old Nov 18, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #23  
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By the way, I used this tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20400-U.../dp/B000CO88C6 to remove the existing shock nut from the shock. It makes life ALOT easier on removal of the front shocks. You have to hold the bolt in place while removing the nut, and this tool fits over it perfectly and makes life a hell of a lot easier.

You won't be able to use it on re-installation as the nut supplied by Bilstein is slightly bigger than the existing nut and this tool won't fit over it. So for reinstall I just held the bolt with a suitably sized hex (the end of the bolt will take a hex) and wrenched the nut on.

Compress the bushings so that they smush out to about 1/16" from the edge of the washer. So the bushing will not be wider than the washer, but close to as wide.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 01:54 PM
  #24  
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How much are the bushings supposed to pooch... this is what it looks like under its own load in the air




Last edited by Travlee; Nov 25, 2016 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 04:32 PM
  #25  
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After re reading the thread, i backed them off and now this is what they look like with car on the ground


Last edited by Travlee; Nov 25, 2016 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 05:06 PM
  #26  
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1st pic was over-tightened. Last pic looks good.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #27  
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Kudos to Mordeth for help!
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 05:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
1st pic was over-tightened. Last pic looks good.
yeah i didnt like it, then i read the thread again. after i got one side looking right i counted threads and made them match

Originally Posted by AORoads
Kudos to Mordeth for help!
agree, Mordeth if you are ever in the Dallas area let me know... owe ya a couple beers.

one thing, the passenger side front sucked... but an articulating ratcheting box end made it easier

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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Travlee
yeah i didnt like it, then i read the thread again. after i got one side looking right i counted threads and made them match



agree, Mordeth if you are ever in the Dallas area let me know... owe ya a couple beers.

one thing, the passenger side front sucked... but an articulating ratcheting box end made it easier

That articulating ratcheting box end sure would have been useful when I did mine! I had to hold the inner bolt and then get barely quarter inch turns on my open ended wrench for that passenger side front nut. I like to call it my "special time" with the LS7. Same kind of fun when I did my rear tow hook.

Glad you got them in and I am interested in your feedback on how you like them. My car is still up in the air on my lift. Is your car lowered using the stock lowering bolts?
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 10:40 AM
  #30  
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i have never personally touched the lowering bolts, but think one of the previous owners did. one of the primaries on my headers hits on speed bumps, and when parked next to another z06 at work my front lip is noticeably lower than his. right now the fender lip is about an inch or so from the tire front and rear.

i am about to make an around the metroplex errand running trip, i will let you know what i think of them later today
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 07:06 PM
  #31  
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did about 2 hours driving on them today, can definitely tell they are a bit stiffer. when going at hwy speeds it is a smooth ride, but when you go over a bump/swell in the road the car doesnt feel as floaty, it feel more planted. going on a transition from a southbound hwy to a westbound one before i could take it about 80 mph but didnt like the way the rear acted, it felt loose... today when i took it at the same speed it felt better and in more control. some of it may be placebo effect, but there is a positive change and i would say well worth the money
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #32  
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Great!! Appreciate the feedback.
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 08:20 PM
  #33  
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Car should feel tighter with more road feel being transmitted.

A tradeoff for a street car, track warranted for sure.

With our roads I have passed on this change.
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 09:34 AM
  #34  
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so one thing i noticed lately, occasionally when going over bumps i hear a ping on what i think is the right rear. i am thinking it is the washer sliding up and down on the rod under the blue boot
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Travlee
so one thing i noticed lately, occasionally when going over bumps i hear a ping on what i think is the right rear. i am thinking it is the washer sliding up and down on the rod under the blue boot
When I installed mine and saw that washer, I feared the same thing. That washer just bouncing around, jingling and sliding at will on that rod under the boot. In my opinion it is a shitty design.

Apparently, that washer and the little c-clip it is there to prevent the bump stop from passing any further along the shock rod. The bump stop itself prevents damage to the shock if you hit a curb or go over a ditch or whatever and bottom out the shocks. Quite frankly, the OEM bump stop design is better.

I think you can move the bump stop itself to the top of the shock shaft, and that will hold the washer in place. I guess you could also just remove the bump stop entirely, along with that stupid jingling washer as well. I would only do this though if you aren't lowered and didn't fear bottoming out. I probably won't do this and will either accept this idiotic noise or attempt to move the bump stop to hold the washer in place.

I haven't heard this noise yet though, but then again I've only driven the car once since I installed the shocks. This snow is pissing me off, and will continue to **** me off for the next 3 months.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 09:51 AM
  #36  
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its not very bad, and only noticeable if you have the radio down. if for any reason i have to take the shocks down i might throw a little RTV on it to keep it from moving.

actually now that i think about it.... you could almost put a small piece of dynomat on it.. it would still move around but wouldnt have the clanking sound
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:13 PM
  #37  
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I like the idea of the dynomat. If I have that pinging noise I will try it. I am guessing that I will as on the track the windows must be down and I have the radio off and I am going over the rumble strips on a few corners.
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