About installing head/cam setup
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 14
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From: Istanbul
About installing head/cam setup
Hello guys, I have 05 C6(4L60E & rpm stage 4 diff 3.90) at almost 80k miles, It's full bolt on without cam/head, I would like to ask you guys If I can add a street ( or better without changing pistons etc. ) cam package to my car, can it damage to engine if it's install very well? I have suspicions about hurting the pistons and I dont wanna do it. Btw the engine is at good condition, I have done regular maintenances in right times. I am considering to buy level 2 head/cam package from the link below, should I or..;
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-2...07-c6-ls2.aspx
Could you guys please give me some advices about which package will be better safe and performance for me, my first priority step is getting the safest package. I will also buy fast102 and fuel rail kit. I am not a driver like wot all the time
I am open all suggestions, thanks a lot.
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-2...07-c6-ls2.aspx
Could you guys please give me some advices about which package will be better safe and performance for me, my first priority step is getting the safest package. I will also buy fast102 and fuel rail kit. I am not a driver like wot all the time
I am open all suggestions, thanks a lot.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
If you don't go overboard the cam specs, you won't damage the pistons. Any decent cam grind with less than 230* duration on the intake side and less than .600" lift should yield good results without worrying about piston to valve clearance.
If you're running the stock stall converter, you probably want to keep the overlap on the cam at or below 0 degrees. A wider lobe separation angle (LSA) and less duration will give you a better idle. Something with 218-224* duration on the intake, with another 4-8* on the exhaust and a ~114* LSA is usually a safe range for a stock converter on the LS2.
Your biggest challenge is going to be getting the tune sorted after the cam install, unless you have EFI Live or HP Tuners and can tune for yourself.
Your best bet is to contact a reputable shop that you've seen multiple good results from on this and other forums, and tell them what you want and ask them to put together a good package for you, with everything you need.
Good luck with your build. I know how difficult it can be trying to get the right parts when you're overseas.
If you're running the stock stall converter, you probably want to keep the overlap on the cam at or below 0 degrees. A wider lobe separation angle (LSA) and less duration will give you a better idle. Something with 218-224* duration on the intake, with another 4-8* on the exhaust and a ~114* LSA is usually a safe range for a stock converter on the LS2.
Your biggest challenge is going to be getting the tune sorted after the cam install, unless you have EFI Live or HP Tuners and can tune for yourself.
Your best bet is to contact a reputable shop that you've seen multiple good results from on this and other forums, and tell them what you want and ask them to put together a good package for you, with everything you need.
Good luck with your build. I know how difficult it can be trying to get the right parts when you're overseas.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Istanbul
If you don't go overboard the cam specs, you won't damage the pistons. Any decent cam grind with less than 230* duration on the intake side and less than .600" lift should yield good results without worrying about piston to valve clearance.
If you're running the stock stall converter, you probably want to keep the overlap on the cam at or below 0 degrees. A wider lobe separation angle (LSA) and less duration will give you a better idle. Something with 218-224* duration on the intake, with another 4-8* on the exhaust and a ~114* LSA is usually a safe range for a stock converter on the LS2.
Your biggest challenge is going to be getting the tune sorted after the cam install, unless you have EFI Live or HP Tuners and can tune for yourself.
Your best bet is to contact a reputable shop that you've seen multiple good results from on this and other forums, and tell them what you want and ask them to put together a good package for you, with everything you need.
Good luck with your build. I know how difficult it can be trying to get the right parts when you're overseas.
If you're running the stock stall converter, you probably want to keep the overlap on the cam at or below 0 degrees. A wider lobe separation angle (LSA) and less duration will give you a better idle. Something with 218-224* duration on the intake, with another 4-8* on the exhaust and a ~114* LSA is usually a safe range for a stock converter on the LS2.
Your biggest challenge is going to be getting the tune sorted after the cam install, unless you have EFI Live or HP Tuners and can tune for yourself.
Your best bet is to contact a reputable shop that you've seen multiple good results from on this and other forums, and tell them what you want and ask them to put together a good package for you, with everything you need.
Good luck with your build. I know how difficult it can be trying to get the right parts when you're overseas.
I' ll choose at least less grind 230*duration + less 600*lift for sure ( like the level2 setup from the link I posted ), And I'll consult reputable shops either as you said, yeah It's really important bc of I am such a far distance from shops.. Probably I can change the converter for a better durable setup, yeah I' ll tune it again after the setup, thinking about 12.6-12.7 value at WOT for being safe... Thanks a lot
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Istanbul
