Rear hatch button R&R
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 21
From: Austin TX
Rear hatch button R&R
NEVERMIND. FOUND ONE.
The outside rear hatch button on my 2008 ZO6 doesn't work. The one above the rear license plate.
Checked the fuses in the passenger foot well and they appear good.
Hatch will pop fine with the fob and with the dashboard switch.
I have read here that sometimes the button assembly gets corroded inside. I'd like to remove mine and check it. Is there a how-to write up on removing the switch? Didn't find one in a quick search.
Thanks!
The outside rear hatch button on my 2008 ZO6 doesn't work. The one above the rear license plate.
Checked the fuses in the passenger foot well and they appear good.
Hatch will pop fine with the fob and with the dashboard switch.
I have read here that sometimes the button assembly gets corroded inside. I'd like to remove mine and check it. Is there a how-to write up on removing the switch? Didn't find one in a quick search.
Thanks!
Last edited by TWS Racing; Nov 24, 2016 at 01:41 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Walk in the park.
Remove the inner passenger tail light, reach over and unclip the connector inside the fender cover, push the prongs in on the switch body, then push the switch outwards.
Note, wear long sleeve shirt, and take it easy since there a some sharp edges in the fender cover that can scratch you on the deeper side.
With the switch warm so the plastic is more pliable, pull the switch apart to give is parts a good electrical contact cleaner cleaning.
When you put the switch back together, use no lubes/keep all the parts bone dry instead. The switch will get dust in it over time, and any lubes just causes the switch to attract the dust just faster instead.
More detailed walk through and remember that you have to pull the lower part of the switch housing apart to get to the top contact points of the switch under the rubber button section.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html
Remove the inner passenger tail light, reach over and unclip the connector inside the fender cover, push the prongs in on the switch body, then push the switch outwards.
Note, wear long sleeve shirt, and take it easy since there a some sharp edges in the fender cover that can scratch you on the deeper side.
With the switch warm so the plastic is more pliable, pull the switch apart to give is parts a good electrical contact cleaner cleaning.
When you put the switch back together, use no lubes/keep all the parts bone dry instead. The switch will get dust in it over time, and any lubes just causes the switch to attract the dust just faster instead.
More detailed walk through and remember that you have to pull the lower part of the switch housing apart to get to the top contact points of the switch under the rubber button section.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html
Last edited by Dano523; Nov 24, 2016 at 02:11 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 66
From: Orlando Florida
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 21
From: Austin TX
I'm going to have to go deeper, per Dano523's post/thread link. I took the cover and button off and cleaned them to near perfection per that redlion link, and the switch still doesn't work.
I'll have to take her back out and completely disassemble to clean the contacts per Dano523's post.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 190
From: Austin TX
That's the one I found. Thanks!
I'm going to have to go deeper, per Dano523's post/thread link. I took the cover and button off and cleaned them to near perfection per that redlion link, and the switch still doesn't work.
I'll have to take her back out and completely disassemble to clean the contacts per Dano523's post.
I'm going to have to go deeper, per Dano523's post/thread link. I took the cover and button off and cleaned them to near perfection per that redlion link, and the switch still doesn't work.
I'll have to take her back out and completely disassemble to clean the contacts per Dano523's post.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
Just to make sure...you understand that the fob must be near the button in order for it to open the trunk, even if the car is unlocked???? 
Also, I put a small tab of tape over the keyhole to keep dirt out...easy to pull if I need to use the key.
Also, I put a small tab of tape over the keyhole to keep dirt out...easy to pull if I need to use the key.
Last edited by cclive; Nov 25, 2016 at 12:09 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Why buy a new switch over and over again every few years???
The switch is easy to pull apart, and is the copper section button on the bottom of the rubber section and the two contacts on the tip of the connector piece that just has to be cleaned instead.
Quick shot of contact cleaner and a Q-tip is all that is needed every few year to the actual contact areas of the switch, and about the same amount if time that a new switch is going to dust pack and would have to be replace if is was not just cleaned as well instead.
And if you want to know why the switch gets dirty/dust so quickly, as well the the back of the bumper cover and inside the bumper cover to, then just go to 1:20 of the below video. Hence nothing smooth about the air exiting from the under the car, and with the dead vertex of air, the back end of the vet actual slows the car down instead (increases the pressure wave on the air all the way back up to the front starting to flow across the car.
The switch is easy to pull apart, and is the copper section button on the bottom of the rubber section and the two contacts on the tip of the connector piece that just has to be cleaned instead.
Quick shot of contact cleaner and a Q-tip is all that is needed every few year to the actual contact areas of the switch, and about the same amount if time that a new switch is going to dust pack and would have to be replace if is was not just cleaned as well instead.
And if you want to know why the switch gets dirty/dust so quickly, as well the the back of the bumper cover and inside the bumper cover to, then just go to 1:20 of the below video. Hence nothing smooth about the air exiting from the under the car, and with the dead vertex of air, the back end of the vet actual slows the car down instead (increases the pressure wave on the air all the way back up to the front starting to flow across the car.
Last edited by Dano523; Nov 25, 2016 at 12:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 21
From: Austin TX
I already looked 'em up and have the link saved, but I figured it would be fun to see if I could get it working. Besides, want to play around with the cars while off work for Thanksgiving.
Last edited by TWS Racing; Nov 25, 2016 at 12:48 PM.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 21
From: Austin TX
Haha. Yeah. Well aware. I have a few C6Z's. Good piece of advice on the keyhole. Thanks.
Last edited by TWS Racing; Nov 25, 2016 at 12:50 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 462
From: Southern Utah
OK, good...just checking. And with the tape, I used electrical tape and just folded over the end a bit so that I can easily peel it back to use the key (really just to test the key once in a while) and then just stick the tab back down and it stays clean.