Help, head swap install
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Baton Rouge LA
Help, head swap install
I ordered some heads trying to decide if I will attempt the install and have questions for those that have done it. Sorry if these are stupid questions, trying to learn and do things for first time.
1) Do you need to open coolant drains on both sides of block?
2) Do you need to remove both the alternator and power steering pump like I read for LS7?
3) after swapping heads how do you put coolant back in block since it will be empty and thermostat will be closed?
4) I plan on using GM bolts since I don't plan to go into heads again. GM bolts are supposed to come with a sealer already on threads. Is this sufficient for sealing?
thank you for help
1) Do you need to open coolant drains on both sides of block?
2) Do you need to remove both the alternator and power steering pump like I read for LS7?
3) after swapping heads how do you put coolant back in block since it will be empty and thermostat will be closed?
4) I plan on using GM bolts since I don't plan to go into heads again. GM bolts are supposed to come with a sealer already on threads. Is this sufficient for sealing?
thank you for help
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
I ordered some heads trying to decide if I will attempt the install and have questions for those that have done it. Sorry if these are stupid questions, trying to learn and do things for first time.
1) Do you need to open coolant drains on both sides of block?
No - drain the radiator from the petcock at the bottom and open the coolant expansion tank to allow it to drain into a container
2) Do you need to remove both the alternator and power steering pump like I read for LS7?
Anything attached to the head needs to be removed and if it is in the way and it makes the job easier then YES, I removed the Alternator when I did the heads on my Vette and loosened the PS bracket and just pushed it forward some - you will learn as you go and it is not as bad as it may seem at first
3) after swapping heads how do you put coolant back in block since it will be empty and thermostat will be closed?
You close everything up and put it in through the Coolant Expansion Tank - Drivers side
4) I plan on using GM bolts since I don't plan to go into heads again. GM bolts are supposed to come with a sealer already on threads. Is this sufficient for sealing?
I really suggest using a set of head studs, regardless it is not much more and they can be re-used if ever needed - ARP is the way to go, not too expensive and they are cheap insurance should you decide to go F/I or Nitrous etc.
thank you for help
1) Do you need to open coolant drains on both sides of block?
No - drain the radiator from the petcock at the bottom and open the coolant expansion tank to allow it to drain into a container
2) Do you need to remove both the alternator and power steering pump like I read for LS7?
Anything attached to the head needs to be removed and if it is in the way and it makes the job easier then YES, I removed the Alternator when I did the heads on my Vette and loosened the PS bracket and just pushed it forward some - you will learn as you go and it is not as bad as it may seem at first
3) after swapping heads how do you put coolant back in block since it will be empty and thermostat will be closed?
You close everything up and put it in through the Coolant Expansion Tank - Drivers side
4) I plan on using GM bolts since I don't plan to go into heads again. GM bolts are supposed to come with a sealer already on threads. Is this sufficient for sealing?
I really suggest using a set of head studs, regardless it is not much more and they can be re-used if ever needed - ARP is the way to go, not too expensive and they are cheap insurance should you decide to go F/I or Nitrous etc.
thank you for help
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
Thanks,Matt
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
When putting the coolant back in you want to "BURP" the system -
Do a Google search on burping a C5 or C6 Corvette coolant system and you will see exactly what to do - do not worry it is very simple to do and you can tackle this job with ease -
Just take your time and do not rush -
Get a large box, some masking tape, a marker, and zip lock baggies and tag and bag everything as you go and you will be succesful
Thanks,Matt
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 261
From: Miami Florida
Drain oil first as you want to start with fresh oil sense the sistem will be open ones heads are removed then drain coolant.
You need to drain the radiator I never drain the block just take rubber squeeze pump to lower the coolant a little.
Don't need to remove starter unless you are installing headers as well.
Alternator and p/steering pumps must be unbolted sense the bracket is bolted to the drivers side head.
Must remove water pump not the stat housing, when time to replace coolant remove the rear of the heads steam pipes blocks and fill radiator at the coolant reservoir filling reservoir to the top sense the hose filling the rad is near the top of the reservoir, fill till you see coolant stars to dribble out the rear of heads steam pipe holes, now all the air pockets are empty replace steam pipes blocks and proceed to fill up radiator.
I recommend using ARP head bolts sense they are reusable I know you have no plans on going back (but you will) ones you can do this you will make other plans then you'll be glad you did, also ARP comes with assembly lubricant which is what you must use to get the correct torque reading.
Head bolts don't need sealer just use ARP assembly lubricant under the head bolts head and on the tread to obtain correct torque reading.
You need to drain the radiator I never drain the block just take rubber squeeze pump to lower the coolant a little.
Don't need to remove starter unless you are installing headers as well.
Alternator and p/steering pumps must be unbolted sense the bracket is bolted to the drivers side head.
Must remove water pump not the stat housing, when time to replace coolant remove the rear of the heads steam pipes blocks and fill radiator at the coolant reservoir filling reservoir to the top sense the hose filling the rad is near the top of the reservoir, fill till you see coolant stars to dribble out the rear of heads steam pipe holes, now all the air pockets are empty replace steam pipes blocks and proceed to fill up radiator.
I recommend using ARP head bolts sense they are reusable I know you have no plans on going back (but you will) ones you can do this you will make other plans then you'll be glad you did, also ARP comes with assembly lubricant which is what you must use to get the correct torque reading.
Head bolts don't need sealer just use ARP assembly lubricant under the head bolts head and on the tread to obtain correct torque reading.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,821
Likes: 412
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Why remove water pump ? Not nessecary. Just go slow and as said document for replacement. Taking pictures is a good idea, and so easy with phones now.
Very important.....make sure head bolt holes are clean. I run a chaser in them and then blow them out with air.
Very important.....make sure head bolt holes are clean. I run a chaser in them and then blow them out with air.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,821
Likes: 412
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Don't waste money on the ARP thread chaser... its a rip.
You can make one by taking one of the old bolts and making 3 grooves the length of the threads. Works like a charm.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 190
From: Baton Rouge LA
St. Jude Donor '14, '16
OP one thing to keep in mind is the ground bolt on the back of the passenger head...don't want to get surprised by it when you go to lift the head off.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 24,035
Likes: 2,342
From: Gilbert AZ
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Baton Rouge LA
I read a few places that bolts go through water jacket abd need to be sealed or sealed or water will leak by bolts. Is this not true?
Drain oil first as you want to start with fresh oil sense the sistem will be open ones heads are removed then drain coolant.
You need to drain the radiator I never drain the block just take rubber squeeze pump to lower the coolant a little.
Don't need to remove starter unless you are installing headers as well.
Alternator and p/steering pumps must be unbolted sense the bracket is bolted to the drivers side head.
Must remove water pump not the stat housing, when time to replace coolant remove the rear of the heads steam pipes blocks and fill radiator at the coolant reservoir filling reservoir to the top sense the hose filling the rad is near the top of the reservoir, fill till you see coolant stars to dribble out the rear of heads steam pipe holes, now all the air pockets are empty replace steam pipes blocks and proceed to fill up radiator.
I recommend using ARP head bolts sense they are reusable I know you have no plans on going back (but you will) ones you can do this you will make other plans then you'll be glad you did, also ARP comes with assembly lubricant which is what you must use to get the correct torque reading.
Head bolts don't need sealer just use ARP assembly lubricant under the head bolts head and on the tread to obtain correct torque reading.
You need to drain the radiator I never drain the block just take rubber squeeze pump to lower the coolant a little.
Don't need to remove starter unless you are installing headers as well.
Alternator and p/steering pumps must be unbolted sense the bracket is bolted to the drivers side head.
Must remove water pump not the stat housing, when time to replace coolant remove the rear of the heads steam pipes blocks and fill radiator at the coolant reservoir filling reservoir to the top sense the hose filling the rad is near the top of the reservoir, fill till you see coolant stars to dribble out the rear of heads steam pipe holes, now all the air pockets are empty replace steam pipes blocks and proceed to fill up radiator.
I recommend using ARP head bolts sense they are reusable I know you have no plans on going back (but you will) ones you can do this you will make other plans then you'll be glad you did, also ARP comes with assembly lubricant which is what you must use to get the correct torque reading.
Head bolts don't need sealer just use ARP assembly lubricant under the head bolts head and on the tread to obtain correct torque reading.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,821
Likes: 412
From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
But be warned, if you don't clean out the holes, and blow them out you risk damage. If there is water (coolant) in them, which can happen when you remove the head, you risk cracking the block when re installing.
Last edited by realcanuk; Dec 9, 2016 at 12:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Baton Rouge LA
Thank you for the replies and input. I've read a few places of people draining the radiator but not worrying about draining the block of any coolant before removing the heads. Coolant obviously spills out when heads are removed this way. That would be easier but isn't that a little dangerous as far as spilling coolant into pistons/oil side? I realize oil will be drained and drain left open so theoretically the coolant could drain through and out bottom. Maybe if doing this way and pouring some fresh oil through engine to flush out any trace coolant through the bottom would be okay. Any thoughts?
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 190
From: Baton Rouge LA
St. Jude Donor '14, '16
Thank you for the replies and input. I've read a few places of people draining the radiator but not worrying about draining the block of any coolant before removing the heads. Coolant obviously spills out when heads are removed this way. That would be easier but isn't that a little dangerous as far as spilling coolant into pistons/oil side? I realize oil will be drained and drain left open so theoretically the coolant could drain through and out bottom. Maybe if doing this way and pouring some fresh oil through engine to flush out any trace coolant through the bottom would be okay. Any thoughts?
Rags and compressed air will dry them out fine though.