well guys, i got the diff replaced..everything is back in.. sealed and clean...but now i have another problem..

while the car was sitting... it got a flat tire...i dont know if thats causing a problem now..that i got it fixed...or maybe a fuse blew ..

im getting reduced engine power from i think P2128 acc pedal code..while i was changing the starter i removed the right header...there is one connector there that that goes down from the top of the intake(one on each side) .. after i put the starter back in, i restarted the car but forgot to reconnect that connector..(dont know if that caused the problem) the accelerator does work but barely(reduced engine power message).. maybe theres a pedal learn sequence that had to be done

and im getting check traction control system...i made sure the sensors were plugged in at the wheels..when i reinstalled the subframe..

maybe one of you guys went through something similar..any help appreciated..i was thinking i was finally going to get to drive my car...no dice..

 

Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes.

Won't cost you anything to try it.

 

i just disconnected it... i was checking connections ... and at the top of the acc pedal...the connector had a torn wire...earlier the kick panel was hanging low and i gave it a quick smack upward to pop the keeper into place...only thing i can guess is the sharp edge of the kick panel cut through it...

i resoldered and heatshrunk it.... letting it sit now...

what diagnostic tool would i need to be able to troubleshoot this...like reading voltages of the pedal..and running on board tests...

also is it possible to disable the damn traction control all together..

 

reconnected after 30 minutes ...same thing ...REDUCED ENGINE POWER and same code..p2128... can someone point me to possibly the procedure for testing voltages,grounds and shorts for the app connector and hybrid vehicle control harness ..

i would like to test the harness before i buy a new app... does the p2128 indicate that theres a short..

 

here is some BASIC info. on the Diagnostic Trouble Code, and you will more thn likely require a scan tool as well......................

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...-blake-griffin

 

ill check the connectors tommorow too cold and dark right now.. its possible that when the wire was cut by me hitting the knee panel it bent a connector internally,,,

funny thing is that if i put the pedal to the floor..then hit the start button, it crank but no run... so its getting full throttle signal... now im wondering if driving it with that wire cut..created a situation where the learn throottle procedure has to be redone.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

Can you recommend a scan tool ...or am i gonna need something like hp tuners

 

if theres anyone in san antonio..austin..new braunfels texas area, and you have a scan tool that will do what is needed, ill pay in beer,lunch and or of course green backs

 

whether i keep this one or get a different one...im going to own a c6....i get the feeling that im going to have to become very intimate with the workings of the corvette and to do so im going to need a tool... i found a friend selling his tech2... so once i have that ill be able to look at live data and better narrow down the problem...i moved a couple wiring harnesses and its got to be something like a damn connector.. im hoping anyway...

 

Is the Tac located behind the right fender

 

Why do you think it's P2128? The very first thing you have to do is confirm which codes are set. The powertrain 'P' codes can be accessed with any cheapo code reader.
P2128 can be caused by shorting together the wires to the accelerator pedal, so this makes sense, but you should probably see additional codes set as well. Again, you've got to retrieve the codes first.

 

2128 is the only code present... I tried erasing the code but it will not erase..maybe it's the code reader I'm using... Usually on my other vehicles when I erase a code.. The engine light will go out even if just for a minute.... The engine light is not going out at all when I erase the code..

 

Regardless, the code will clear itself after 4 ignition cycles if the problem doesn't come back. It sounds like the problem isn't fixed.

P2128 means that the signal from the second sender inside the gas pedal has exceeded 4.5V for more than 1 second. The normal operating range is 0.5V to "more than 2V," according to the service manual.

With the pedal unplugged, the second reference voltage (the white/black wire) should be 5V relative to both low references (the purple wire and the brown wire). The second sensor voltage (light blue wire) should be at 0V.

With the pedal plugged in, you should see something like 0.5V at the light blue wire, and if you push it down, it should sweep up to something like 2V.

 

with the acc mode on and the connector plugged in i got the following
F purple - ground
E light blue - 4.05 --wot .77 volts
D tan - 5v
C white/blk stripe - 5v
B dark blue- .46v --wot 2v
A brown- ground

the light blue one doesnt look right..but im not sure..

i went ahead and ordered a new pedal and connector to solder in just to elimnate the connector all together..

 

can someone point me to a pinout/voltages for the TAC connectors side .. for 2005
gonna pull the fender to check integrity/voltages of the app cable at the tac side..

its just crazy that from one day to the next this happened...the car didnt even move

 

I'm no help but I did have my accel pedal sensor go out on me a long time ago. It did exactly (or very close) to what you say: limp mode, no power, barely crawling, lot of lights on dash came on. Two sensors in gas pedal assembly. One or both were bad, or going bad. Replaced pedal assembly, problem fixed.

Per Torque posts above, it could be something you reconnected had an effect on the gas pedal---yes, strange but possible. Still, I'd go thru the full ck of everything that's a ground, wire or connection that you've touched and possibly left loosely connected or off completely. Torque's a good help/info.

 

Here is some info in the PDF file.
Also, pics of Pedal module pins and ECM connectors. They may be of some value.



ECM PINS



APP # Wire Color Wire # ECM PIN Description
23 WHT/BLK 1164 56 5V Reference 2
9 PPL 1272 23 Low Reference
13 DRK BLU 1161 29 APP Sensor 1 Signal
14 BRN 1271 30 Low Reference
15 LT BLU 1162 32 APP Sensor 2 Signal
16 TAN 1274 36 5V Reference 1

 

so by looking at that pinout...am i assuming correctly that the c6 does not have a separate tac module behind the fender well like the c5 did... im hoping today will be productive and i can at least rule out short and opens...

 

Correct. Everything goes through the Engine Control Module in a C6.
If you want the complete Color coded wiring diagrams for a C6, PM me your e-mail and I'll share it with you.

As per the previously attached PDF file,:
The ECM is the control center for the TAC system. The ECM determines the drivers intent and then calculates the appropriate throttle response. The ECM achieves throttle positioning by providing a pulse width modulated voltage to the TAC motor.

 

WOOOHOOOOOO

it turns out that someone had run a piggyback wire from the app2 wire at the app sensor(the wire i thought i had cut accidentally) a few days ago i was looking where that piggyback wire was going and there were some extra stereo wires hanging around that i was removing... i barely pulled on it..and it came out with a splice connector on the end... i didnt think anything of it at the time

so me and my son were tracing wires ...looking for the app 2 signal at the ecm side and absolutely could not find it...then we resorted to a continuity check of the app2 wire from the appsensor to the ecm and again ..nothing...so i thought i must be cut

but how... on the big harness connector behind the battery there was a crappily taped splice that i resoldered and heatshrunk...that was the piggyback back wire that i unwittingly removed earlier... so as soon as i touched the bare open end of the harness where the piggyback took its place...we got continuity...

so the previous owner was probly getting the reduced power thing and ran a piggy back to solve it...i soldered the harnes back to original condition and removed the piggy back wire... and voila... we wiggled the harness and stuff but goto no codes..time will tell...if the problem comes back from a bad harness connector...

but if it does...i sure as hell will not be running a piggyback wire...itll get a new better connector or ill rip the guts out of it and put in a new harness... i cant stand sloppy work..

i cant thank you guys enough for helping me out..sometimes its just a matter of me accepting the chit sandwich and then getting to work solving the problem..

question... is there a way to disassemble these connector housings..or a tool to pull the connectors out of the housing... or are they a one time slide and click in place type thing

 

To the OP.

The schematic that I posted earlier is for a 2006-2007 LS2.

The one below is for a 2005 LS2 which has different Pin # at the ECM



Also attached are the various ECM pin connectors for a 2005 C6 in PDF format