MORE PROBLEMS help please
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,349
Likes: 2,444
From: Eastern
WOOOHOOOOOO
it turns out that someone had run a piggyback wire from the app2 wire at the app sensor(the wire i thought i had cut accidentally) a few days ago i was looking where that piggyback wire was going and there were some extra stereo wires hanging around that i was removing... i barely pulled on it..and it came out with a splice connector on the end... i didnt think anything of it at the time
so me and my son were tracing wires ...looking for the app 2 signal at the ecm side and absolutely could not find it...then we resorted to a continuity check of the app2 wire from the appsensor to the ecm and again ..nothing...so i thought i must be cut
but how... on the big harness connector behind the battery there was a crappily taped splice that i resoldered and heatshrunk...that was the piggyback back wire that i unwittingly removed earlier... so as soon as i touched the bare open end of the harness where the piggyback took its place...we got continuity...
so the previous owner was probly getting the reduced power thing and ran a piggy back to solve it...i soldered the harnes back to original condition and removed the piggy back wire... and voila... we wiggled the harness and stuff but goto no codes..time will tell...if the problem comes back from a bad harness connector...
but if it does...i sure as hell will not be running a piggyback wire...itll get a new better connector or ill rip the guts out of it and put in a new harness... i cant stand sloppy work..
i cant thank you guys enough for helping me out..sometimes its just a matter of me accepting the chit sandwich and then getting to work solving the problem..
question... is there a way to disassemble these connector housings..or a tool to pull the connectors out of the housing... or are they a one time slide and click in place type thing
it turns out that someone had run a piggyback wire from the app2 wire at the app sensor(the wire i thought i had cut accidentally) a few days ago i was looking where that piggyback wire was going and there were some extra stereo wires hanging around that i was removing... i barely pulled on it..and it came out with a splice connector on the end... i didnt think anything of it at the time
so me and my son were tracing wires ...looking for the app 2 signal at the ecm side and absolutely could not find it...then we resorted to a continuity check of the app2 wire from the appsensor to the ecm and again ..nothing...so i thought i must be cut
but how... on the big harness connector behind the battery there was a crappily taped splice that i resoldered and heatshrunk...that was the piggyback back wire that i unwittingly removed earlier... so as soon as i touched the bare open end of the harness where the piggyback took its place...we got continuity...
so the previous owner was probly getting the reduced power thing and ran a piggy back to solve it...i soldered the harnes back to original condition and removed the piggy back wire... and voila... we wiggled the harness and stuff but goto no codes..time will tell...if the problem comes back from a bad harness connector...
but if it does...i sure as hell will not be running a piggyback wire...itll get a new better connector or ill rip the guts out of it and put in a new harness... i cant stand sloppy work..
i cant thank you guys enough for helping me out..sometimes its just a matter of me accepting the chit sandwich and then getting to work solving the problem..
question... is there a way to disassemble these connector housings..or a tool to pull the connectors out of the housing... or are they a one time slide and click in place type thing
That's great to hear that you got the issue solved. Last edited by 4SUMERZ; Dec 22, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 15,067
Likes: 4,757
From: Washington Township Michigan
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there are tools available that will allow you to remove the wire terminals from the connector housings............ most have screwdriver type handles with a small pin or flat blade to assist you in pushing the locking tabs out of position to allow removal of the terminal and wire
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 266
Likes: 24
From: san antonio texas
nice .... i was asking in case i start to get intermittent issues from my repair if this wire.. this way i can at least try to pull the pin out and replace one ..
so finally got to go for a ride... the only nagging thing is the sway bar joints are clunking..other than that its got a decent the ride ...has bark at idle..the exhaust drone is gone during off throttle and part cruise.....but it screams when you roll into it...so its pretty quiet until i want it to get loud..
its about 120hp less than my last go fast ...but i love the power band...it just doesnt seem to run out..cant wait to add some goodies..
thanks for all your help guys
so finally got to go for a ride... the only nagging thing is the sway bar joints are clunking..other than that its got a decent the ride ...has bark at idle..the exhaust drone is gone during off throttle and part cruise.....but it screams when you roll into it...so its pretty quiet until i want it to get loud..
its about 120hp less than my last go fast ...but i love the power band...it just doesnt seem to run out..cant wait to add some goodies..
thanks for all your help guys
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,502
Likes: 461
From: Southern Utah
funny thing is that if i put the pedal to the floor..then hit the start button, it crank but no run... so its getting full throttle signal... now im wondering if driving it with that wire cut..created a situation where the learn throottle procedure has to be redone.. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
