Please help!
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Please help!
Hey corvette forums,
I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2011 Chevy corvette Grand sport. I put all new injectors, msd wires, and spark plugs into my vette of what I thought was the problem. The problem I'm having here is when I start my car it idols rough and I tend to smell gas coming from out from underneath my car while it idles like this. Then the service active handling system and service traction services pops up across my dash board as well as the check engine light starts to blink off and on when I start driving down the road. It goes into limp mode cause it acts like it doesn't want to go into gear or something. The check engine light will go off for a bit then start to blink again off and on. Also, when the service handling system and service traction system comes up the traction control light pops up on my dash board and it just stays on the whole time while I'm driving. I would like to know what the problem is with this. I have 65k miles on my car. I hope you all please tell me what this problem I'm having. I really appreciate it.
Joshua
I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2011 Chevy corvette Grand sport. I put all new injectors, msd wires, and spark plugs into my vette of what I thought was the problem. The problem I'm having here is when I start my car it idols rough and I tend to smell gas coming from out from underneath my car while it idles like this. Then the service active handling system and service traction services pops up across my dash board as well as the check engine light starts to blink off and on when I start driving down the road. It goes into limp mode cause it acts like it doesn't want to go into gear or something. The check engine light will go off for a bit then start to blink again off and on. Also, when the service handling system and service traction system comes up the traction control light pops up on my dash board and it just stays on the whole time while I'm driving. I would like to know what the problem is with this. I have 65k miles on my car. I hope you all please tell me what this problem I'm having. I really appreciate it.
Joshua
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,338
Likes: 2,437
From: Eastern
Hey corvette forums,
I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2011 Chevy corvette Grand sport. I put all new injectors, msd wires, and spark plugs into my vette of what I thought was the problem. The problem I'm having here is when I start my car it idols rough and I tend to smell gas coming from out from underneath my car while it idles like this. Then the service active handling system and service traction services pops up across my dash board as well as the check engine light starts to blink off and on when I start driving down the road. It goes into limp mode cause it acts like it doesn't want to go into gear or something. The check engine light will go off for a bit then start to blink again off and on. Also, when the service handling system and service traction system comes up the traction control light pops up on my dash board and it just stays on the whole time while I'm driving. I would like to know what the problem is with this. I have 65k miles on my car. I hope you all please tell me what this problem I'm having. I really appreciate it.
Joshua
I'm having a bit of a problem with my 2011 Chevy corvette Grand sport. I put all new injectors, msd wires, and spark plugs into my vette of what I thought was the problem. The problem I'm having here is when I start my car it idols rough and I tend to smell gas coming from out from underneath my car while it idles like this. Then the service active handling system and service traction services pops up across my dash board as well as the check engine light starts to blink off and on when I start driving down the road. It goes into limp mode cause it acts like it doesn't want to go into gear or something. The check engine light will go off for a bit then start to blink again off and on. Also, when the service handling system and service traction system comes up the traction control light pops up on my dash board and it just stays on the whole time while I'm driving. I would like to know what the problem is with this. I have 65k miles on my car. I hope you all please tell me what this problem I'm having. I really appreciate it.
Joshua
Because there are so many, it would seem that it may be an electrical issue, as in a connector somewhere that may not be fully seated, or you have an ECM issue.
The only thing i can suggest is to disconnect the battery, then look at the BCM connectors under the passenger footboard carpet.
If a passenger tried to use the floorboard as a brake, then just maybe they have shifted those big blue connectors and some pins are not making a good connection.
With the battery disconnected, remove the blue connectors, check all the pins, put a bit of dielectric greae on them, and reconnect the connectors.
Just maybe, that will make asll those gremlins go away.
If not, then you can at least remove that area from your troubleshooting going forward.
Good luck
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; Jan 18, 2017 at 10:02 AM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
its throwing just one code P0201 injector circuit cylinder 1, then another few codes that are indicating misfire circuit and thinking that due to the car going into limp mode though.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
That is a lot of problems, and without actually being to get hands on, it's a crap shoot to troubleshoot so many problems.
Because there are so many, it would seem that it may be an electrical issue, as in a connector somewhere that may not be fully seated, or you have an ECM issue.
The only thing i can suggest is to disconnect the battery, then look at the BCM connectors under the passenger footboard carpet.
If a passenger tried to use the floorboard as a brake, then just maybe they have shifted those big blue connectors and some pins are not making a good connection.
With the battery disconnected, remove the blue connectors, check all the pins, put a bit of dielectric greae on them, and reconnect the connectors.
Just maybe, that will make asll those gremlins go away.
If not, then you can at least remove that area from your troubleshooting going forward.
Good luck
Because there are so many, it would seem that it may be an electrical issue, as in a connector somewhere that may not be fully seated, or you have an ECM issue.
The only thing i can suggest is to disconnect the battery, then look at the BCM connectors under the passenger footboard carpet.
If a passenger tried to use the floorboard as a brake, then just maybe they have shifted those big blue connectors and some pins are not making a good connection.
With the battery disconnected, remove the blue connectors, check all the pins, put a bit of dielectric greae on them, and reconnect the connectors.
Just maybe, that will make asll those gremlins go away.
If not, then you can at least remove that area from your troubleshooting going forward.
Good luck
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,338
Likes: 2,437
From: Eastern
Good Luck and report back.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Same problem but....
I have exactly the same problem tractiiin system and active handling also blinking check engine .. It shows misfire cylinder 1.... but here is the think .... if I disconnect the battery for about 10 min and then connect it back when I turn on the car acts normal.. no light on dashoard and work perfectly .. that' my concern if there is a off plug wire or any fuse the problem should persist after battery disconnected but no.... then the next day when start it the problem comes back... any ideas .. Imma try tonight what I just read here ... but i would like to know anymore ideas thanks guys... mine is a 2009 c6 auto 143 miles everything stock
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 765
Likes: 11
Cruise-In I Veteran
I would start by working on the CEL issue first: #1 Injector issue.
When the engine is running rough, pull the connector to that injector, see if the problem gets worse, or stays the same. If it stays the same, you are on the right track.
( If it gets worse, it could still be a weak injector, or you have other problems that need to be tracked down. But one step at a time...)
Run the car to temp, then check the resistance of the injector with an Ohm meter. Should be low teens (12 -15 Ohms, I think...don't have the info in front of me...) Then check against all the rest. If one or two are way off from the others, you have found the source of the imbalance.
After that, pull the injector and see if there are any drops of fuel on the tip of the injector. There shouldn't be. If there is, it could be clogged with something, or just weak.
Also try a noid light to see if there is a good signal to the injector.
Especially when the car is warmed up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
When the engine is running rough, pull the connector to that injector, see if the problem gets worse, or stays the same. If it stays the same, you are on the right track.
( If it gets worse, it could still be a weak injector, or you have other problems that need to be tracked down. But one step at a time...)
Run the car to temp, then check the resistance of the injector with an Ohm meter. Should be low teens (12 -15 Ohms, I think...don't have the info in front of me...) Then check against all the rest. If one or two are way off from the others, you have found the source of the imbalance.
After that, pull the injector and see if there are any drops of fuel on the tip of the injector. There shouldn't be. If there is, it could be clogged with something, or just weak.
Also try a noid light to see if there is a good signal to the injector.
Especially when the car is warmed up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Cruising
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Okkk
I would start by working on the CEL issue first: #1 Injector issue.
When the engine is running rough, pull the connector to that injector, see if the problem gets worse, or stays the same. If it stays the same, you are on the right track.
( If it gets worse, it could still be a weak injector, or you have other problems that need to be tracked down. But one step at a time...)
Run the car to temp, then check the resistance of the injector with an Ohm meter. Should be low teens (12 -15 Ohms, I think...don't have the info in front of me...) Then check against all the rest. If one or two are way off from the others, you have found the source of the imbalance.
After that, pull the injector and see if there are any drops of fuel on the tip of the injector. There shouldn't be. If there is, it could be clogged with something, or just weak.
Also try a noid light to see if there is a good signal to the injector.
Especially when the car is warmed up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
When the engine is running rough, pull the connector to that injector, see if the problem gets worse, or stays the same. If it stays the same, you are on the right track.
( If it gets worse, it could still be a weak injector, or you have other problems that need to be tracked down. But one step at a time...)
Run the car to temp, then check the resistance of the injector with an Ohm meter. Should be low teens (12 -15 Ohms, I think...don't have the info in front of me...) Then check against all the rest. If one or two are way off from the others, you have found the source of the imbalance.
After that, pull the injector and see if there are any drops of fuel on the tip of the injector. There shouldn't be. If there is, it could be clogged with something, or just weak.
Also try a noid light to see if there is a good signal to the injector.
Especially when the car is warmed up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
i checked the plug wire and all of them good....also I cha fed the spark plug and switch the coil to the 3th coil place .. and everything was the same .. what i notice is that when running engine i unplug 1 cylinder spark plug and the engine didn't change but when I unplug any other plug i can feel the engine difference.. So now I don' know if its the injector by itselft what is bad cause in the scanner only shows cylinder 1 missdire p0201... any comments ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 315
From: Bridgewater New Jersey
I've read on this forum that the wire from the alternator can cause misfires, since it's in close proximity to the spark plug, incidentally number 1 wire/coil. See if you can loosen the wire to the alt. and move it away from the coil and spark plug wire.
If you pull the spark plug wire off while running to test, there should be a absolute difference in the rpm, should drop and the engine should be shaking.
Worth a try..
If you pull the spark plug wire off while running to test, there should be a absolute difference in the rpm, should drop and the engine should be shaking.
Worth a try..
Last edited by extrapilot; Dec 6, 2017 at 07:34 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 765
Likes: 11
Cruise-In I Veteran
In response to your question, the reason the car runs better for a while after pulling the battery; it probably has to do with the physical waiting of the 10 minutes to cool off the injector or coil. That is why it is better to troubleshoot the components when they are warmed up.
Plus when you reset the ECM, the vehicle will run in Open loop for a while, thus fueling the engine a little richer than when in closed loop.