I have an 06Z with the stock Clutch master. I jutted missed the free GM 10 year replacement. Not a big deal as the part is only $95 and I would rather do the work my self.

I'm tired of the hard to get into 1st and Rev of my trans when its cold.
I'm on the fence as to do a new GM master or a Tick unit. I don't care about the money, its more about whats better for the long run. I search and get a a lot of info on both. Just want to see whats the best choice.

Will a new revised GM slave help with this?
Will the tick add the pedal effort?

 

I have a Tick.

 

If I'm not mistaken the Tick is adjustable, the GMs are not.. I can't believe Tick wouldn't make a better unit then the GM junk.
The trans not going into 1st gear would be the trans , not the master, as long as the clutch is fully disengaging..Mine is also tough to get into 1st sometimes when cold outside, nature of the beast...WW
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guys love the tick in the z06 section

 

Tick is ok. Had one in my car for 6+ years. That being said, it isn't some magic piece that fixes issues. If you are only having issue with 1st/R sounds like something else is acting up.

 

Issues with 1st and Reverse are actually one of the calling cards of a hydraulic system that is too weak to fully disengage the clutch, actually. This issue is one of the many that we designed our adjustable clutch master cylinder kits to fix. A good read on their development and what you can expect with one of our kits installed is here: http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html

To answer your questions directly, GeneSch, the biggest problem with the factory hydraulic system is that the OEM master isn't capable of flowing enough fluid to fully disengage the clutch. We see this with both OEM clutches and often with aftermarket clutches.

Our Master is capable of flowing a significant amount more fluid than the factory master, which is why we made it adjustable: you can fine-tune the amount of fluid your setup flows to exactly the amount of fluid your setup NEEDS to flow. We accomplish this by using a bigger bore Master Cylinder, which increases pedal effort as a side-effect (usually ~15%.) The pedal travel is often shorter than the pedal when using the factory master cylinder, as well.

We're not able to patrol the forums as often as we'd like to any more, but any of you having hydraulic issues are always welcome to call us at 336-719-0599 - our sales techs are just that, techs, and they've been there and done that when it comes to hydraulic issues. I'm confident that our guys will be able to correctly answer most any hydraulic question thrown at them!

 

Tick also makes one of the only clutch fluid bleeder extentions that doesn't eventually leak...Most of the others don't fit properly and leak within a year or two...Trust me on this.......WW
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Strange. I had a tick, it broke in 1/2 at the fitting. Replaced with a katech unit that was MUCH nicer quality.

 

Understand that the tick is just a metal tilton master cylinder, but slightly larger in ID instead.

Do to this, and the fact that the cylinder will throw more fluid with the same amount of pedal push as the old plastic master cylinder, the Tick unit has to be adjust with about 1/2" to 1" of deep pedal at the top; so you don't ever extend the slave and cause the clutch finger to bottom out with a full pedal to the floor push instead.

Also, the tick says to not run a clutch pedal assist spring, but since you do have the dead pedal range at the top of stroke, if you hit a big enough bump with the cruse on, the pedal will dance off the top pedal switch to turn the cruse off (the car thinks that you are pushing the clutch in).

So to combat this, you can either run a c5 assist spring on the pedal, or just install a linear return spring on the pedal isntead.


But to digress, when what the last time you did the ranger method change the fluid in the master cylinder.

 

Got sick of the "ranger" process and bought the Tick bleeder line.

 

Thank you all for the info. It is all helpful.

As of right now, the car shifts well when it is up to full temp. It is an 06Z with 20,000 miles. I get Zero creep when in gear, zero missed shifts on the street or the track. No gear grinds or clunks. I always wait till its nice and hot before I get aggressive. Its just really bad when its cold and better but aggravating when its up to temp. (1st/Rev)

I currently have a Mantic9000 Twin and New GM stock slave. Clutch has about 2,000 miles on it. The slave has about 100 miles. (I had a Hinnson remote bleeder and it started to leak due to hitting the frame) I replaced the slave when I took it apart to see what was going on and removed the bleeder all together. I just reach up and bleed it.

When I picked up the car in 2014 it had 7,500 miles. The fluid was black. I have been using the Ranger method sense then and it really has been spotless. ( completely flushed it with fresh fluid at clutch install and this past slave change.)

I have used Valvoline Dot 3/4. Maybe I need a different fluid? I was thinking sense the car is 11+ years old, Why not just change out the Master to the newer style GM but then though may just do the Tick.

I can do the GM upgrade slave first and if that doesn't help then Order a Tick style.
I may also be better off with a different clutch and trans fluid.