05 MN6 message shift into reverse HELP
Thanks again for posting. I see another wiring diagram another forum member posted, let me look at it.
bick
Jumper both connectors on the transmission with a paperclip or something similar and see what happens.
Unhooking the battery like that isn't enough. It has to see reverse in order to clear the message, even after the battery has been removed/reinstalled. Or at least that is my experience
If after jumpering the connectors it STILL doesn't shut off then let us know and I will try to dig up the wiring diagrams for the reverse signal.
Really would like to see the wiring diagram for the bottom switch wherever it goes for reverse signal.
Switch on order.
Thanks,
bick
it can get into a situation where it seems like things are out of sync...its really weird... but disconnecting the battey for a bit should the care of that...also i had to put the fob in the glove box slot
when i went through it ... even after i would disconnect the battery ...as soon as i reconnected it was in acc mode ... the acc would never shut down... it wasnt until i put a jumper in the connector to both connectors..that the acc mode was shut down when i reconnected the battery... i did end up buying a red top..(best thing i could have done)
check the connectors that hold the cable to the battery clamps..
i had a few corroded grounds .. its crazy how those things come to the surface when you have other unrelated problems..
when reconnect the battery .... is the acc mode already on and dic saying to shift to reverse.. be sure the jumper you are using to jump the connectors is big enough diameter wise...the connectors in the housings collapse and you may or may not jump the connection..
also it seemed like my steering lock would get out of sync with the ecm ...because it would not unlock... the few times that i was able to get it to do anything i could hear the column lock ..unlock..there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to it..
then when that stuff was working my immobilizer would not let the car start..i was pissed
it was crazy frustrating..
this is exactly what i did...not sure it will work for you
to adjust your shifter .. just put it in neutral..and loosen the bolt that clamps the shifter to the shift linkage..the retighten it..if it was misaligned ..when you loosen the bolt youll hear and see the shift linkage itself rotate (probly CCW)back to its neutral state.
1.disconnect the battery for a while i left it for 1 hour(dont close the door LOL)
2.disconnect both terminals..touch them together..(i used a 1 watt resistor across them to drain all the juice out of the system(not sure if that did anything)
3..make sure the shifter/linkage is adjusted right
4.close the doors and trunk
5.jump both connectors at the trans with a sufficient diameter wire....make sure you have a jump across the connectors(the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt need to be jumped..it is only an on or off deal, it has no feedback to the ecm)
6.charge the battery to make sure its completely topped off 100 percent
7.keep the FOB far enough away from the car that it cant sense it
8.reconnect the battery all tightened up(reconnect the battery charger)
when you reconnect the battery nothing on the dash should be on, the acc mode should be off just like when you park it and shut it down...let it sit with the battery connected for 30 minutes
9.get in ...
10.close the door
11.put the FOB in the slot in the glove box
12. it wont matter if its in reverse or not(sensors are jumped)..hit acc mode (down on the start button)and it should light up...i let it sit for 10 minutes just in acc mode because i did not hear the column unlock..after about 10 minutes for some reason the column unlocked finally(i have since did the column lock eliminator)
13. after that i hit acc mode again to shut it down...and it shut down..
14. after it shut down ... i went ahead and depressed the clutch and hit the start button and it started
my reverse lights were on...i disconnected the jumpers to see if i could reproduce the problem and it did reproduce the shift into reverse message..both of those sensors work together somehow i think
if you get it started and the shift linkage is adjusted properly but its still a bitch to get it into reverse..then your fighting the reverse lockout solenoid when it should be energized and pulled into its housing..when its energized its pulled back(i may be backwards on when its energized or not) to allow it to slide into reverse..when the cars in forward motion the voltage is removed so the solenoid can pop out(spring loaded) to block the reverse gate..it could be seized or just crapped the bed.. you can unscrew it to isolate that problem. the reason you have to use two hand to force it over into reverse is cuz its not energized .. im not positive but i think the two switches, the column lock and the reverse lock out play together somehow when starting the car.
i know that sounds like bullshit but i wrote it all down so i get some kind of rationality of it..my reasoning for letting it sit for those intervals mentioned was i thought so that maybe when the battery is reconnected even with the acc mode off.. the modules are doing something..checking systems..updating etc etc...im not sure..if it was doing anything or not. but i was hoping it would get unconfused if that makes sense
if jumping both connectors doesnt get the shift into reverse to go away...you have a different problem...rock auto has the two switches cheapest..
i really hope this helps you in some way boss
rick
when i went through it ... even after i would disconnect the battery ...as soon as i reconnected it was in acc mode ... the acc would never shut down... it wasnt until i put a jumper in the connector to both connectors..that the acc mode was shut down when i reconnected the battery... i did end up buying a red top..(best thing i could have done)
check the connectors that hold the cable to the battery clamps..
i had a few corroded grounds .. its crazy how those things come to the surface when you have other unrelated problems..
when reconnect the battery .... is the acc mode already on and dic saying to shift to reverse.. be sure the jumper you are using to jump the connectors is big enough diameter wise...the connectors in the housings collapse and you may or may not jump the connection..
also it seemed like my steering lock would get out of sync with the ecm ...because it would not unlock... the few times that i was able to get it to do anything i could hear the column lock ..unlock..there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to it..
then when that stuff was working my immobilizer would not let the car start..i was pissed
it was crazy frustrating..
this is exactly what i did...not sure it will work for you
to adjust your shifter .. just put it in neutral..and loosen the bolt that clamps the shifter to the shift linkage..the retighten it..if it was misaligned ..when you loosen the bolt youll hear and see the shift linkage itself rotate (probly CCW)back to its neutral state.
1.disconnect the battery for a while i left it for 1 hour(dont close the door LOL)
2.disconnect both terminals..touch them together..(i used a 1 watt resistor across them to drain all the juice out of the system(not sure if that did anything)
3..make sure the shifter/linkage is adjusted right
4.close the doors and trunk
5.jump both connectors at the trans with a sufficient diameter wire....make sure you have a jump across the connectors(the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt need to be jumped..it is only an on or off deal, it has no feedback to the ecm)
6.charge the battery to make sure its completely topped off 100 percent
7.keep the FOB far enough away from the car that it cant sense it
8.reconnect the battery all tightened up(reconnect the battery charger)
when you reconnect the battery nothing on the dash should be on, the acc mode should be off just like when you park it and shut it down...let it sit with the battery connected for 30 minutes
9.get in ...
10.close the door
11.put the FOB in the slot in the glove box
12. it wont matter if its in reverse or not(sensors are jumped)..hit acc mode (down on the start button)and it should light up...i let it sit for 10 minutes just in acc mode because i did not hear the column unlock..after about 10 minutes for some reason the column unlocked finally(i have since did the column lock eliminator)
13. after that i hit acc mode again to shut it down...and it shut down..
14. after it shut down ... i went ahead and depressed the clutch and hit the start button and it started
my reverse lights were on...i disconnected the jumpers to see if i could reproduce the problem and it did reproduce the shift into reverse message..both of those sensors work together somehow i think
if you get it started and the shift linkage is adjusted properly but its still a bitch to get it into reverse..then your fighting the reverse lockout solenoid when it should be energized and pulled into its housing..when its energized its pulled back(i may be backwards on when its energized or not) to allow it to slide into reverse..when the cars in forward motion the voltage is removed so the solenoid can pop out(spring loaded) to block the reverse gate..it could be seized or just crapped the bed.. you can unscrew it to isolate that problem. the reason you have to use two hand to force it over into reverse is cuz its not energized .. im not positive but i think the two switches, the column lock and the reverse lock out play together somehow when starting the car.
i know that sounds like bullshit but i wrote it all down so i get some kind of rationality of it..my reasoning for letting it sit for those intervals mentioned was i thought so that maybe when the battery is reconnected even with the acc mode off.. the modules are doing something..checking systems..updating etc etc...im not sure..if it was doing anything or not. but i was hoping it would get unconfused if that makes sense
if jumping both connectors doesnt get the shift into reverse to go away...you have a different problem...rock auto has the two switches cheapest..
i really hope this helps you in some way boss
rick
thanks for all of the details. I had tried most of your suggestions.
My new awitch came in and I installed it and reconnected proper connectors to proper switch. My bottom switch was bads. New battery, New CTEK 3300 charger/tender for 24 hours. Checked purple wire to solenoid and it was OK, reroutd away from dipstick tube, reinsulated it. Reinstalled exhaust pipe from manifold to x pipe that I had removed to get to the starter wiring. A bitch getting cat sensor rehooked and cap locked into place.
So rehooked Negative cable and car comes alive of course.
No green light, hit button anyway, nothing, operated clutch and green light comes on and car starts. 30 minute drive to check everything out. everything seems fine. repark on lift, put into reverse, emergency brake on. turn off and everuything does indeed turn off! Whew! Did not put tender on and will check out in the am.
Appreciate all of the posts and suggestions. And wiring diagram sent by forum member, all 145 pages! Hopefully someone else will be able to read and learn if it happens to them. Another post under general section for "Parking in reverse" also has some leads.
Thanks All !!!!!!!!
bick
Last edited by 1hander; Mar 20, 2017 at 09:52 PM.
My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?
I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?
Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?
I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?
Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?
I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?
Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
I was doing some spirited shifting yesterday so I'll take a look at the shift linkage. It would go into reverse and back up before I disconnected the battery.
Now that the battery has been disconnected the car will not start.
I noticed that it doesn't need to be in reverse to shut down with the wires jumped. That makes me wonder if we could jump the bottom plug permanently and get rid of the shift to reverse requirement.
I plugged the top plug back in and my reverse lights aren't coming on so I'm either going to pull the switches or check the shift linkage next.
I noticed that it doesn't need to be in reverse to shut down with the wires jumped. That makes me wonder if we could jump the bottom plug permanently and get rid of the shift to reverse requirement.
I plugged the top plug back in and my reverse lights aren't coming on so I'm either going to pull the switches or check the shift linkage next.
I pulled them both out and they tested ok when I pushed the ball in. But I found that I needed to jump the plug for the top switch when they were installed. I switched them around in the trans and then I needed to jump the plug for the bottom one.
At that point I ordered a new switch and once it arrived and I put it in the car was back to normal.
Thanks for the help guys.














