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05 MN6 message shift into reverse HELP

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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 07:37 PM
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solenoid.html
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 04:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LV2TOUR
Here is a wiring diagram of a 2005 C6 Manual transmission.
It may help


Thank you for posting. Reverse lights working just fine. this is the top switch on the C5 transmission. Bottom switch is the one I am looking for information for. As per earlier posts it "shuts down the electrical system" to prevent battery from running down. This is powered by the bottom switch. i have proved to myself that the bottom switch is inoperative, however I have proved the top switch does turn the reverse lights on and off when I shift to reverse. So I have plugged in the wiring lead from the bottom switch onto the top switch that is working. This did not solve the "shift into reverse" warning on the DIC. I do not see this wiring on your attached wiring diagram, or I am just too dumb to read!
Thanks again for posting. I see another wiring diagram another forum member posted, let me look at it.
bick
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 04:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
I haven't read every post so maybe this is a dumb question

Jumper both connectors on the transmission with a paperclip or something similar and see what happens.

Unhooking the battery like that isn't enough. It has to see reverse in order to clear the message, even after the battery has been removed/reinstalled. Or at least that is my experience

If after jumpering the connectors it STILL doesn't shut off then let us know and I will try to dig up the wiring diagrams for the reverse signal.
I have done this. I have proved top switch does operate the BU lights. have proved the bottom switch is inoperative, so trying to use top switch with the bottom connector installed. logically this should have worked and I believe sometime in this trek , it did. but now back to no start and immediately get the "shift into reverse" message in DIC. I have lift so can try this again, but? maybe a sequence thing.
Really would like to see the wiring diagram for the bottom switch wherever it goes for reverse signal.
Switch on order.
Thanks,
bick
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 10:58 PM
  #24  
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one lights up the reverse lights and it was my understanding the other is part of the column lock... i had the same problem for says.... when i jumpered both connectors to those two switches it fired up... also be sure your shifter alignment is good...if the alignment on your shifter is not right... it will no twist the shift linkage enough to trip the switches properly...mine is 05 mn6 too.

it can get into a situation where it seems like things are out of sync...its really weird... but disconnecting the battey for a bit should the care of that...also i had to put the fob in the glove box slot
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 02:47 AM
  #25  
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i forgot to mention .. both of my switches still functioned it seemed but the seal in them was crap and they filled with trans fluid...

when i went through it ... even after i would disconnect the battery ...as soon as i reconnected it was in acc mode ... the acc would never shut down... it wasnt until i put a jumper in the connector to both connectors..that the acc mode was shut down when i reconnected the battery... i did end up buying a red top..(best thing i could have done)
check the connectors that hold the cable to the battery clamps..

i had a few corroded grounds .. its crazy how those things come to the surface when you have other unrelated problems..

when reconnect the battery .... is the acc mode already on and dic saying to shift to reverse.. be sure the jumper you are using to jump the connectors is big enough diameter wise...the connectors in the housings collapse and you may or may not jump the connection..

also it seemed like my steering lock would get out of sync with the ecm ...because it would not unlock... the few times that i was able to get it to do anything i could hear the column lock ..unlock..there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to it..

then when that stuff was working my immobilizer would not let the car start..i was pissed

it was crazy frustrating..
this is exactly what i did...not sure it will work for you
to adjust your shifter .. just put it in neutral..and loosen the bolt that clamps the shifter to the shift linkage..the retighten it..if it was misaligned ..when you loosen the bolt youll hear and see the shift linkage itself rotate (probly CCW)back to its neutral state.

1.disconnect the battery for a while i left it for 1 hour(dont close the door LOL)
2.disconnect both terminals..touch them together..(i used a 1 watt resistor across them to drain all the juice out of the system(not sure if that did anything)
3..make sure the shifter/linkage is adjusted right
4.close the doors and trunk
5.jump both connectors at the trans with a sufficient diameter wire....make sure you have a jump across the connectors(the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt need to be jumped..it is only an on or off deal, it has no feedback to the ecm)
6.charge the battery to make sure its completely topped off 100 percent
7.keep the FOB far enough away from the car that it cant sense it
8.reconnect the battery all tightened up(reconnect the battery charger)
when you reconnect the battery nothing on the dash should be on, the acc mode should be off just like when you park it and shut it down...let it sit with the battery connected for 30 minutes
9.get in ...
10.close the door
11.put the FOB in the slot in the glove box
12. it wont matter if its in reverse or not(sensors are jumped)..hit acc mode (down on the start button)and it should light up...i let it sit for 10 minutes just in acc mode because i did not hear the column unlock..after about 10 minutes for some reason the column unlocked finally(i have since did the column lock eliminator)
13. after that i hit acc mode again to shut it down...and it shut down..
14. after it shut down ... i went ahead and depressed the clutch and hit the start button and it started
my reverse lights were on...i disconnected the jumpers to see if i could reproduce the problem and it did reproduce the shift into reverse message..both of those sensors work together somehow i think

if you get it started and the shift linkage is adjusted properly but its still a bitch to get it into reverse..then your fighting the reverse lockout solenoid when it should be energized and pulled into its housing..when its energized its pulled back(i may be backwards on when its energized or not) to allow it to slide into reverse..when the cars in forward motion the voltage is removed so the solenoid can pop out(spring loaded) to block the reverse gate..it could be seized or just crapped the bed.. you can unscrew it to isolate that problem. the reason you have to use two hand to force it over into reverse is cuz its not energized .. im not positive but i think the two switches, the column lock and the reverse lock out play together somehow when starting the car.

i know that sounds like bullshit but i wrote it all down so i get some kind of rationality of it..my reasoning for letting it sit for those intervals mentioned was i thought so that maybe when the battery is reconnected even with the acc mode off.. the modules are doing something..checking systems..updating etc etc...im not sure..if it was doing anything or not. but i was hoping it would get unconfused if that makes sense

if jumping both connectors doesnt get the shift into reverse to go away...you have a different problem...rock auto has the two switches cheapest..

i really hope this helps you in some way boss
rick
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 08:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1hander
i forgot to mention .. both of my switches still functioned it seemed but the seal in them was crap and they filled with trans fluid...

when i went through it ... even after i would disconnect the battery ...as soon as i reconnected it was in acc mode ... the acc would never shut down... it wasnt until i put a jumper in the connector to both connectors..that the acc mode was shut down when i reconnected the battery... i did end up buying a red top..(best thing i could have done)
check the connectors that hold the cable to the battery clamps..

i had a few corroded grounds .. its crazy how those things come to the surface when you have other unrelated problems..

when reconnect the battery .... is the acc mode already on and dic saying to shift to reverse.. be sure the jumper you are using to jump the connectors is big enough diameter wise...the connectors in the housings collapse and you may or may not jump the connection..

also it seemed like my steering lock would get out of sync with the ecm ...because it would not unlock... the few times that i was able to get it to do anything i could hear the column lock ..unlock..there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to it..

then when that stuff was working my immobilizer would not let the car start..i was pissed

it was crazy frustrating..
this is exactly what i did...not sure it will work for you
to adjust your shifter .. just put it in neutral..and loosen the bolt that clamps the shifter to the shift linkage..the retighten it..if it was misaligned ..when you loosen the bolt youll hear and see the shift linkage itself rotate (probly CCW)back to its neutral state.

1.disconnect the battery for a while i left it for 1 hour(dont close the door LOL)
2.disconnect both terminals..touch them together..(i used a 1 watt resistor across them to drain all the juice out of the system(not sure if that did anything)
3..make sure the shifter/linkage is adjusted right
4.close the doors and trunk
5.jump both connectors at the trans with a sufficient diameter wire....make sure you have a jump across the connectors(the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt need to be jumped..it is only an on or off deal, it has no feedback to the ecm)
6.charge the battery to make sure its completely topped off 100 percent
7.keep the FOB far enough away from the car that it cant sense it
8.reconnect the battery all tightened up(reconnect the battery charger)
when you reconnect the battery nothing on the dash should be on, the acc mode should be off just like when you park it and shut it down...let it sit with the battery connected for 30 minutes
9.get in ...
10.close the door
11.put the FOB in the slot in the glove box
12. it wont matter if its in reverse or not(sensors are jumped)..hit acc mode (down on the start button)and it should light up...i let it sit for 10 minutes just in acc mode because i did not hear the column unlock..after about 10 minutes for some reason the column unlocked finally(i have since did the column lock eliminator)
13. after that i hit acc mode again to shut it down...and it shut down..
14. after it shut down ... i went ahead and depressed the clutch and hit the start button and it started
my reverse lights were on...i disconnected the jumpers to see if i could reproduce the problem and it did reproduce the shift into reverse message..both of those sensors work together somehow i think

if you get it started and the shift linkage is adjusted properly but its still a bitch to get it into reverse..then your fighting the reverse lockout solenoid when it should be energized and pulled into its housing..when its energized its pulled back(i may be backwards on when its energized or not) to allow it to slide into reverse..when the cars in forward motion the voltage is removed so the solenoid can pop out(spring loaded) to block the reverse gate..it could be seized or just crapped the bed.. you can unscrew it to isolate that problem. the reason you have to use two hand to force it over into reverse is cuz its not energized .. im not positive but i think the two switches, the column lock and the reverse lock out play together somehow when starting the car.

i know that sounds like bullshit but i wrote it all down so i get some kind of rationality of it..my reasoning for letting it sit for those intervals mentioned was i thought so that maybe when the battery is reconnected even with the acc mode off.. the modules are doing something..checking systems..updating etc etc...im not sure..if it was doing anything or not. but i was hoping it would get unconfused if that makes sense

if jumping both connectors doesnt get the shift into reverse to go away...you have a different problem...rock auto has the two switches cheapest..

i really hope this helps you in some way boss
rick
Rick,
thanks for all of the details. I had tried most of your suggestions.
My new awitch came in and I installed it and reconnected proper connectors to proper switch. My bottom switch was bads. New battery, New CTEK 3300 charger/tender for 24 hours. Checked purple wire to solenoid and it was OK, reroutd away from dipstick tube, reinsulated it. Reinstalled exhaust pipe from manifold to x pipe that I had removed to get to the starter wiring. A bitch getting cat sensor rehooked and cap locked into place.
So rehooked Negative cable and car comes alive of course.
No green light, hit button anyway, nothing, operated clutch and green light comes on and car starts. 30 minute drive to check everything out. everything seems fine. repark on lift, put into reverse, emergency brake on. turn off and everuything does indeed turn off! Whew! Did not put tender on and will check out in the am.
Appreciate all of the posts and suggestions. And wiring diagram sent by forum member, all 145 pages! Hopefully someone else will be able to read and learn if it happens to them. Another post under general section for "Parking in reverse" also has some leads.
Thanks All !!!!!!!!
bick
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 09:46 PM
  #27  
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i figured that would fix it...glad you got it worked out... i love tech2... its awesome to be able to look at sensors and switches and be able to ell if its good or bad..no guessing..iys made me owning a used vette so much easier..

Last edited by 1hander; Mar 20, 2017 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 02:52 AM
  #28  
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I'm having this problem too. It just randomly happened when I got home today.

My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?

I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?

Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 03:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by j0nes
I'm having this problem too. It just randomly happened when I got home today.

My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?

I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?

Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
If your fuses are good then it's more than likely the reverse switch on the transmission... If you want to test it... Put a jumper wire into the connector that plugs onto the switch on the transmission... Also a possibility that the shift linkage has slipped and needs to be readjusted under the shifter boot...
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 06:05 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by j0nes
I'm having this problem too. It just randomly happened when I got home today.

My reverse lights aren't coming on though. Are they supposed to come on in accessory mode?

I verified that I have power on both sides of the fuse for the reverse lights. I guess my next step is to try and jack it up and get to the two switches on the trans?

Is there something else I should be looking at since the reverse lights aren't coming on?
Try running the car first before you go any further. The BCM controls a lot of these functions.
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 11:40 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 1hander
If your fuses are good then it's more than likely the reverse switch on the transmission... If you want to test it... Put a jumper wire into the connector that plugs onto the switch on the transmission... Also a possibility that the shift linkage has slipped and needs to be readjusted under the shifter boot...
Thanks. Is there more than one fuse I should check? The one for the back up lights is fine.

I was doing some spirited shifting yesterday so I'll take a look at the shift linkage. It would go into reverse and back up before I disconnected the battery.


Originally Posted by extrapilot
Try running the car first before you go any further. The BCM controls a lot of these functions.
Now that the battery has been disconnected the car will not start.
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 01:25 PM
  #32  
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Sounds like switch to me
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 03:01 PM
  #33  
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I jumped both plugs and it works like it's supposed to.

I noticed that it doesn't need to be in reverse to shut down with the wires jumped. That makes me wonder if we could jump the bottom plug permanently and get rid of the shift to reverse requirement.

I plugged the top plug back in and my reverse lights aren't coming on so I'm either going to pull the switches or check the shift linkage next.
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 03:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by j0nes
I jumped both plugs and it works like it's supposed to.

I noticed that it doesn't need to be in reverse to shut down with the wires jumped. That makes me wonder if we could jump the bottom plug permanently and get rid of the shift to reverse requirement.

I plugged the top plug back in and my reverse lights aren't coming on so I'm either going to pull the switches or check the shift linkage next.
I can confirm that my MY 2006 car needs to be running for the reverse lights to activate... hope this helps you...
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:14 AM
  #35  
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It turned out that my top switch was worn out.

I pulled them both out and they tested ok when I pushed the ball in. But I found that I needed to jump the plug for the top switch when they were installed. I switched them around in the trans and then I needed to jump the plug for the bottom one.

At that point I ordered a new switch and once it arrived and I put it in the car was back to normal.

Thanks for the help guys.
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