C6 base clutch
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Joined: May 2017
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C6 base clutch
I'm getting ready to pull the transmission on my 08 six speed to fix the 2nd gear syncronizer, so I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the clutch while I'm there. What are you guys using for replacement clutches in these cars? It is bone stock right now and will probably stay that way, but I could get a wild hair and decide to put a SC on it at some point.
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I'm getting ready to pull the transmission on my 08 six speed to fix the 2nd gear syncronizer, so I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the clutch while I'm there. What are you guys using for replacement clutches in these cars? It is bone stock right now and will probably stay that way, but I could get a wild hair and decide to put a SC on it at some point.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 15, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
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From: St. Louis Missouri
I just said this in another post, I've had the mindset of "get a clutch that will support the most power I'll likely ever make because I don't want to do it again". Both times I did that, I hated the clutch and either ripped it out, or hated driving the car because of it.
Multi-disk aftermarket clutches tend to chatter _and_ rattle. I haven't tried every clutch manufacturer, but I've tried a couple of the most popular and I didn't like them. I'm nearly convinced all aftermarket multi-disk clutches chatter. However, if you insist on getting a multi-disk clutch, I'd consider the Mcleod RST or some other clutch with organic disks.
The forum loves Mantic, Monster and Mcleod. All 3 of those manufacturers have happy and unhappy customers. They all make similar claims and I suspect they all drive pretty similar if you're comparing the same type of friction material on the disks.
Multi-disk aftermarket clutches tend to chatter _and_ rattle. I haven't tried every clutch manufacturer, but I've tried a couple of the most popular and I didn't like them. I'm nearly convinced all aftermarket multi-disk clutches chatter. However, if you insist on getting a multi-disk clutch, I'd consider the Mcleod RST or some other clutch with organic disks.
The forum loves Mantic, Monster and Mcleod. All 3 of those manufacturers have happy and unhappy customers. They all make similar claims and I suspect they all drive pretty similar if you're comparing the same type of friction material on the disks.
Last edited by Tech; May 16, 2017 at 04:16 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,433
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From: Bay Area CA
I just said this in another post, I've had the mindset of "get a clutch that will support the most power I'll likely ever make because I don't want to do it again". Both times I did that, I hated the clutch and either ripped it out, or hated driving the car because of it.
Multi-disk aftermarket clutches tend to chatter _and_ rattle. I haven't tried every clutch manufacturer, but I've tried a couple of the most popular and I didn't like them. I'm nearly convinced all aftermarket multi-disk clutches chatter. However, if you insist on getting a multi-disk clutch, I'd consider the Mcleod RST or some other clutch with organic disks.
The forum loves Mantic, Monster and Mcleod. All 3 of those manufacturers have happy and unhappy customers. They all make similar claims and I suspect they all drive pretty similar if you're comparing the same type of friction material on the disks.
Multi-disk aftermarket clutches tend to chatter _and_ rattle. I haven't tried every clutch manufacturer, but I've tried a couple of the most popular and I didn't like them. I'm nearly convinced all aftermarket multi-disk clutches chatter. However, if you insist on getting a multi-disk clutch, I'd consider the Mcleod RST or some other clutch with organic disks.
The forum loves Mantic, Monster and Mcleod. All 3 of those manufacturers have happy and unhappy customers. They all make similar claims and I suspect they all drive pretty similar if you're comparing the same type of friction material on the disks.
Cars with a cam and twin disc clutch will tend to rattle at idle.
Organic discs have a less chance of chatter, however will heat up quicker at the track.
If the car is tracked, ceremetallic discs are better choice.
With that said, my stock cammed organic twin disc Mantic does not rattle at idle or chatter.
OP: Whichever clutch you purchase, following the recommended break-in procedure.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 16, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,977
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From: St. Louis Missouri
Cars with a cam and twin disc clutch will tend to rattle at idle.
Organic discs have a less chance of chatter, however will heat up quicker at the track.
If the car is tracked, ceremetallic discs are better choice.
With that said, my stock cammed organic twin disc Mantic does not rattle at idle or chatter.
OP: Whichever clutch you purchase, following the recommended break-in procedure.
Organic discs have a less chance of chatter, however will heat up quicker at the track.
If the car is tracked, ceremetallic discs are better choice.
With that said, my stock cammed organic twin disc Mantic does not rattle at idle or chatter.
OP: Whichever clutch you purchase, following the recommended break-in procedure.
There are many people that have <insert any of the clutches mentioned in this thread> that say they don't chatter. But it doesn't take much searching to find people running the same clutch with chatter. Mantic organic clutches aren't that common, though. I suspect they are closer to RST and Monster LT1-S when it comes to noise. I think people ultimately learn to drive around the chatter in many cases (usually cerametallic).
Mantic, Monster, Mcleod, Spec, Centerforce, whatever... if the clutch is designed to handle a significant increase in horsepower or more abuse, without sacrificing pedal pressure, a degree chattering and rattling seems inherent. The more power or the more resistance to heat, the more noise and driving nuances.
Triple and quad disks are becoming more prevalent, so maybe those clutches with anti-rattle stuff and organic disks will make the nuances tolerable.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Bay Area CA
Doesn't have to be a cam'd car. My stock cam'd Z06 rattles at idle with two different multi-disk clutches. People with loud exhausts notice it less. Most people don't upgrade to twin disks with stock cams, so maybe it seems that it requires a cam, or maybe a cam just exacerbates it. At least in theory, that makes sense.
There are many people that have <insert any of the clutches mentioned in this thread> that say they don't chatter. But it doesn't take much searching to find people running the same clutch with chatter. Mantic organic clutches aren't that common, though. I suspect they are closer to RST and Monster LT1-S when it comes to noise. I think people ultimately learn to drive around the chatter in many cases (usually cerametallic).
Mantic, Monster, Mcleod, Spec, Centerforce, whatever... if the clutch is designed to handle a significant increase in horsepower or more abuse, without sacrificing pedal pressure, a degree chattering and rattling seems inherent. The more power or the more resistance to heat, the more noise and driving nuances.
Triple and quad disks are becoming more prevalent, so maybe those clutches with anti-rattle stuff and organic disks will make the nuances tolerable.
There are many people that have <insert any of the clutches mentioned in this thread> that say they don't chatter. But it doesn't take much searching to find people running the same clutch with chatter. Mantic organic clutches aren't that common, though. I suspect they are closer to RST and Monster LT1-S when it comes to noise. I think people ultimately learn to drive around the chatter in many cases (usually cerametallic).
Mantic, Monster, Mcleod, Spec, Centerforce, whatever... if the clutch is designed to handle a significant increase in horsepower or more abuse, without sacrificing pedal pressure, a degree chattering and rattling seems inherent. The more power or the more resistance to heat, the more noise and driving nuances.
Triple and quad disks are becoming more prevalent, so maybe those clutches with anti-rattle stuff and organic disks will make the nuances tolerable.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,977
Likes: 256
From: St. Louis Missouri
I will tell you with absolute certainty, I've never had a clutch that I didn't follow the proper break in procedure. I've often gone _longer_ than the required number of miles/clutch cycles and performed additional bedding techniques recommended by the manufacturer after the extended normal break in process had failed to produce a non-chattering clutch.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 86
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From: Indiana
I'm actually going through this whole process myself, though I had to fix a minor fluid leak on my transmission. I went with the OEM clutch, because my '05 is bone stock and doesn't need anything more than OEM. Plus, it was the most affordable clutch.
Here's what I replaced mine with:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-04-216
There's a matching Flywheel to go with it if you need a new one of those as well.
Here's what I replaced mine with:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-04-216
There's a matching Flywheel to go with it if you need a new one of those as well.
Last edited by Camaro4life18; May 17, 2017 at 01:12 PM.
