Ant-Man

My 05 went to a shop for some upgrades, with no lights/issues what so ever.

Upgrades were:

Blower w/flip drive
Head swap
Diff/trans swap(z06 tr6060/diff/axles)
Alky kit

When I got the car back I was informed some lights were on due to the dyno time and I have heard the same from other people, didn't think anything of it.

However I'm still trying to track down the issues I'm now having:

Service traction system
Service electrical system
Service ABS
Service column lock


Sometimes* my abs light is on.
Sometimes* is my traction control light on.
My TC on/off button does not work at all.

Things I have done:

Checked grounds
Replaced battery
(Going to) check alternator make sure voltage is good.


I'm pretty lost, PCM maybe? I don't really want to take it back to the shop because it took 6 months to get it done in the first place and it's quite a drive.

4SUMERZ

Just for the fun of it, disconnect the battery, then look under the passenger foot well at the "BLUE" Connectors at the BCM. Unconnect them, inspect for any damage, bent pins etc. If nothing is found, reconnect the Blue connectors, then reconnect you battery and see if those pesky alarms/codes are gone.
A seated passenger, if tey push too hard on the foot well carpet/backing, will slightly dislodge the connectors. This brings up weird codes, alarms etc, somewhat like you mention.

It's free to try, and it may just solve your issues.

Once you do reconnect the battery, you will have to re-index your windows (with the door closed)

Here is a pic of the connectors



If by chance, this get rid of the alarms, then use pencil erasers as spacers to prevent the floor board from hitting the connectors again by those foot heavy passengers

Here is a thread about the subject
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-gremlin.html
Good luck and report back if it works or not.

Unreal

Shop should make it right.

Could be anything. Bad plug, bad wire, incorrect wiring, bad ground, etc etc. Either start with the basics, or find a competent shop.

Ant-Man

Me and a friend are going through the car right now, I wouldn't trust the shop to do an oil change at this point. Nice guy but my cup of tea was sour.

CMY SIX

don't you think you should have found that out BEFORE the work?

Ant-Man

You really think with a big build like this I didn't? I even had a close buddy of mine who had nearly the same build recommend him.

Unreal

Do yourself a favor like most people around here, report his useless rude post, and then block him. He is the biggest useless troll on this site.

CMY SIX

I think it was a fair question, just because your limp wristed, don't pick on me. mommy mommy that bad man asked the question everyone else is thinking, oh he should be banned

speedz06

Im having the EXACT same experience. Dyno tune and Alky, fuel pump booster. Hmmm....
Except my car has been at the shop long time while they try to fix it. Since they are so busy they work on it then put it down for a week.
Im going to take the 2.5 hour drive tomorrow to see whats up. I think i better take it home and pull off the alky kit and see if it helps.
Those parts and the dyno tune are the only things that went on before the "service electrical system" message and now it wont charge when hot, swapped alternator and nothing changed. There is a service bulletin for the serv elect systm message but cant find it. The bulletin names a particular circuit.
If you find it before me pls let me know.
Thnx

Mordeth

Fair in what way? What value does your question bring to the discussion? What is the purpose other than to be a douche?

To the OP, I would follow the suggestions in this thread. One thing at a time should be checked. The connections under the passenger footwell. The battery. The plugs and wires. Sorry to hear about your trouble. Keep us posted.

irok

if you are using NGK plugs try factory ZR1 Iridium plugs.many on here have had issues over the years with "service electrical system" after installing NGK's.if "service electrical system" lights it may cause several other DTC's to set

speedz06

Ant...you had any luck? My shop is doing what they can but so busy they only put a day into it and then maybe it sits for a week. Funny if we have the same shop but doubt it.
I wont mention the shop because it isnt cool and they arent bad guys.

They see something that is causing the computer to either not tell the alternator to charge or it is thinking that it does not need to increase output. They are changing the pcm out but have clearly expressed that they arent parts changers and admit that this is not likely the issue....but want to try.

I already had a very tough time after installing the D3 fans but only after the BAP, Alky kit and dyno tune did I have the "service electrical system" message and the issue has gotten worse.
I had the mechman 240 amp alternator, idle boosted up to about 840rpm. I could blip throttle to keep it charging but was frustrating in heavy traffic.
Then the issue got worse as mentioned.
I dont see how you could have the same issue as coincidence. Anyone else have this?

The shop changed alternator but put the original back on since nothing changed.

The only difference is that my car may have more draw than yours. Meziere elect water pump, heat exchanger pump, D3 fans...the oem alternator wire was so hot the insulation was soft. I changed out to the optional heavy duty alternator cable that runs directly to the power terminal on fuse block.
Very little voltage drop to the battery.

Thus far, the shop has added a second battery since I want to run a even more stuff. This wasnt to be a fix but to add capacity.

Im asking them to take the alky kit, the fans out of the equation one at a time. Not just disconnect the Alky kit but remove the wiring as Im guessing that where they tap in or take power from might be upsetting the signal to computer that tells the alternator to charge.
Their logic is that several people have D3 fans and Alky kits without issues.
Well, i run dewitts and sealed the shroud which increases draw sunstantially.
Then, the "service electrical system" message wasnt there till after the service of
Alky, BAP, Dyno tune.

Either way, if the computer swap doesn't fix this Im wanting to take the car back and try to work on it myself. The car has been there for like 5 weeks, i had some other stuff done but the real issue is still there.
Man, I wish there was a true auto electric shop...the one near me finally closed when the man retired.
Frustrating.

Unreal

With the mechmans/billet techs, they are internally regulated/etc, so ECU should have no control at all. So I seriously doubt the ECU has ANY effect, since it doesn't care at all.

Power isn't that hard. You have the positives and negatives. Check all the + and grounds. A bigger/better power cable won't do anything if you have a grounding issue. The stater cables are notorious for melting and having issues, especially with headers. Start there. Check the start solenoid, and all the wiring around it.

speedz06

Thanks, the car got very hot a few times too.

so then the reason that the shop reports that the alternator is not communicatiing with computer is because there is no provision for that but they just dont know?

I agree 100% about the straightforward troubleshooting needed.
What Im wondering is if the attachment of the aftermarket items have caused some more issues because of the timing of the "service elect systm" message coincides with the service. Even a full year of charging issues and no message like that until I took it to the shop.

I think I had just better get it home and work through it.

Unreal

What plugs are in it? How are things routed? EMI and plug interference gives that message on borderline charging systems. In your case, you may need to run a shielded plug or reroute wires. It is a false warning, the system is charging fine just the car is freaking out from too much interference.

Pitufina

I would look into the connections for the alky controller. I bet they cut or did something under the cluster area while trying to find a power and ground. Check the fuse box mounting posts (4 bolts) that also serve as ground points. Also, the battery terminals in these cars have to be tight. When I said tight, I mean it!
I was chasing a stumble with absolutely no codes and the car was running like crap. All of a sudden the engine wouldn't start, all the lights in the cluster would flicker, the cd changer was going crazy and all kind of relays clicks ans what not. Checked the battery and I could not move the terminals at all. Still grabbed a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm socket and cranked tight. It was night and day difference on how the engine behaved afterwards. I only have 40k miles so the terminals look new. Good luck.

PD: Now that I think about it, there's a connection that is made at the fuse box when installing the alky kit. It's done pulling the box apart, so take a look at that. Also, if you have the ecs fuel pump booster, another connection is made there iirc.

rabrooks

Some of those codes reminds me of a situation I had.
May sound crazy but it was as simple as the tire monitors needing to be reset. Then all was well.

I was driving in my Tahoe with my tires and rims in the Tahoe. Somehow the coding got crossed and my tahoe started reading one of the vette tires. Put the tires on the car, had several codes like yours. After I put two and two together, I relearned the sensors and the problem was solved.

speedz06

After 8 weeks i just got it home on a flatbed...time to get started. Wish we all lived closer we could possibly work through it.

speedz06

Im wondering how the OP did with his car.
He described my situation exactly.