StayinStock

Ok guys to start I dont own a C6... i have a 98 c5 and we're attempting to retrofit a stock c6 fan onto it to clear the blower. So the c5 runs 2 fans where as the c6 is a dual mode fan (correct?). Can anyone help me figure out how these things are wired and made to function, I really dont need two speeds just want it to run full blast all the time. Whats the best way to go about this? Thanks!

BlindSpot

The C6 fan, by itself, is just a DC motor, There are two leads, a positive and a ground. Past that, the C6 fan circuit produces infinitely variable fan speeds. The fan control module takes an input directly from the ECU. This is a ground lead. This lead makes ground in a pulsed fashion at variable rates to produce a fan run percentage. The fan run percentages are programmed in at the tune and controlled by the ECM. The actual control parameters are more than just ECT. AC pressures effect fan speeds, MPH, etc. IMO, you're not going to be able to bring over the entire fan system, just the fan.

StayinStock

so say i jumped that directly to a ground could i pull voltage to it and have it turn full wick?

BlindSpot

Yes - the fan only, not through the control module. On a C6, the +12V is hot all the time. Negative is grounded all the time. On the car, you can make two 10ga or 8ga jumpers, unplug the connector from the control module, and bridge the reds and blacks and the fan will run full speed.

StayinStock

Sounds good, now to see if it physically will sit in the hole lol

3X2

I use a C6 fan on my Trailblazer controlled by one of these:
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

Going on 8 years as a daily driver with no issues. These fans draw a lot of current, especially on start up. Make sure whatever controller you use can handle the amps.

BlindSpot

Tru Nuff - I think in the range of 30/40 amps. GM did such an amateur job engineering the entire system. They put a 60 amp fuse in and under specced the wiring which is why most of the C6s out there have melted connectors.

StayinStock

well it took alot of physical modification to get it in the hole but it works and works well... temps are staying below 210 even after heavy driving... now just gotta figure out my drivability issue and this things done

BlindSpot

The only thing to caution you on - that fan is an incredibly high amp draw and they have short lives run at full speed.

StayinStock

well hopefully just a temporary solution until i can afford to buy a cut down dewitt and spall fans... thats the eventual goal. Appreciate the advice though, ill be sure to keep an eye on it

Unreal

Cut down radiator is always a bad idea. And many aftermarket fans are worse than stock. So if you are looking to downgrade your cooling system, that sounds like a plan. If you want to improve it, I would look at other options.

StayinStock

well based on my research thats the best on the market for a c5, the cut downs a must with the blower inlets, they barely clear as is... if im missing something though please point me in the right direction.

Unreal

How is a cut down a must with the blower inlet? I've ran a full size with blower. Blindside above has a full size with radiator with blower inlet. Almost everyone with a blower has a full size radiator. So saying it is a must is a stretch.

StayinStock

talking c5 not c6, the bridge over the radiator is alot more narrow... like i said im open to solutions but i havent produced anything that looks like a better solution. Only reason i posted this here was looking for answers on the c6 fan im using.

Unreal

Even so, the stock A&A or ECS inlet supports well over 1000rwhp on full size radiator, without even touching the cradle. If you want a larger inlet, cut/weld the support to move the radiator.