I can not for the life of me find the cause. We cleared the codes went away. Started car came back in 10 seconds with out moving. Only codes were clutch circuit b. Mass air flow body control mod and fuel sending unit bad.

I have brand new tpms that we're programmed today.

I do do have a air bag dash light on when I pulled the air bag to wire up a switch.

 

What code reader are you using?

 

Sorry didnt reply.. I got a i900 from a buddy to scan the codes.. I attached a video as well. I think allot of these colds have been in there for a long time.. Bc i had a cheap bluetooth one and it didnt pull up anything like this thing did..

So i cleared the 15 u saw in the video and the c0710 came back like right away.. I will prob have to put some miles on the carto see what others come back..


I also could not find how to clear the airbag light off the dash with this thing as well.

 

Document ID# 1856835
2006 Chevrolet Corvette

Subject: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C0710 Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) Signal, Service Stability System Message on Driver Information Center (DIC) (Inspect and Secure Wires in SWPS Connector) #06-02-35-002A - (08/21/2006)

Models: 2004-2006 Cadillac XLR

2005-2006 Chevrolet Corvette with Steering Wheel - Tilt, Telescoping (RPO N37)

Condition
Some customers may comment on a Service Stability Message on the DIC.

Diagnosis with a scan tool may reveal a DTC C0710.

Cause
The most likely cause of a DTC C0710 on a vehicle equipped with telescoping/tilt steering wheel is high resistance in SWPS connector C202. Fretting terminal corrosion maybe present in the SWPS connector due to the telescoping motion of the steering column. When the steering column is telescoped in and out, the female terminals within the SWPS connector may move on the male terminals of the SWPS. This movement between the terminals may cause a high resistance condition in the SWPS connector.

Correction
Remove the driver's side close out panel.

• Chevrolet Corvette -- Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Lower

On XLR models only, locate and remove the plastic strap (1) on the steering column harness that retains the three wiring harnesses. Discard this strap.
Important: Connector C202 is specified by the supplier and does not appear on the wiring schematic. This connector is different from C231 (40 pin) which does appear on the schematic.

Disconnect the SWPS connector C202 which connects to the steering angle sensor located on the lower center of the steering column.
Important:

• Failure to properly tape the wires in the connector may result in additional concerns.

• Failure to use a small plastic strap 2.5-3.5 mm (0.10-0.14 in) in width may prevent the SWPS connector from properly seating, resulting in additional SWPS DTCs.

• Failure to position the plastic strap in the connector notch shown below may result in the strap becoming loose and allowing the terminal to move within the connector.

Using electrical tape (1), tape from the plastic strap up the wires a minimum of 2.5 cm (1 in).
Install a small plastic strap (2) 2.5-3.5 mm (0.10-0.14 in) wide around the SWPS sensor connector so that it retains the wires to the connector as shown.
Important: Install and remove the SWPS connector a minimum of three times to remove any possible terminal corrosion.

Reinstall the SWPS connector.
Reinstall the close out panel.

• Chevrolet Corvette -- Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Lower

Clear the DTC with a scan tool and road test the vehicle.
If DTC C0710 resets during the road test, refer to DTC C0710 in SI.

 

well good news and bad news.. i fixed the dash light issue and active handling a sensor came un done under the dash.. But i am still experiencing after a hard acceleration the car will auto brake for like 1-2 secs its like pedal to flood stop but about 50% of pedal.. Has anyone had this happened to them? Only does it after a rip never slow speed up

 

i guess i didnt fix the problem.. came back on fierce and pulled to ride side as i was driving.. c0050 code came back up... so i went to the sensor rear right.. and there is no power or ground at it.. smh. omw to get a volt meter to check them all but i think the feed going to the rear right is dead


EDIT update - its showing .05volts at the harness so i guess just a bad sensor. anyone have a part number

thanks

 

yeah the part number is a wheel bearing

rockauto.com

 

so I tested harness side of the wheel speed sensor

Rf - 8.24v
Lf - 7.8
RR- 4.2
Lr - 7.8

 

after i started it and let it run i checked voltages again and they were as followed

Rf - 9.56
Lf - 9.50
RR- 4.9
Lr - 9.6

ill clear the codes.. drive for a short drive and they will come right back.. idk what to do

 

I hate this car..

tested wheel sensors all good and read ac. all read correct MPH to car.. But traction control is coming at like 5mph not even 15% throttle.. I am at wits end with this.. Idk what to do.

 

TC and AH are safety systems that are executed through common engine management controls such as ETC, Spark and Fuel cutoff. When there is a fault in most any basic engine management component, circuit, or system, the ECM will disable AH and TC. The warnings on the dash notify the driver not to count on these systems working until the engine management system is completely restored to full function.

This is not to say there cannot be some direct failure in AH, TC, but not very likely. Start with basic P-Code stuff. Especially issues like P-2125, P2128, P2138, etc. But any p-code CELs that might still be failing or reoccurring. As soon as the EMS is restored, AH and TC lights should automatically extinguish.

I am guessing that you're clearing codes, restarting, get 15mph out there, the failure resets, and AH, TC Show up each time.

 

I have no engine codes.. i just throw c0045 and c0050 but the sensors are passing the spin test. Both showing AC when i spin them by hand..

at the end i wasnt even clearing the codes.. i just start the car try to move and everything would trigger.. TC would come and just cut engine power yet i was doing 5mphs

 

If you're throwing BOTH rear wheel sensors - those too are vital inputs to AH and TC as the speed of the wheels are necessary inputs, of course. That also accounts for the 5mph CEL set as you need movement to reset the C-codes.

Here's a possibility. Not sure what you did to verify the wheel sensors are working, but just BC the sensors are getting voltage does not mean the sensor can read the wheel disc. Sometimes buildup on the receivers is great enough to cause fallout and failure to signal. On the other hand, it is pretty significant that you're getting both left and right failures. I'd probably start exploring upstream of the sensors from the harness on. Hate to have to say it but it could also be a failed EBCM. Do you have a Tech II?

 

Just reread it, not sure you can guarantee sensor accuracy with spinning wheels. But more concerned now both are failing. Are you getting any U-Codes? or are you capable of reading U-Codes?

For grins, why not try a hard reset just incase the EBCM is out of sync on the CAN Bus. Disconnect the battery. Make sure the positive CABLE is off the battery. Neg is OK whether it is on or off. GROUND the positive CABLE (off the battery), either to a solid ground or the battery ground. Hold this ground for at least 60 seconds. This will drain the capacitors in the modules and erase volatile RAM. Reconnect the battery, and test again. See if there is any difference in the C-Code sets at 5 mph. If they come back, then you're going to need to start at the rear wheel harnesses and trace them back. Make sure you have solid connects, then focus on the EBCM.

And one last observation - in all your sensor readings, RR is considerably lower than all the rest. Both rear wheel sensor codes could be thrown BC they are out of sync by 50%. If I followed it correctly, you replaced the RR sensor? Is it still low v compared to the left wheel?

Try this too:

 

I do not have a techii, i used a Icarsoft i900 to get me this far.. and i dont think i seen any U codes so far.. I just used a volt meter in AC and pluged into the harness of the wheel sensor and turned it and i saw movement on the ac on the meter..

as of right now I have not changed any wheel sensors still originals 75k on em.. Ill try that battery trick tomorrow and see where that gets me.

Now i did have an issue with the main harness that was behind the driver header melting and exposing wires. I cut out all the bad wiring and re did it and extended all the wires to route out down the fender wall vs behind the headers.. I mean its possible the problem lies in their.. But i trippled checked every wire when i reconnected them..

 

Hmmm...and these C-Codes appeared the first time after the harness repair? That's new info.

 

they were in there from the original melting.. once i fixed it and cleared they were gone.. and then 2 week later of driving they came back.. but for those 2 weeks it was perfect =/

 

think i located the problem.. Melted thru another set of wires.. even thou this time they were routed in front of the header and not behind..

Im going to rewire it again this time wrapping them with vulcan fire sleeve



this is where it was routed prior to melting.. for the 2nd time.. radiant heat must have just nuked it... which makes no sense bc towads the cowl wires were closer and no meltage

 

Very good!

 

well rewired the whole thing.. Bad thing is the main power line in that harness i think its the 10ga or 12ga red.. got tapped against the header and popped a fuse but i have no idea where said fuse is.. checked all the fused in the engine bay with no luck all werent blown..

any insight?