Hi,

I need to replace my AC compressor in my 09 coupe. Not worried about getting the old one out and the new one in, but everywhere on the internet says the condenser, A/C Receiver Drier (Accumulator), and A/C Orifice Tube (Expansion Valve) should also be replaced.

Condenser - I have already replaced
A/C Expansion Valve - I can find and will order, no big deal

But the A/C Receiver Drier, i cannot find a part number from GM, or any other site (rock auto), nor can i find a DIY on how to replace it, and lastly, i cannot find one on the car. Does the C6 Corvette have a A/C Receiver Drier???

Thanks
Michael

 

Good question and not that I know of. When I replaced my compressor the only recommendation was to replace the condenser. I didn't change the txv. Don't forget to clean or replace the strainer, which is in the outlet of the condenser.

 

Hellbringer:....From my 11 repair manual

Not replacing condenser but more receiver dryer

From my 11 repair manual

 

Thank you guy!!!!!

 

I live near Bouquet & Plum Canyon roads and I need to remove the AC compressor from my 07 Z51 coupe.How did you get yours out? Steering cylinder or passenger side exhaust manifold removed.? Houdini?

 

only need to replace entire ac system if the compressor blew up internally and has metal shards in the lines. If the compressor is just leaking or split open then just replace compressor.

 

I don't know if my AC compressor is bad or not. The AC compressor clutch broke, one of the 3 spring arms came off at one end & the bearing inner race spun on the compressor. I probably will replace the AC compressor and condenser since I have the radiator out now,.and the water pump. The lower radiator support bracket is broke so I removed that and the radiator/fan assembly came out from the bottom.. I am going to put new lenses on the headlights too. 2007 Z51 automatic w/95,000 miles. First real troubles that I have had, the broken lower support bracket probably led to the radiator leak.

 

You are probably good just to replace the compressor, just look at the opening on the compressor and lines for metal. Id take it to a shop to have the freon recharged and measured properly when back together.

 

If you replace the compressor, at minimum you should replace the condenser. Be aware of the filter screen located in the outlet of the condenser. If you don't change the condenser ( they're relatively inexpensive) check this screen and clean it.
I changed my compressor and didn't know the screen was there until it fell out of the condenser. It was stopped up with aluminum mud.

 

So I have been trying to chase down a pulley that’s been squealing and making noise. Thought it was the ac tensioner but I now think it’s the AC compressor itself. (Changed out both belts other pulleys and the main tensioner so only thing left is the AC comp.). Squeals a bit when ac is on and then makes almost no noise when I turn the ac off. Once the car is warmed up, there isn’t any noise.

So I think I am going to change the AC compressor. There aren’t any leaks in the system and the ac still blows nice and cold.

That being the case I have read it is not necessary to change out the drier/condenser. I know I will need to recharge the system with coolant but will I also need to add oil?

Anything else I should replace?

 

**I need to know this as well. CorvetteMods has an A/C Compressor remanuf. for 300 but is there a better place to get a replacement? Also, I've read another thread about adding oil or something as well? Planning on having some place remove the freon, then taking home car, replacing compressor & Condenser/Accumulator, then going back. Anything else I'm missing like the oil or anything?

 

I’d like to know as well. Just the Condenser, Compressor and ???

 

Throwing out the baby wih the bath water, and just need to pull the A/C pulley of the compressor, lube the pulley bearing, clean up and light lube the pulley to clutch and electromagnetic surface on the pulley, then reinstall. Done this way, compressor is not removed, freon does not need to be removed and recharged, and just a labor thing, with no parts other than grease needed.

So,


If you want to buy the tool,, but it you check with Orielys, then have the loner tool program, and get it free to use with a depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbui...117075#overlay

So going to hold the clutch plate, so you can remove the center bolt.
From here, want to remove the center clutch plate off the shaft, and will have a shim stack behind it on the shaft, so don't loose the shims, remove the e clip that holds the pulley in place, lube the bearing suport shaft with WD-40 and now ready to pulley off the shaft next.
In some cases, the clutch plate and the pulley will pull right off the shaft, while other time if a touch more rusty, may need to use a puller to get them off.



Once you have the pulley and clutch plate off, back side of the pulley has the seal exposed enough that you can pop the seal off, and re-grease the bearing with something like high temp grease, then pop the seal back on.


Next, any rusting surfaces the pulley and plate, inside the electromagnetic ID surfice, and once you have them clean and the center shaft so the parts will slide back on with ease, every so slight layer of high temp grease on the surface, so they will not rust quickly again.

Now just put the pulley back on, install the shim stack on the shaft, install the clutch plate back on the shaft, back up the clutch plate with tool and install the bolt and toque it to 35ft lbs with Blue locktite on the bolt threads. Put the belt back on, and all is good with the world again.

At 1:05, you have removed all that you need to remove.

 

Corvette Mods has a reputation lower than whale ****, and that's at the bottom of the ocean. Not meant to be funny, its meant to be factual. Do a thorough search, and you'll see for yourself. I sure wouldn't buy anything from them....

 

BTW, 4 Seasons V7 is rated pretty highly as a good replacement compressor. A new one was approximately $340 in 2019. Yes, info is dated. But a reman in 2019 was approximately $300, so not much difference than now. I saved the price estimates, so I know they were pretty accurate. This was late 2019, so info is just over 4 years old, FWIW. If you can get one for within $100 of a reman, I'd highly recommend a new one over a reman unit. If you get a bad reman unit, and it seems a lot of reman anything nowadays aren't of real good quality, compressors aren't any fun to change, trust me. My opinion........

 

@Dano523

I’m pretty sure the bearings in my pulley are going out. It makes some chirping noise when I turn it on and I looked and saw some wobbling (see video attached).


In your experience, what is the most efficient way to get to the clutch? From above? Underneath? I see there is a gap underneath where I could possibly access it, just not sure the best strategy for tool clearance.

Thanks!

 

From the bottom/ passenger side to get to the clutch.
Yes on pulley bearing being the problem, since if it was the compressors bearings being the problems, would have leaked out the Freon a long time again (system would not be getting cold).

 

Thanks! I’ll get that pulled off and see if I can’t grease the bearings to fix it.

 

With that much wobble of pulley, bearing went dry a long time ago, and is cooked now.
So press bearing out of pulley once you have it off the compressor, get number from bearing seal to get new bearing, pull seal to add a touch more high temp grease on new bearing,pop seal back on to press bearing back into pulley, re-stake the bearing in the pulley, and Bobs your uncle for the fix that should be less than $10 in the end.

 

Will do! I pulled and re-greased my idler and tensioner pulleys yesterday and they’re quiet again (had gotten noisy). Tensioner spring still had lots of strength to it, so I didn’t figure the whole thing needed replacing. Super easy following your instructions. Could be done in less than an hour and saved some $$.