Fuel Cell users chime in please!
08-16-2017, 08:54 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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Fuel Cell users chime in please!
Hey guys! I'm going to be converting my 07 to a pretty much full on drag car here shortly. Going to start with getting the fuel system squared away. Anyone have any tips on a fuel cell in the trunk? No I dont care about trunk space or the possibility of fumes, I'm willing to deal with that. I dont golf so no need for trunk space 
I have a few questions though.
1
Mounting. I'm guessing the cell is bolted in the trunk, through the floor some how. And the feed/ return lines also come up through the floor along with any wiring.
2 Size. 18 gallon max? will it fit? I dont need more than that, but would like to retain close to stock tank sizes.
3.) pump setup. Obviously the stock setup is a duel style delivery system fed via a primary pump and vacuum. A single 450 should get me started I am assuming. Will the car run with 1 pump fine? as in it does not require the second in tank feed to "start" and run the car.
4.) Fuel gauge. Guessing there is very limited options currently to correct this with the stock gauge. Though its not a huge deal, I'll take any info I can get. Other wise, I'll just keep my eye on the tank lol.
Thanks guys!
I have a few questions though. 1
Mounting. I'm guessing the cell is bolted in the trunk, through the floor some how. And the feed/ return lines also come up through the floor along with any wiring. 2
Size. 18 gallon max? will it fit? I dont need more than that, but would like to retain close to stock tank sizes. 3.) pump setup. Obviously the stock setup is a duel style delivery system fed via a primary pump and vacuum. A single 450 should get me started I am assuming. Will the car run with 1 pump fine? as in it does not require the second in tank feed to "start" and run the car.
4.) Fuel gauge. Guessing there is very limited options currently to correct this with the stock gauge. Though its not a huge deal, I'll take any info I can get. Other wise, I'll just keep my eye on the tank lol.
Thanks guys!
08-17-2017, 10:01 AM
#2
AMP Racing
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Location: Washington TWP NJ
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
Have you really thought this through??
What will the cell provide that the OEM tanks won't?
If you install a cell, you also need to install a bulkhead between the cell and the rest of the interior of the car.
Why so much fuel? You say it's a drag car... you only need maybe 8 gallons.
If you're going through the trouble, use an external pump. Mount it to the frame rail with a pre filter.
Race car? No need for a fuel gauge.
Use the OEM fuel pump wire from the harness to trigger the relay that will power your new fuel pump.
Lastly, the OEM setup will handle 1000+hp with some modifications...
Again, I ask, why the fuel cell?
And, for what it's worth, I went down this road with my car. I have a fuel cell. For my setup, it works perfect, but it's not for everyone.
What will the cell provide that the OEM tanks won't?
If you install a cell, you also need to install a bulkhead between the cell and the rest of the interior of the car.
Why so much fuel? You say it's a drag car... you only need maybe 8 gallons.
If you're going through the trouble, use an external pump. Mount it to the frame rail with a pre filter.
Race car? No need for a fuel gauge.
Use the OEM fuel pump wire from the harness to trigger the relay that will power your new fuel pump.
Lastly, the OEM setup will handle 1000+hp with some modifications...
Again, I ask, why the fuel cell?
And, for what it's worth, I went down this road with my car. I have a fuel cell. For my setup, it works perfect, but it's not for everyone.
08-17-2017, 12:31 PM
#3
Heel & Toe
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Have you really thought this through??
What will the cell provide that the OEM tanks won't?
If you install a cell, you also need to install a bulkhead between the cell and the rest of the interior of the car.
Why so much fuel? You say it's a drag car... you only need maybe 8 gallons.
If you're going through the trouble, use an external pump. Mount it to the frame rail with a pre filter.
Race car? No need for a fuel gauge.
Use the OEM fuel pump wire from the harness to trigger the relay that will power your new fuel pump.
Lastly, the OEM setup will handle 1000+hp with some modifications...
Again, I ask, why the fuel cell?
And, for what it's worth, I went down this road with my car. I have a fuel cell. For my setup, it works perfect, but it's not for everyone.
What will the cell provide that the OEM tanks won't?
If you install a cell, you also need to install a bulkhead between the cell and the rest of the interior of the car.
Why so much fuel? You say it's a drag car... you only need maybe 8 gallons.
If you're going through the trouble, use an external pump. Mount it to the frame rail with a pre filter.
Race car? No need for a fuel gauge.
Use the OEM fuel pump wire from the harness to trigger the relay that will power your new fuel pump.
Lastly, the OEM setup will handle 1000+hp with some modifications...
Again, I ask, why the fuel cell?
And, for what it's worth, I went down this road with my car. I have a fuel cell. For my setup, it works perfect, but it's not for everyone.
The cell will provide a much easier accessible fuel system for up and coming changes to the engine as well as personal peace of mind. Its a terrible system design in terms of how user friendly it is from the factory, and since mine is currently having lack of fuel pressure intermittently for the 2nd time in 2 years and I'm done playing with a terrible fuel system thats a nightmare to drop and reinstall.
As for a bulkhead, it is what it is. Not a top priority immediately, but not something that would hurt my feelings to do.
Why so much fuel again, as I will need to drive back and fourth to the track, so Id rather have too much than too little.
Currently looking at a stealth in cell unit of external, not sure which way I want to go currently or which one would be easier to setup. The stealth will be quieter and probably outlive an external tank pump, but less is more potentially in this scenario,
Again, fuel gauge is just a bonus if I can retain its function. Nothing more, nothing less.
I have my current pump setup to a Racetronix Rewire kit since the previous owner had issues with the oem wire like many others.
While I agree the stock tank setup is usable to near or above what I plan to make power wise, I'm simply not interested in dropping this crap AGAIN.
08-17-2017, 12:51 PM
#4
Pro
If you are set on a cell, I would do something under the rear floor where the mufflers are. You can weld brackets inside the frame to mount it rather that just thru bolting to the fiberglass (I did this for my ice water tank mounted in the trunk) You could simply turn the exhaust and dump out the sides of the car where the tanks are now. Saying you are ok with fuel vapors in the car is scary!
That being said.. I would stick with the stock tanks and go with a Fore system. Would be cheaper in the long run and much safer!
My car is well over 1000 rwhp, 250+ mph, race only, and still has the stock tanks with a Fore triple pump setup. I have had zero issues, still have fuel gauge, can hold as much fuel as stock, and corner scales perfectly. I do still have 25% of my fire system dedicated to the tanks to keep my butt from frying.
That being said.. I would stick with the stock tanks and go with a Fore system. Would be cheaper in the long run and much safer!
My car is well over 1000 rwhp, 250+ mph, race only, and still has the stock tanks with a Fore triple pump setup. I have had zero issues, still have fuel gauge, can hold as much fuel as stock, and corner scales perfectly. I do still have 25% of my fire system dedicated to the tanks to keep my butt from frying.
Last edited by RecMech; 08-17-2017 at 12:57 PM.
08-17-2017, 01:18 PM
#5
Heel & Toe
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If you are set on a cell, I would do something under the rear floor where the mufflers are. You can weld brackets inside the frame to mount it rather that just thru bolting to the fiberglass (I did this for my ice water tank mounted in the trunk) You could simply turn the exhaust and dump out the sides of the car where the tanks are now. Saying you are ok with fuel vapors in the car is scary!
That being said.. I would stick with the stock tanks and go with a Fore system. Would be cheaper in the long run and much safer!
My car is well over 1000 rwhp, 250+ mph, race only, and still has the stock tanks with a Fore triple pump setup. I have had zero issues, still have fuel gauge, can hold as much fuel as stock, and corner scales perfectly. I do still have 25% of my fire system dedicated to the tanks to keep my butt from frying.
That being said.. I would stick with the stock tanks and go with a Fore system. Would be cheaper in the long run and much safer!
My car is well over 1000 rwhp, 250+ mph, race only, and still has the stock tanks with a Fore triple pump setup. I have had zero issues, still have fuel gauge, can hold as much fuel as stock, and corner scales perfectly. I do still have 25% of my fire system dedicated to the tanks to keep my butt from frying.
I'm open to ideas of course. The issue I see with the Fore unit is its still pushing $1500.00, and I still have to drop and rehang my tank, AGAIN lol. I could probably get away with a decent cell setup with external pumps for what I would consider a substantially less investment...I think...
With all that in mind, this will be my 3rd time dropping this tank. And its just not sitting well with me. Like, it makes me want to sell the car because its that obnoxious haha. I have a feeling the O rings and everything need replacing. I cant for the life of me figure it out, but it keeps throwing me a gross and minor Evap leak, and im leaning towards crossover tube witchcraft. Just want it finished so I can start on my hotside crap lol.
08-17-2017, 02:05 PM
#6
Pro
I agree, working on the saddle tanks is a royal pain, especially when working only on jack stands. It does get easier with practice!
I deleted my EVAP. Took the passenger side line that fed the canister valve and hooked it to a roll over valve (as you would see on a fuel cell), plus there is a valve on each tank.. I am however on an aftermarket ECU now, but you should still be able to tune the alarms out of the factory ECU?
I deleted my EVAP. Took the passenger side line that fed the canister valve and hooked it to a roll over valve (as you would see on a fuel cell), plus there is a valve on each tank.. I am however on an aftermarket ECU now, but you should still be able to tune the alarms out of the factory ECU?
Last edited by RecMech; 08-17-2017 at 02:06 PM.
08-17-2017, 02:14 PM
#7
Heel & Toe
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I agree, working on the saddle tanks is a royal pain, especially when working only on jack stands. It does get easier with practice!
I deleted my EVAP. Took the passenger side line that fed the canister valve and hooked it to a roll over valve (as you would see on a fuel cell), plus there is a valve on each tank.. I am however on an aftermarket ECU now, but you should still be able to tune the alarms out of the factory ECU?
I deleted my EVAP. Took the passenger side line that fed the canister valve and hooked it to a roll over valve (as you would see on a fuel cell), plus there is a valve on each tank.. I am however on an aftermarket ECU now, but you should still be able to tune the alarms out of the factory ECU?
08-17-2017, 03:16 PM
#8
AMP Racing
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Washington TWP NJ
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
Well, I can certainly understand the dislike of dropping the OEM tanks.
Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out.
Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out.
