Upgraded differential....flush before install? How?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
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From: ocean springs mississippi
Upgraded differential....flush before install? How?
So I purchased a 09 rear diff for my 05....looks to be in great condition, but was thinking I maybe should try and flush it some how to make sure there is NO debris/contaminates that may have been/gotten in while out of car (couple months) ? Had tape over opening when I got it and been sealed up since I've had it.....but better safe than sorry!!! Best way to flush/clean internals??
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; Dec 11, 2017 at 08:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 237
From: Indianapolis IN
If it was properly covered up I would not worry about it too much.
You could always drain, refill, run on lift for a few minutes, drain again, and then refill. Unless you think some sand or large debris other than dust may have gotten inside then I wouldn't get any crazier than that.
You could always drain, refill, run on lift for a few minutes, drain again, and then refill. Unless you think some sand or large debris other than dust may have gotten inside then I wouldn't get any crazier than that.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
If it was properly covered up I would not worry about it too much. ×
You could always drain, refill, run on lift for a few minutes, drain again, and then refill. Unless you think some sand or large debris other than dust may have gotten inside then I wouldn't get any crazier than that.
You could always drain, refill, run on lift for a few minutes, drain again, and then refill. Unless you think some sand or large debris other than dust may have gotten inside then I wouldn't get any crazier than that.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
Pro
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 69
From: Southwestern PA
Way back when I was in the service I used a 50/50 mix of oil and jet fuel (kerosene) and ran that through my motor for a few minutes, drained and then refilled with the good stuff. Oil came out nice and clean and that old Buick lasted over 150K miles when I traded it in.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 190
From: Austin TX
Way back when I was in the service I used a 50/50 mix of oil and jet fuel (kerosene) and ran that through my motor for a few minutes, drained and then refilled with the good stuff. Oil came out nice and clean and that old Buick lasted over 150K miles when I traded it in.
As for flush, I would try contacting RPM or a company of that nature and see what they recommend. Although it may have been covered up for its life, you still dont know what it went through. You can probably just get away with a simple drain and fill (and break in).
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
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From: Indianapolis IN
Its not really about getting warmed up. That would probably take some time. You are just running it long enough to get any particles suspended in the fluid to drain them out.
Last edited by User Omega; Dec 16, 2017 at 12:22 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
What about running a lighter weight (5w20) in it and just drive around the block....then drain it/replace with the amsoil stuff?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
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From: ocean springs mississippi
*or could just leave it on jackstands and put it in gear*
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; Dec 16, 2017 at 06:06 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
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From: Indianapolis IN
I know it seems like such a waste but using the correct fluid seems like a cheap piece of mind. I think Valvoline synthetic is only $13/qt.
Well, cheap motor oil is around $2/qt and most people have an extra bottle or two laying around. I do not know enough about oils to determine whether that is safe or not.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 103
From: Aurora IL
Just use cheap gear oil to flush if that's what you really want to do. Any other oil will not have the EP (extreme pressure) additive and shock load capability like gear oil. Btw rear diffs tend to get very hot 170's to 220 plus
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
The ONLY reason i had mentioned a light weight oil is because it is obviously more fluid/thinner at lower temps.....hence would help flush anything in there out without having to heat up the differential and risk damage....im sure this is just ocd.....but thats the nature of the beast...lol
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,537
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From: Bethesda MD
The ONLY reason i had mentioned a light weight oil is because it is obviously more fluid/thinner at lower temps.....hence would help flush anything in there out without having to heat up the differential and risk damage....im sure this is just ocd.....but thats the nature of the beast...lol
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 237
From: Indianapolis IN
unless you're changing the oil in sub freezing temps, I would not expect the thinner oil to provide much benefit in terms of a flush. I'd just prefer not to have residual thin oil in the pumpkin. Probably not an issue given how little would be left over. But then if I'm worried about flushing an expensive rear, the extra cost of a couple qts of gear oil would not determine my actions.
I really have no idea which would work better for helping to remove the maximum amount of possible contamination but the concern of contaminating my final fill with regular engine oil would have me using gear oil. You could always warm the fluid up before putting it in and preheat the pumpkin with a small space heater before spinning it up if you wanted to thin it out at bit. Probably overkill.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 112
From: ocean springs mississippi
I think he was more trying to determine whether or not the thinner fluid would help to get the possible contaminants out as it would run out faster instead of sticking to everything. It was I that made the assumption that he just didn't want to waste the money. That was my fault.
I really have no idea which would work better for helping to remove the maximum amount of possible contamination but the concern of contaminating my final fill with regular engine oil would have me using gear oil. You could always warm the fluid up before putting it in and preheat the pumpkin with a small space heater before spinning it up if you wanted to thin it out at bit. Probably overkill.
I really have no idea which would work better for helping to remove the maximum amount of possible contamination but the concern of contaminating my final fill with regular engine oil would have me using gear oil. You could always warm the fluid up before putting it in and preheat the pumpkin with a small space heater before spinning it up if you wanted to thin it out at bit. Probably overkill.