When I installed my headers several months ago I overtighted the drivers side header bolts by quite a bit before realizing my torque wrench wasn't set properly.

Fast forward to about a month ago and I have a ticking sound that the duration changes with engine RPM.

I wanted to rule out some easy stuff first so I started looking for exhaust leaks. Using a paint can smoke tester I found one at my muffler, but it's big enough that the smoke pours out before it can get further up in to the exhaust system to find additional leaks. I'm going to resolve that.

Last night I figured I'd go ahead and check my header bolts and the front one of the drivers side is spinning in a clockwise direction, however it's not spinning completely freely. I haven't tried to remove it yet because I'm a bit worried about what I'm going to run into. But, I also don't know if it is actually leaking from the gasket. I don't see any residue that would indicate an exhaust leak around the header flange.

Does anyone have any input on how they would approach this? I'm planning to pull the headers in the next week to address the issue. I know if the bolt is broken I can try to use an extractor and hope the threads at the exhaust manifold held. But, what if I've stripped the bolt holes at the exhaust manifold? Tap and die? Heli-Coil?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

I have used Heli-Coil a couple of times and it worked well. I have reinstalled the bolt several times with no issues.

 

I appreciate the reply. I was thinking a heli-coil over a tap and die.

I don't think the problem is that I reinstalled the bolt. I think the problem is that I torqued it about 10x more than I should have.

 

The heli-coiled thread is actually stronger than the threads in the head when they were new.

 

 

Interesting I didn't know that. This will be my first time messing with something like this so I'll do some research on what size coil I need, thread pitch, etc. I'd like to have one on hand in case that ends up being my problem.

I really appreciate both of your help.

 

99% sure that they are M8. I used ARP studs with 12 point nuts. That way I only use the threads in the head one time. Plus, you can hang the headers on them when you are doing the install.

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=2231

 

Also did this, much easier

 

I also have to agree 100% with the Heli-Coil -

I had to do this with my center bolt on my valve cover (and do this on another car too) it works very well and you can buy a kit often times - and as others stated you can also do the ARP Stud kit

Thanks,Matt

 

This is all great info. I was assuming because I was inserting a coil in the bolt hole it would displace some of the available space and I'd have to go to a smaller diameter bolt.

Clearly I need to research a bit more about them.

And thank you for the link to the studs. That's the one thing I regretted not doing when I did headers.

You guys are great!

Edit: A quick search shows you bore out the bolt hole. This does look like a fairly simple solution.
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Not true, if the bolt hole is 8mm, you drill and tap it and the insert is 8mm, so bolts stay the same size.

 

Drill the bolt hole, tap and insert coil. The bolt is the same size.
The coil will have a small tab on the end used to screw it in, remove tab once the coil is inserted.

 

You have all been a fantastic resource. This sounds like an easy, but great solution.

I'm going to go ahead and do a heli-coil to that bolt hole whether it "looks" like it needs it or not. Heli-coil and new ARP head studs will do the trick I believe.

Now I just hope I haven't burned up any piston rings with a leak right at the header flange, but I think I'm safe.

 

Check out timeserts too. I prefer them to helicoils.

 

I've always wondered that about using a HeliCoil, how to remove the "small tab on the end" without losing it.

Comments, please.

 

Mine set came with a tool that breaks it off and then it stays on the tools and comes right out.

I think my kit is 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12MM

 

I know several people that like them much better than heilcoils, but I have so many helicoils, that haven't tried them.

 

Broke a valve cover bolt off and had to drill it out and rethread it. Used a timesert and imo was better than helicoil.

 

Good info on timeserts. I've never heard of them before and will check into the option.

Thanks again!

 

I especially like the idea of installing studs, with studs you will know you are using the entire length of the tapped hole (added strength), plus you will be steel-to-steel when installing and removing components like headers and sway bar components. I'm not fond of using steel or stainless steel fastener into aluminum structures. Galvanic corrosion can make it so that fastener will never come out. I've used caulking compound (polysulfide sealers for boats) with steel/aluminum with some success - at least the fastener won't back out and its is more easily removed than locktite.