Mantic clutch install questions...
01-02-2018, 11:37 AM
#41
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
01-02-2018, 11:48 AM
#42
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Of course the correct tool is the best option, but if you feel like using some redneck engineering you can remove the pilot bearing with bread. Yes I said bread. 
Stuff the whole with bread and use a punch that's the same size as the ID of the bearing. As you fill it keep using the punch to install more bread. It eventually pushes out the bearing perfectly. I have done this in a pinch, it works!
Agreed, we use a piece of a prop shaft here.
That is the std weight of the clutch, no lighter version is offered.
Correct, and ECS includes the bleeder and pilot bearing too.
We did not want the clutch to be any heavier, nor have we had a single request for one, so we did not want to clutter up the site with a non seller and presumably more customer questions.
Stuff the whole with bread and use a punch that's the same size as the ID of the bearing. As you fill it keep using the punch to install more bread. It eventually pushes out the bearing perfectly. I have done this in a pinch, it works!
We did not want the clutch to be any heavier, nor have we had a single request for one, so we did not want to clutter up the site with a non seller and presumably more customer questions.
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C5/C6 and C7 Supercharging Specialist
ECS Supercharger Kits / Mantic Clutches
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C5/C6 and C7 Supercharging Specialist
ECS Supercharger Kits / Mantic Clutches
www.EastCoastSupercharging.com
Facebook Page
ECS YouTube Channel
01-02-2018, 12:34 PM
#43
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Of course the correct tool is the best option, but if you feel like using some redneck engineering you can remove the pilot bearing with bread. Yes I said bread.
Stuff the whole with bread and use a punch that's the same size as the ID of the bearing. As you fill it keep using the punch to install more bread. It eventually pushes out the bearing perfectly. I have done this in a pinch, it works!
Agreed, we use a piece of a prop shaft here.
That is the std weight of the clutch, no lighter version is offered.
Correct, and ECS includes the bleeder and pilot bearing too.
We did not want the clutch to be any heavier, nor have we had a single request for one, so we did not want to clutter up the site with a non seller and presumably more customer questions.
Stuff the whole with bread and use a punch that's the same size as the ID of the bearing. As you fill it keep using the punch to install more bread. It eventually pushes out the bearing perfectly. I have done this in a pinch, it works!
Agreed, we use a piece of a prop shaft here.
That is the std weight of the clutch, no lighter version is offered.
Correct, and ECS includes the bleeder and pilot bearing too.
We did not want the clutch to be any heavier, nor have we had a single request for one, so we did not want to clutter up the site with a non seller and presumably more customer questions.
This?
Last edited by C U IN REARVEIW; 01-02-2018 at 08:37 PM.
01-02-2018, 12:42 PM
#44
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Location: Hudson WI
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
Thanks for the replies! Been looking over direction and want to do it right the first time (very first clutch install and NEVER want to do it again lol),is there any special/helpful tips I should know about installing this setup? 9000 twin disc/sprung ceramatalic? I see some measuring is needed with non sprung versions.....?
01-02-2018, 01:53 PM
#47
Melting Slicks
I have the heavy flywheel one (50 pound total assembly) and I also had the light flywheel one (34 pounds as shown above). I lost 15 hp going to heavy flywheel one but the car is much better in stop and go traffic and idling in parking lot. The Mantic is a very nice clutch. Depends what you are doing with car and as I mentioned above whether or not you have a big cam or supercharger. Where I lived there is too much stop and go traffic with hills so the heavier flywheel was better for me. If you road race or drag race car a lot then go with light flywheel. The light flywheel works fine it just takes getting use to and as I said depends on your situation.
01-02-2018, 08:38 PM
#48
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies! Been looking over direction and want to do it right the first time (very first clutch install and NEVER want to do it again lol),is there any special/helpful tips I should know about installing this setup? 9000 twin disc/sprung ceramatalic? I see some measuring is needed with non sprung versions.....?
This?
This?
01-04-2018, 04:38 PM
#49
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies! Been looking over direction and want to do it right the first time (very first clutch install and NEVER want to do it again lol),is there any special/helpful tips I should know about installing this setup? 9000 twin disc/sprung ceramatalic? I see some measuring is needed with non sprung versions.....?
This?
This?
01-04-2018, 05:20 PM
#50
Safety Car
I’ve never installed a Mantic but the only measuring I’m aware of for typical CSC clutches is the amount of preload the slave will have on it once installed. That has nothing to do with the discs being sprung though. Check out Tick Performances website for their slave shims. The install instructions for measuring are on the product description pages.
Last edited by Tech; 01-04-2018 at 05:20 PM.
01-04-2018, 07:52 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I’ve never installed a Mantic but the only measuring I’m aware of for typical CSC clutches is the amount of preload the slave will have on it once installed. That has nothing to do with the discs being sprung though. Check out Tick Performances website for their slave shims. The install instructions for measuring are on the product description pages.
01-04-2018, 08:28 PM
#52
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St. Jude Donor '15
I used a steel alignment tool (basically prop shaft), tends to go together easier but plenty have used plastic one just fine. I used the plastic one originally, then metal one showed up, couldn't get the metal one in at all, so I'm assuming it would have been a PITA to get the torque tube in. Loosened it back up and used metal one
If you don't have the metal one I wouldn't worry about it, just try to keep plastic one centered as best you can when starting to tighten everything down
If you don't have the metal one I wouldn't worry about it, just try to keep plastic one centered as best you can when starting to tighten everything down
Last edited by schpenxel; 01-04-2018 at 08:28 PM.
01-04-2018, 09:15 PM
#53
Team Owner
Never used anything but the plastic alignment tool. I have one I've had for 10+ years that works fine.
01-05-2018, 12:07 AM
#54
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I used a steel alignment tool (basically prop shaft), tends to go together easier but plenty have used plastic one just fine. I used the plastic one originally, then metal one showed up, couldn't get the metal one in at all, so I'm assuming it would have been a PITA to get the torque tube in. Loosened it back up and used metal one
If you don't have the metal one I wouldn't worry about it, just try to keep plastic one centered as best you can when starting to tighten everything down
If you don't have the metal one I wouldn't worry about it, just try to keep plastic one centered as best you can when starting to tighten everything down
01-05-2018, 12:08 AM
#55
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
01-05-2018, 10:58 AM
#56
Team Owner
Both. Had a double and now a triple. Zero issues with either.
01-06-2018, 02:33 AM
#57
Safety Car
Same here ^^^
01-06-2018, 02:25 PM
#58
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St. Jude Donor '15
