I have searched hi and low for an answer, but have found nothing definite.

Does anyone know the part # for the revised cylinder? I don't want to order the wrong one.

Thanks in advance

Mike

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If you are talking about the clutch master cylinder go to your dealer and order it - the reservoir is total black plastic not the white / yellow plastic your old existing one is. That's how you know you got the updated one. By now they should be selling the updated one as the new one has been out for about 2 years now.

 

Yep, tank will be black (not clear) and the top cap will read " Dot 4 fluid".

The new improved one,



The old style before improvements.


As for what was improved, the old style had a nasty habit of the end seal popping off the end of the shaft,
Attachment 48341326


End up with the end plunger just sitting in the bottom of the cylinder so the master would not pump any fluid to the slave.
Attachment 48341327

So yes, you could pull the master apart and snap the end pieces back on the shaft end and put it back together, but will only be a mater of time before the fluid become thick again, and pops the end seal off again instead.


So the improved master cylinders have the end seal retained better to the end of the shaft isntead.The tank and cap with dot 4 are not better or worse, and just serve as a marker instead.

Myself, since I like to see the color of the fluid in the tank at a glance , when installing an improved master clutch cylinder, will reuse the old cleaned up clear tank instead of using the new black tank, then then use the new dot 4 cap on the clear tank.

 

Thank you, I order one tonight. Good info and good idea with reusing the clear tank.

 

Dano that was an awesome response! Pics and all. I have a couple questions regarding this and thought it would be good to ask here instead of start another thread.

I have heard several times the clutch pedals were failing and sticking to the floor....Is this the reason for that?

Also in researching this I found that Tick performance markets an adjustable unit that is suppose to take care of the pedal failure issue?

Again.....fantastic response, you know your stuff

 

I like it a lot when knowledgeable members post good no **** info.

There are others, of course, but when Dano and Bill Dearborn post I pay attention.

 

Yes on the pedal drop, and is due to the fluid becoming contaminated/thick, and when the clutch pedal spring cam over about half way up to pull the pedal all the way back up, it does such faster than the slave is returning the fluid to the master isntead.

As for the Tick unit (Tilton slave cylinder with Tick added parts to it so it will work with a C6), it has it plus and minuses.

The plus is that is does have rebuild seal kits, the body is aluminum so it can be honed and rebuilt, and the seals are retained in a fashion that they they are not going to pop off on a vacuum stroke problem instead.
Note, then new OEM no long has the end seal pop off problem on a assist vacuum stoke either.

The downside (at least that I see it), the ID of the Tilton cylinder is wider than the oem unit, so it pushes more fluid per stroke than the OEM. So to use it, you have to move the rod mounting post on the pedal so the pedal is stroking the cylinder less distances to begin with, and still have to adjust in slop at the initial pedal stroke so you not over stroking the pressure plate spring fingers with slave to damage the clutch.

Had Tick used a Tilton cylinder with the same volume per stroke as the OEM unit, the unit would be plug and play isntead. Hence a better unit then the plastic OEM, that you can't rebuild once the plastic cylinder walls are clutch dust scored isntead.

 

Again....Very good information! Last question regarding this subject (I think lol) Reading your post above GM has a improved unit out now. In your opinion would the GM unit be as good (or better) than the Tick piece? Thanks!

 

The Tick (tilton cylinder) is a very good unit since you can rebuild it for around $15, but know that up front, it not a plug and play device like installing a OEM master cylinder instead.

So with the tick, since you have to adjust slop in the top of the stroke, it will move then engagement point of the clutch farther down in the pedal stroke, and since it's still pushing more volume than the oem master per stroke distance, will shorten up the clutch engagement distance in the stroke as well.

Here are the install directions for the tick unit.
http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf

 

This is the updated Master Cylinder
19331709