wheeljo2

I have a 2007 LS2 convertible 6spd manual with 46K miles and the balancer bolt came loose. Going to go ahead and replace the seal, dampner and bolt with ARP and thought since I have to remove the steering rack that this may be an ideal time for a mild cam swap.

Are there any cam grinds out there that will allow for stock springs and push rods and if so what are the bare minimum requirements to doing this swap over above and beyond what I already have to do to replace the dampner?

addictedtotrack

I have been researching this very same thing. Although my balancer has not come loose and I’m not ready to do the cam swap.
So yes there are cams you can buy that are great cams that you can retain stock springs and push rods. A couple I had been looking at were the GM performance parts ASA cam and the Hot Cam. Leaning towards the ASA cam. In addition to your list while your in there I would install a new timing chain, timing chain dampener and the oil pump and cam thrust plate which has a gasket on it too. Timing cover gasket and water pump gaskets. Check your water pump too and be sure it has no wobble.
You could also have PatG spec something for you based on exactly what you want based on your flavor of driving.
We have many members here that know their stuff that will chime in as well. They have been helpful to me. Good luck and most of all have fun!

wheeljo2

Thanks for your reply, so can I swap the cam out without having to pull the intake manifold or cylinder heads? What about the oil pan?

Rob Joyner

I have a 08 LS-3 and I've been looking into a cam swap also. GM has a youtube site that can be found by searching "cam # 88958733. They promote their "hot cam". I've used this forum and gleaned some info. 1. this cam has been around since about 2009; some members are not impressed with it; the lift on this cam is .525, and the maximum suggested lift the stock valve springs will take is .530 so it stays within that limit. Some members are suggesting as much as .620 lift which would require a valvetrain upgrade. 3. GM says this cam will give me 50 add'l hp and 50 ft lbs torque. I really haven't checked out the ASA? cam? that someone mentioned.
I've checked out some youtube videos and the lopey idle does sound pretty good, but the driveability is questionable for an automatic transmission since the car does have a little bucking below 1500 rpm. This is not an issue if it's in a manual trans. car since downshifting is not really a problem when such starts to occur versus driving an auto. trans. car and having to manually downshift the lever which most auto trans drivers had rather not have to do. I think some of this comes from the degrees of separation on the GM cam versus some other hotter cams with less separation but more lift.
I've not made a decision yet, but I do like the exhaust sound at idle. I have the NPP exhaust with bypass switch which really enhances the sound. With a stock exhaust most of the sound is going to be muffled. To get the full effect of the sound you may have to go to at least a catback system but some of them are pretty noisy - ALL the time! If you're not interested in the idle sound, you have to consider that, based on the data I've looked at, you will get an honest 50hp/50tq gain.
Oh, and there is a tool you can use to keep the lifters out of the way when pulling/installing the cam, and a pin that will take tension off the chain dampener, so yes you can make the swap without even having to pull the intake, or even the oil pump since the cam gear and chain will clear that when removing/replacing. Looks to me like the cam and some gaskets will be all needed except for break-in oil for the break-in period, paying special attention to proper cam break-in procedure.
I priced the GM cam at $565. I've seen cheaper cams but haven't seen anybody's cam that stays under the .530 valve spring limit, thus the other cams seem to require valve spring upgrade and lifter replacement.

2-21-18
Okay, guys. Just an update. I've decided to go with a Brian Tooley Racing stage two cam. Decided to not go with the stage three since it's more radical, and I'm about a good idle lope and reliability.
Getting double springs, trunion upgrade, pushrods, 3-bolt cam gear, ATI balancer, crank bolt (of course, since they are a one-time use), and a dyno tune. I'm replacing the OEM balancer since I've learned that it can give problems over time, and this is certainly a good time to do it and possibly save on a lot of labor cost later.
Getting this done next month. I'm guessing at about a 25hp/25tq increase without adding headers or anything else non-stock. We'll see how realistic those figures are.
I'll post a dyno sheet when done. I'll also post a Youtube video of the results. I've got the factory NPP exhaust so I'm curious to hear what it will sound like with that.

addictedtotrack

Yes you can swap the cam without pulling Intake and cylinder heads. I would pull the valve covers and remove all the rocker arms and push rods (very easy to do....would be a good time to do the trunion bearing upgrade,also easy to do) be sure to put them all back in same place as you removed them. You don’t have to pull the oil pan either. I would change the timing chain and oil pump out while your this deep into it! Once the chain is off you can give the cam a good spin and it will push the lifters up in the trays and they should stay there.....but to be safe you can get a couple pieces of dowel rod and put in the 2 holes left and right of cam opening and the lifters can’t fall back down while your pulling and replacing the cam. I’m no expert but this how I’m going to do it.

xBoostx

You can use same valve springs but I don't recommend it sense you have a manual if by mistake you down shift at high rpms you are going to hit your valves with the soft springs they will not stand a chance, is cheaper to change springs THAN redoing the heads AND new springs.

Just get conic valve springs and use your own oem keepers and retainers they are light weight and very strong.

If your oil pump holds 30 t0 35 psi hot no need to change you will have to move the steering rack to one side or remove all together to remove the harmonic dampener so you can remove the front engine cover.

BE SURE to disconnect the steering rod from the rack and pinion connection as to not displace the steering positioning sensor or you'll be in for a treat.

addictedtotrack

Where is the steering position sensor located?

xBoostx

Is last thing on the steering column shaft below steering wheel is a white plastic ring the keeper snaps off happened to me and many others the fix for me was to remove the steering assembly to put it on a table (on top of steering wheel) line up the sensor and keeper and put a fork over it to bang it back into it's correct position.

All these can be avoided just put steering wheel and tire straight disconnect the steering shaft under the hood by the header be sure not to turn steering wheel has to be center with the tires straight and connect back when finish and you are good to go.

You may want to tie up steering wheel to brake pedal to be sure no one turns it to avoid braking the clock spring.

Twiggs

I lost my cam and lifters recently to a loose cam sprocket bolt. I went with the hot cam out of convenience of not having to worry about finding the "right" cam / spring combination and price relative to a stock cam.

I should be picking it up from the dealer this weekend or next if all goes well if you want to get details on the tune / a clip of it idling.

wheeljo2

Appreciate the insight but please elaborate not sure what you mean by ..

"BE SURE to disconnect the steering rod from the rack and pinion connection as to not displace the steering positioning sensor or you'll be in for a treat."

Also, what conical valve springs are you recommending can I get them from Summit Racing they have a new warehouse down the street from my house and i plan to get my harmonic balancer from them.

xBoostx

Sure open the hood and follow the steering column shaft you will see a bolt across it remove that bolt and pull away the rack tours the front to clear the shaft.

The factory valve springs are also called Beehive type depending on the cam you use you select the spring, the attached below are Chevrolet Performance quality springs reasonably priced with capability for a good cam without exceeding necessary pressure using your OEM valve keepers and retainers and not braking the bank.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499224

wheeljo2

That would be great thanks would love to hear how your install goes and the tune/idle characteristics.

wheeljo2

I decided to go with this cam that was patterned after the GM LS Hot Cam almost half off. Will tear down this weekend not sure if I have a 3 bolt cam sprocket now or the one bolt.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-GEN-III-...72.m2749.l2649


Anyone know how far off my tune will be off at idle, part-throttle and WOT after the mild hot cam install?

xBoostx

Single bolt 4X camshaft gear from a 2007-2014 LS2 or LS3 engine. GM part number 12591689. (This is likely what you will find you have)

(Bellow is what you may have to get)
Three bolt 4X camshaft gear from a 2006 LS2 Corvette or from a 2006-2009 LS7 Corvette engine. GM part number 12586481.

Note EPR is listing 3 different grinds under same part number if you get the 523/524 you are OK but not the ones on the product description those smaller cams grinds.

A real kick a$$ cam would be see bellow about $51. more but is ground on a signature 1050 core & better specs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIAN-TOOLE....c100005.m1851

wheeljo2

Cam installation complete and fired the engine and it threw a cam sensor code P0341, upon research I realized that Summit sold me the wrong 3 bolt cam gear 1x or one 180' raised spot on it versus the 4x. Am I hosed or can my tuner adjust for this or do I have to tear it all back down again and replace the cam gear with GM part number 12586481. Summit's description for the kit they sold me SLP -KT34205S says it is for the 05-07 Corvette LS2 but I guess 2007 being a transition year had two different 3 bolt cam gear options. Can I swap the cam position sensor instead? Hopefully there is a simple fix as right now I am disgusted.

xBoostx

I'm not sure what to tell you is a mistake I never made sorry this happen is only work keeping you from your car though call Brian Tooley (888) 959-8865 he knows but I think is ecm with the positioning code.

irok

you will have to change it to the GM 3 bolt 4X cam gear p/n 12556127. 05 C6 is only one that uses 1X cam gear.your car whether 1 bolt or 3 bolt needs 4X cam gear for ECM to read properly.some cam companies made same cam with 1 bolt or 3 bolt mounting but require 4X in your case

wheeljo2

Appreciate all the insight, I replaced the cam gear sprocket with GM part number 1258648 this weekend with the proper 4x and it fired right up and runs perfect! I pulled off the original mufflers and it is now music to my ears sounds awesome idling at 650rpm and not even re-tuned!!