mine sure did! I got my stock heads and cam LS2 car down to 10.9 with a 3600 yank stall and bolt ons.

 

Not sure have not had one but will flash lower if I had to guess.

 

Please educate me on what is meant by 3200 stall and the reference to "flash". I saw the video someone posted and the flashing light in the instrument cluster, and if memory serves, it was mentioned the stock torque converter stall is 1400.

I understand with a torque converter, the oil acts as a disconnect between the transmission and the engine in that at low rpm's, the oil will essentially disconnect the engine from the transmission so you can roll to a stop (for example).

If my understanding is correct, then using a stock converter, at 1400 rpm's the engine and transmission are for all intent and purposes "locked" (but not like the locking in gears 3 - 6). So with slippage, you get more heat into the oil which will have to be dealt with sooner or later.

So with big cammed cars that won't idle below 1200 rpm's, a 1400 rpm torque converter could be a real pain in the rear for drive-ability, plus you would end up with a heat problem with the transmission oil too.

So is my understanding correct so far? And what does "flash" mean?

Thanks in advance.

 

Yep you are correct but at the risk of over simplification, because it is not a mechanical connection but a hydrologic connection when you stomp on the gas pedal, the engine is able to overcome the lock up at lower rpms, the revs will pop up into the powerband of the motor and a converter setup with a flash rpm of 3200 might flash to 3600 with a more powerful motor

Dave

 

Thanks Dave, what does "flash" mean? I assume an indicator for some event or condition.

 

Is where the rpm will go to rite off the hit, off the line or just going down the road.

On the 440 Ci LS7 06 GTO with a 3600 pro Yank sees 5400 every time.

Higher power higher rpm flash.

Honestly Mike all these high stall converters produce a lot of heat real quick not sure is a good idea considering the use suggested by sign on your car door

 

Buying a tight converter vs a loose converter is IMO what is best for a daily/street driven car. This simply allows the car to be driven pretty much like a normal converter when giving the car a normal amount of gas. Flashing a converter is simply quickly giving the car a lot of gas off the line, which allows the rpms to immediately jump to the stall rating before the car starts moving. This immediately puts the car in a high torque range on the engine, which gets the car moving more quickly. The shift extension is typically closer as well, which means the rpms drop fewer between shifts, again keeping the engine in the ideal torque range. You should speak with the company you choose when you are ready to buy. In order to properly build the stall they need to know your current power level, and future modification plans. As indicated, when you add major power to the engine, that additional power can overcome the as-designed stall rpm and cause it to act like a higher stall converter. The Yank TT2600 I had in my Magnacharged Avalanche was a single disc, and because I had 475 hp vs stock 285, it was more like a 3000-3200 stall. If you plan to beat on the converter constantly you would be well advised to go with a 3 disc converter as it will hold up much better over the long haul. You should also plan to have the transmission shifting strategy tuned to your liking as well, as the OEM tuning will not be ideal with a higher rpm stall. If you are concerned about additional heat from a stall, it is easily and cheaply remedied with the addition of a good transmission oil cooler. That's a much simplified rundown on converter basics.

I encourage you to do your own research rather than just rely on the answers you get on the forum. A good start is to check out Yank's website, as it has a lot of good, basic information.

There are quite a few good converter companies out there, but two I see constantly recommended for performance applications are Yank and Circle D.