When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My issue is that typically each morning after a long sit, when the start button is pressed the car doesn’t crank. You have to press off and try again. Sometimes 2,3,4,5,6,7 or more times before it will actually crank and start. If you’ve had this problem, i’m just looking for some of the issues that were the actual fix. My ‘05 Z51 has been at the dealer for 9 weeks already and they still haven’t found the cause.
With it being a 2005 I would say you have a column lock thats going bad.. There are a ton of posts on this forum about this problem. They make a bypass module to fix this , they are sold on ebay..Dealerships dont have a clue ....WW
.
.
.
With it being a 2005 I would say you have a column lock thats going bad.. There are a ton of posts on this forum about this problem. They make a bypass module to fix this , they are sold on ebay..Dealerships dont have a clue ....WW
.
.
.
yes, I installed one about three years ago. I brought it to the dealer they claim that General Motors has a dual module kit to bypass the column lock and starting issue now. They also claim the column lock motor is no longer serviced. They installed this kit but still has the same problem They also replaced the power control module, the body control module, the clutch disengage switch, push to start switch, ignition switch, and the problem remains.
yes, I installed one about three years ago. I brought it to the dealer they claim that General Motors has a dual module kit to bypass the column lock and starting issue now. They also claim the column lock motor is no longer serviced. They installed this kit but still has the same problem They also replaced the power control module, the body control module, the clutch disengage switch, push to start switch, ignition switch, and the problem remains.
had the same issue last summer.some days it would not crank and some days it would.my car is auto so no column lock.the issue with mine was the terminal and connector on end of the crank relay wire going from the fuse box to starter had lost tension in it after all these years.bought new terminal and connector from GM for about $10. and was good to go.has never given me an issue since.if you have some one move terminal at solenoid while trying to get it to crank and it cranks you will know you have found your issue.good luck with it.drove me crazytrying to find it.check for continuity between crank relay fuse and solenoid
Above is correct.. The plastic on the starter solinoid cracks causing this problem.. Sometimes they break when tightening the nut..Many on here have needed to order new solinoids because of the cracking problem...
.
.
had the same issue last summer.some days it would not crank and some days it would.my car is auto so no column lock.the issue with mine was the terminal and connector on end of the crank relay wire going from the fuse box to starter had lost tension in it after all these years.bought new terminal and connector from GM for about $10. and was good to go.has never given me an issue since.if you have some one move terminal at solenoid while trying to get it to crank and it cranks you will know you have found your issue.good luck with it.drove me crazytrying to find it.check for continuity between crank relay fuse and solenoid
Bad connection either at the battery or starter. And to the OP I hope they don't plan to charge you for all of the unnecessary parts they threw at it.
Above is correct.. The plastic on the starter solinoid cracks causing this problem.. Sometimes they break when tightening the nut..Many on here have needed to order new solinoids because of the cracking problem...
.
.
that is a different issue altogether.I'm talking about crank relay harness terminal and connector
had the same issue last summer.some days it would not crank and some days it would.my car is auto so no column lock.the issue with mine was the terminal and connector on end of the crank relay wire going from the fuse box to starter had lost tension in it after all these years.bought new terminal and connector from GM for about $10. and was good to go.has never given me an issue since.if you have some one move terminal at solenoid while trying to get it to crank and it cranks you will know you have found your issue.good luck with it.drove me crazytrying to find it.check for continuity between crank relay fuse and solenoid
forgot to mention that the entire positive cable from battery to starter was already replaced.
HOWEVER, this feed wire from the crank relay to the solenoid is exactly the type of issue I’m talking about and why i turned here for help!!!!! That makes complete sense!
I’ll be at the dealer first thing Monday to cover that, THANK YOU!
And for the record, i paid for the first attempt, corroded positive cable and second attempt, clutch switch (which i verified had a code for) but all the other guesses I’ve discussed with the SM are n/c. I don’t mind paying for something that is a fix, and he knows that but not for their education lessons.
SO, you changed the wire from the crank relay in the power distribution box next to the battery to the starter solenoid including the crimped on terminals???
And this is a factory supplied part??
a part number would be awesome but i think they could figure that out. I feel good about this lead!
Thank you again! I’ll report back asap!
and if anyone else has anything else to add, by all means, please do.
forgot to mention that the entire positive cable from battery to starter was already replaced.
HOWEVER, this feed wire from the crank relay to the solenoid is exactly the type of issue I’m talking about and why i turned here for help!!!!! That makes complete sense!
I’ll be at the dealer first thing Monday to cover that, THANK YOU!
And for the record, i paid for the first attempt, corroded positive cable and second attempt, clutch switch (which i verified had a code for) but all the other guesses I’ve discussed with the SM are n/c. I don’t mind paying for something that is a fix, and he knows that but not for their education lessons.
SO, you changed the wire from the crank relay in the power distribution box next to the battery to the starter solenoid including the crimped on terminals???
And this is a factory supplied part??
a part number would be awesome but i think they could figure that out. I feel good about this lead!
Thank you again! I’ll report back asap!
and if anyone else has anything else to add, by all means, please do.
your speaking about the correct wire now but I didn't have to change the wire just the female terminal and connector on the end of that wire (at solenoid end) the connector should have a part number.the terminal itself would be in the kits that any GM dealership would carry as shop supplies.careful with the terminal end as they are very close in size and difficult to tell difference by eye(with my eyes anyway)that terminal has an opening in it and over time lose's tension that prevents proper contact to solenoid.also depending on amount of times it has been removed and reinstalled on solenoid.the new connector on the terminal was so tight on the solenoid that it was difficult to remove while working on it.I bought the 2 terminals nearest in size to what was on car and used the tightest one of the 2.the dealership should easily find the p/n for the connector but I will look through my records for p/n.if the car is not cranking when you check it will be easy to find.if this is your issue move connector/terminal by hand and car should immediately crank