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I put a Z06 intake on my base 2009 LS3 so that I could install an Elite Engineering 2 oil catch can. The GM engineers claim that the oil consumption issues through the PCV system on a LS3 is acceptable and normal to foul the intake and spark plugs.
Mine doesn't surge and I've slowed the oil down.
Yup... GM isn't paying for cleaning or new plugs.
Got the same BS story on my Cadillac ATS front cover leaking. The called it seepage and it was acceptable. I refused to accept that and showed them with photos and the burnt oil smell. I offered to park my car in the service mgr's garage overnight to prove it. She didn't accept and the problem was resolved.
Companies and armchair mechanics toss this "engineer" claim around like it is gospel and heaven forbid you challenge it.
I went ahead and used JB Weld to reconnect the two parts and as a little insurance since I couldn't see if the Weld sealed all way round I applied a two-part epoxy with a brush, getting into the joint where I really can't see so as to make sure the joint is really sealed. If anyone decides to do this it should noted that the resonance box should not rest on anything except it's mounting tab since when the engine moves in it's mounts components could bump the box and make a noise. Actually, I temporarily taped a pencil in place (as a spacer) on the plastic area above the radiator where this resonance box could rest if not installed/glued properly. The box shouldn't be touching anything but the glued joint and the mounting tab when it's reconnected.
People have reported surging issues... I personally picked up a LS7 intake for cheap to put on the 3. No surging, a little more intake growl (but really nothing you can hear unless the NPP is closed)
Most aftermarket intakes dont have the resonator/silencer so I suspect its not really necessary...
Wow... 2 posts from 2012 & 2013. 1 with a reference to "flat spots" at low rpm's and another with "surging" on modified engine. Pretty weak.
I check my ALL DATA database for any TSB's that reference "surging" and came up clean.
To me the "Wart" is nothing more than an "intake muffler" and has nothing to do with performance. The OP can make an informed decision on whether to keep his air intake stock or update to something else like the Z06 air intake or aftermarket CAI.
I still want to know why it's almost $280 to remove the silencer.
It works like a air cleaner on a carburetor engine.
I do a lot of custom maf installations, but mostly on turbo cars.
Some of them have a huge problem with this. The engine as it warmed the turbo, spins the turbo faster and faster. Eventually it puts out more air at idle than the engine wants.
If the system is sealed, i.e. turbo -> throttle body with no bypass, then the 'extra air' has no where to go, so it goes back out the way it came, the compressor goes into surge and the air reverses direction momentarily.
If the maf is anywhere near the compressor when this happens, it too senses the 'stalling air' in the pipe and fueling is no longer adequate, the engine surges/stalls. The fix that the OEM turbo applications all use is two fold:
1. they use an intake air tube with 'convolutions' or 'extra passages' for air to disperse, reducing the maf hotwire buffeting effects
2. they use a bypass valve to recirculate excess air from the post-compressor pipe to pre-compressor inlet.
In a custom application, you can also:
A: Add length between the maf and throttle body
B: put gentle bends between throttle body and maf sensor
Finally many do not realize that by allowing the compressor to spin freely by bypassing air from outlet pipe to inlet tube, the compressor wheel is operating farther to the right side of the compressor map than it would be otherwise.
That happened to me too few years back. They are glued together and it looks something like a crazy glue, dried up and separated. I used JB weld, 2 part epoxy for marine industry, that thing is never coming apart again. It is solid.
I followed your advice, first using JB Weld to reconnect the joint and after that cured for 24 hours, removed the whole assembly from the car so I could gain access to entire joint and applied a two-part epoxy all way round the joint to ensure a complete seal.