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I just found the resonator box that is supposed to be attached to the side of the air cleaner on my '08 C-6 LS-3 has come unattached at some time. At the very least it's allowing dirty air into the engine. My question is - is this part glued to the air cleaner assembly or is it supposed to be attached with some kind of clamp mechanism. Apparently, the box and the air cleaner on mine have been rubbing together so long I can't tell how the two pieces were ever attached. If someone will check for me to see if it's all one glued assembly or if the two are held together by some other means, I'd appreciate it. If the two pieces are supposed to be glued together from the factory, I'll re-glue them. If that's not the way it's supposed to be then I guess I'll look for another assembly where the attaching method hasn't been damaged by the long time rubbing against each other.
I have done a little reading and see that it's supposed to smooth the airflow into the plenum.
That happened to me too few years back. They are glued together and it looks something like a crazy glue, dried up and separated. I used JB weld, 2 part epoxy for marine industry, that thing is never coming apart again. It is solid.
Don't 86 it and install the ZR1 .... the LS3 air intake flows just as well and that is a HEMHOLTZ resonator designed to reduce surging that was felt by many because of turbulence over the sensor
It is just glued together so as the others stated just use some JB weld and glue it back on
Don't 86 it and install the ZR1 .... the LS3 air intake flows just as well and that is a HEMHOLTZ resonator designed to reduce surging that was felt by many because of turbulence over the sensor
It is just glued together so as the others stated just use some JB weld and glue it back on
Dave
Everyone knows better than engineers here who took the time and money to design that and put it on the LS3. It is not an LS7 or LS9. BJ weld is under 5 bucks.
OK... tell me what is different? They both use the same filter.
Base Air Intake - $135
Z06 Air Intake - $414
It's pretty obvious by viewing the pics you posted. Even though the base and Z06 quarter panels use the same fasteners and attach to the same body structure, a visual will show the differences.
OK... tell me what is different? They both use the same filter
If you are an OEM Tech then you should know all about a Hemholtz Resonator and its purpose
GM did not just add something just because ....
Sure you can change it but why would u as the LS2 and 3 motors are prone to Surge , you don't feel it as much with a automatic as you do with a stick car but its there ....
Oemtech is from the computer business.
I have had both on my 08... No issues with the Z06 version.
Went thru the same issue on my 10 Hemi Challenger. Went with the SRT version to get rid of the wart.
Having checked the before and after via Trinity data logging (LTFT,STFT, Knock Retard, Timing etc) I could not find much difference if any. Maybe, just maybe I could add some timing and fuel at WOT or RPM's about 4,000. I also tested a Corsa CAI and it definitely need some tuning. I took it off when I decided to leave the engine stock.
Oemtech is from the computer business.
I have had both on my 08... No issues with the Z06 version.
Went thru the same issue on my 10 Hemi Challenger. Went with the SRT version to get rid of the wart.
Sorry about the OEM TECH comment
but just because you did it or others , does not make it right , not unless you warn the OP that there could be a surging problem which is a known problem with the LS motors Hence the reason why they added the resonator
but just because you did it or others , does not make it right , not unless you warn the OP that there could be a surging problem which is a known problem with the LS motors Hence the reason why they added the resonator
Dave
No harm No Foul...
I would say that the Wart is added more for sound reduction than anything else. On my 14 Cadillac ATS 2.0T the silencer was mounted inside the air tube.
People have reported surging issues... I personally picked up a LS7 intake for cheap to put on the 3. No surging, a little more intake growl (but really nothing you can hear unless the NPP is closed)
Most aftermarket intakes dont have the resonator/silencer so I suspect its not really necessary...
Wow... 2 posts from 2012 & 2013. 1 with a reference to "flat spots" at low rpm's and another with "surging" on modified engine. Pretty weak.
I check my ALL DATA database for any TSB's that reference "surging" and came up clean.
To me the "Wart" is nothing more than an "intake muffler" and has nothing to do with performance. The OP can make an informed decision on whether to keep his air intake stock or update to something else like the Z06 air intake or aftermarket CAI.
I still want to know why it's almost $280 to remove the silencer.
I put a Z06 intake on my base 2009 LS3 so that I could install an Elite Engineering 2 oil catch can. The GM engineers claim that the oil consumption issues through the PCV system on a LS3 is acceptable and normal to foul the intake and spark plugs.
Mine doesn't surge and I've slowed the oil down.
I just found the resonator box that is supposed to be attached to the side of the air cleaner on my '08 C-6 LS-3 has come unattached at some time. At the very least it's allowing dirty air into the engine. My question is - is this part glued to the air cleaner assembly or is it supposed to be attached with some kind of clamp mechanism. Apparently, the box and the air cleaner on mine have been rubbing together so long I can't tell how the two pieces were ever attached. If someone will check for me to see if it's all one glued assembly or if the two are held together by some other means, I'd appreciate it. If the two pieces are supposed to be glued together from the factory, I'll re-glue them. If that's not the way it's supposed to be then I guess I'll look for another assembly where the attaching method hasn't been damaged by the long time rubbing against each other.
I have done a little reading and see that it's supposed to smooth the airflow into the plenum.
I went ahead and used JB Weld to reconnect the two parts and as a little insurance since I couldn't see if the Weld sealed all way round I applied a two-part epoxy with a brush, getting into the joint where I really can't see so as to make sure the joint is really sealed. If anyone decides to do this it should noted that the resonance box should not rest on anything except it's mounting tab since when the engine moves in it's mounts components could bump the box and make a noise. Actually, I temporarily taped a pencil in place (as a spacer) on the plastic area above the radiator where this resonance box could rest if not installed/glued properly. The box shouldn't be touching anything but the glued joint and the mounting tab when it's reconnected.