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Having a hard time getting my lowered zO6 into enclosed car trailer without bottoming out the nose.
It is 2" from the ground.
Bought 6' race ramps with 5.2 degree incline and it still rubs on those.
Don't want to change the suspension (manually adjustable double coil over).
This is a track only car.
Any tips besides planks of plywood and changing the angle of the approach to load the car?
It bottoms out on the small beaver tail also once up
to the trailer.
I have a winch. Is there some other loading accessory that may help me, or added air lift to front.... Open to any tips 😊! Thanks
Drive the back of the tow vehicle up on some ramps, blocks, whatever. That will raise the front of the trailer while lowering the rear. You can also find an inclined driveway that will do similar. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
I've loaded my C6 Grand Sport on and off numerous times and I had to use 2X6s every time. Wood is your friend. A C6 GS, Z06, ZR1 are probably the most difficult Vettes to load/unload s8nce they sit so low. My C7 GS seems like it's lifted by comparison.
Race Ramps makes a dozen custom ramp models for Reverse Logic. One ramp model, the RLL-TR-105-2, has an initial incline of 2.2 degrees. That's a lot less than the standard ramp models.
You can quickly determine if one of the custom ramps will work with your car/trailer combination using the trailer ramp calculator at https://www.reverselogic.us/race-ramps.
Originally Posted by SFR Barbie
Having a hard time getting my lowered zO6 into enclosed car trailer without bottoming out the nose.
It is 2" from the ground.
Bought 6' race ramps with 5.2 degree incline and it still rubs on those.
Don't want to change the suspension (manually adjustable double coil over).
This is a track only car.
Any tips besides planks of plywood and changing the angle of the approach to load the car?
It bottoms out on the small beaver tail also once up
to the trailer.
I have a winch. Is there some other loading accessory that may help me, or added air lift to front.... Open to any tips ��! Thanks
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Dec 11, 2019 at 11:39 AM.
any chance putting it in backwards can work? I have a steep driveway at home. I scrape the plastic airdam going in frontward, but when I back it in (always now) I never touch a thing.
Drive the back of the tow vehicle up on some ramps, blocks, whatever. That will raise the front of the trailer while lowering the rear. You can also find an inclined driveway that will do similar. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
I've loaded my C6 Grand Sport on and off numerous times and I had to use 2X6s every time. Wood is your friend. A C6 GS, Z06, ZR1 are probably the most difficult Vettes to load/unload s8nce they sit so low. My C7 GS seems like it's lifted by comparison.
thank you! I think we have cut every sized board, lol!
Race Ramps makes a dozen custom ramp models for Reverse Logic. One ramp model, the RLL-TR-105-2, has an initial incline of 2.2 degrees. That's a lot less than the standard ramp models.
You can quickly determine if one of the custom ramps will work with your car/trailer combination using the trailer ramp calculator at https://www.reverselogic.us/race-ramps.html.
Thanks!! I have the BT-TT-710 version from Race Ramps, still bottoms out on those
appreciate the info!!
any chance putting it in backwards can work? I have a steep driveway at home. I scrape the plastic airdam going in frontward, but when I back it in (always now) I never touch a thing.
it has a diffuser on it that is just as low I wish that would have worked.
with trailer hooked to truck, jack the trailer as high as you can get it, it will lower ramp angle
Thanks...we actually tried this when we picked it up....had the back end of the truck and the trailer front end off the ground....it helps but the nose still rubs.....I think I have to look at car modifications?
Wondering about some sort of air lift addition to the suspension...? Darn thing is so low, impossible to load without every piece of wood added at each tire turn. Thanks for the tip
I wish i could post a picture of the setup?
Can I do that on this forum?
You all are giving me great tips.
We have a fold down on the trailer already and trailer type ramps about 6' long, 7" high so the trailer tail sits on the ramps...ha...still rubs.
Thanks for brainstorming with me everyone!!
Older pic, but it shows us using all the tricks... Trailer hitch jacked up (we normally go higher that what is shown here), blocks under the main door, door flap, and race ramps (also have built in beaver tail). I still just about touch as it breaks over the door/floor transition. Also very close to the splitter in spots.
I have been winching the car in and out since day 1 with a wireless remote. Car is lowered on coil overs.
I didn't realize how much the flap flexes until I just opened this...
I believe the ramps shown in the photo in the previous post are the RR-TR-5. You can compare this ramp to some of the custom Race Ramps available at this link.
The drawings shown on that page are scale, so it's easy to visualize the relative difference in the incline, length, and height of the various ramp models.
Originally Posted by RecMech
Older pic, but it shows us using all the tricks... Trailer hitch jacked up (we normally go higher that what is shown here), blocks under the main door, door flap, and race ramps (also have built in beaver tail). I still just about touch as it breaks over the door/floor transition. Also very close to the splitter in spots.
I have been winching the car in and out since day 1 with a wireless remote. Car is lowered on coil overs.
I didn't realize how much the flap flexes until I just opened this...
I believe the ramps shown in the photo in the previous post are the RR-TR-5. You can compare this ramp to some of the custom Race Ramps available at this link.
The drawings shown on that page are scale, so it's easy to visualize the relative difference in the incline, length, and height of the various ramp models.
Trailer Loading Question
