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Clutch Master Cylinder

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Old May 18, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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Default Clutch Master Cylinder

When it rains it pours while I am installing a new hud system in my 08C6 and putting in a new radio unit with nav and GPS my clutch goes to the floor luckily close to home 700 bucks to replace the master cylinder. performance guy says it’s not heat related almost every article I read says it could be what are your thoughts
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Old May 18, 2018 | 04:53 PM
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GM was fixing them for free even after the warranty was up for a while. I have a Tick master in mine for the past 7 years because I had the same problem you did once.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 06:41 PM
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Read to understand why the old OEM master cylinders go south.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html

So due to such being well noted, GM will replace your master cylinder with a new updated one that the end plunger does not get sucked off the end of the rod instead.

As for the quick way to spot the new Upgraded master cylinders, the fluid reserve tank on them is not white/see through, but black with a Dot 4 signage on the cap.

Last edited by Dano523; May 18, 2018 at 06:47 PM.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:23 PM
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bought my 06 last year with 13K. Car has been pampered and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had a tick installed and now it again stuck to the floor. The reservoir was empty and it is leaking where the line goes into the transmission. I am not sure if the line was not installed correctly or if the slave cylinder is leaking inside the bell housing. What I am sure of is that I am getting really close to fixing it and selling it. Thoroughly fed up with GM and this poor quality piece of crap Vette. It will be my last GM owned product. If anyone is interested, might get a hell of a deal on an 06 silver convertible with 16K miles. DISGUSTED!!
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rcorkinsjr
bought my 06 last year with 13K. Car has been pampered and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had a tick installed and now it again stuck to the floor. The reservoir was empty and it is leaking where the line goes into the transmission. I am not sure if the line was not installed correctly or if the slave cylinder is leaking inside the bell housing. What I am sure of is that I am getting really close to fixing it and selling it. Thoroughly fed up with GM and this poor quality piece of crap Vette. It will be my last GM owned product. If anyone is interested, might get a hell of a deal on an 06 silver convertible with 16K miles. DISGUSTED!!
Need more details, hence if a clutch was replaced with an after market clutch that the Free lash between the tb to pressure plate fingers was too large to begin with, and now the slave seal it trying to stoke to much forward to cause the leak at the seal itself, or a remote bleeder line was installed and the leak is from it to the slave isntead.

Hence on some of the remote bleeders, the L loop of the line off the slave it too tall, hits the top of tunnel, and causes the remote to leak itself instead.

Last edited by Dano523; May 18, 2018 at 08:53 PM.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:52 PM
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The clutch is factory. The only thing that was replaced was the master cylinder.

Last edited by rcorkinsjr; May 18, 2018 at 08:53 PM.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Need more details, hence if a clutch was replaced with an after market clutch that the Free lash between the tb to pressure plate fingers was too large to begin with, and now the slave seal it trying to stoke to much forward to cause the leak at the seal itself, or a remote bleeder line was installed and the leak is from it to the slave isntead.

Hence on some of the remote bleeders, the L loop of the line off the slave it too tall, hits the top of tunnel, and causes the remote to leak itself instead.
It looks like a seal leak. Im hoping an error while installing the master cylinder.

Last edited by rcorkinsjr; May 18, 2018 at 08:58 PM.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rcorkinsjr
It looks like a seal leak. Im hoping an error while installing the master cylinder.
only thing not factory is master cylinder.
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Old May 19, 2018 | 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rcorkinsjr
It looks like a seal leak. Im hoping an error while installing the master cylinder.
So is the thought that you have a leak between the coupling between the master and slave cylinder?

Although the slave seal can take a little abuse, if you don't have the tick master adjusted correctly, you could be bottoming out the pressure disc finger via the TB, and it put too much strain on the seal to blow it isntead.



Hence with the tick installed correctly (pedal stud for the master rod off set higher in it new drilled position) and adjusted correctly, should have 3/4"~1" of top of pedal initial push downward that the master cylinder is not starting to build up pressure yet.

http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf

Last edited by Dano523; May 20, 2018 at 12:27 AM.
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Old May 19, 2018 | 06:44 AM
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Really appreciate the information. The installation was done by a very well known performance shop that specializes in Corvettes. It will be going right back there to be fixed. I am an engine guy and really don't know much about clutches and transmissions. I sold a 69 AMX that was beautiful to purhase the Vette. I'd love to have that AMX right about now.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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Update, the cylinder line was compromised by the header heat, sooooooo after talking to the tech we decided to go with a solid steel line. Any opinions?
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Old May 21, 2018 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vincepicone
Update, the cylinder line was compromised by the header heat, sooooooo after talking to the tech we decided to go with a solid steel line. Any opinions?
Not going to to solve the problem if the problem was from the header heat and OEM piping not touching the header pipe, since even a SS braided line still have an inner liner to it.

As for solid SS braided line, Tick makes one without a center coupling, but it only works with the Tick (clinton) master cylinder.

Now the bad news, since the flex part of the clutch line is on the slave cylinder line, the drive line has to be pulled to get at it.

Simply put, who ever installed the headers, did not take the time to pull and secure the Clutch line far enough away from the header so it would not be a heat problem, and now the drive line has to be pulled to replace the slave now.



So I would throw the problem back at the shop that installed the headers to begin with, and let them deal with the melted flex line on the slave on there dime instead.

Simply put, when headers are added, not only do you need to pull all the lines/wires that are combustible away from the header pipes, but the starter should be heat shielded as well.
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Old May 22, 2018 | 10:08 AM
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The flexible line is there for a reason and that is because the drivetrain (that the slave attaches to) moves a little bit independently of the chassis (that the master is attached to).

You need to make sure the routing is as good as possible and add more heat shielding. Welcome to headers!!
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Old May 23, 2018 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Not going to to solve the problem if the problem was from the header heat and OEM piping not touching the header pipe, since even a SS braided line still have an inner liner to it.

As for solid SS braided line, Tick makes one without a center coupling, but it only works with the Tick (clinton) master cylinder.
I went with the one piece line, less joints, less problems.
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