Clutch Master Cylinder
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html
So due to such being well noted, GM will replace your master cylinder with a new updated one that the end plunger does not get sucked off the end of the rod instead.
As for the quick way to spot the new Upgraded master cylinders, the fluid reserve tank on them is not white/see through, but black with a Dot 4 signage on the cap.
Last edited by Dano523; May 18, 2018 at 06:47 PM.
Hence on some of the remote bleeders, the L loop of the line off the slave it too tall, hits the top of tunnel, and causes the remote to leak itself instead.
Last edited by Dano523; May 18, 2018 at 08:53 PM.
Hence on some of the remote bleeders, the L loop of the line off the slave it too tall, hits the top of tunnel, and causes the remote to leak itself instead.
Last edited by rcorkinsjr; May 18, 2018 at 08:58 PM.
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Although the slave seal can take a little abuse, if you don't have the tick master adjusted correctly, you could be bottoming out the pressure disc finger via the TB, and it put too much strain on the seal to blow it isntead.

Hence with the tick installed correctly (pedal stud for the master rod off set higher in it new drilled position) and adjusted correctly, should have 3/4"~1" of top of pedal initial push downward that the master cylinder is not starting to build up pressure yet.
http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf
Last edited by Dano523; May 20, 2018 at 12:27 AM.
As for solid SS braided line, Tick makes one without a center coupling, but it only works with the Tick (clinton) master cylinder.
Now the bad news, since the flex part of the clutch line is on the slave cylinder line, the drive line has to be pulled to get at it.
Simply put, who ever installed the headers, did not take the time to pull and secure the Clutch line far enough away from the header so it would not be a heat problem, and now the drive line has to be pulled to replace the slave now.

So I would throw the problem back at the shop that installed the headers to begin with, and let them deal with the melted flex line on the slave on there dime instead.
Simply put, when headers are added, not only do you need to pull all the lines/wires that are combustible away from the header pipes, but the starter should be heat shielded as well.
You need to make sure the routing is as good as possible and add more heat shielding. Welcome to headers!!
As for solid SS braided line, Tick makes one without a center coupling, but it only works with the Tick (clinton) master cylinder.















