vincepicone

When it rains it pours while I am installing a new hud system in my 08C6 and putting in a new radio unit with nav and GPS my clutch goes to the floor luckily close to home 700 bucks to replace the master cylinder. performance guy says it’s not heat related almost every article I read says it could be what are your thoughts

timd38

GM was fixing them for free even after the warranty was up for a while. I have a Tick master in mine for the past 7 years because I had the same problem you did once.

Dano523

Read to understand why the old OEM master cylinders go south.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html

So due to such being well noted, GM will replace your master cylinder with a new updated one that the end plunger does not get sucked off the end of the rod instead.

As for the quick way to spot the new Upgraded master cylinders, the fluid reserve tank on them is not white/see through, but black with a Dot 4 signage on the cap.

rcorkinsjr

bought my 06 last year with 13K. Car has been pampered and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had a tick installed and now it again stuck to the floor. The reservoir was empty and it is leaking where the line goes into the transmission. I am not sure if the line was not installed correctly or if the slave cylinder is leaking inside the bell housing. What I am sure of is that I am getting really close to fixing it and selling it. Thoroughly fed up with GM and this poor quality piece of crap Vette. It will be my last GM owned product. If anyone is interested, might get a hell of a deal on an 06 silver convertible with 16K miles. DISGUSTED!!

Dano523

Need more details, hence if a clutch was replaced with an after market clutch that the Free lash between the tb to pressure plate fingers was too large to begin with, and now the slave seal it trying to stoke to much forward to cause the leak at the seal itself, or a remote bleeder line was installed and the leak is from it to the slave isntead.

Hence on some of the remote bleeders, the L loop of the line off the slave it too tall, hits the top of tunnel, and causes the remote to leak itself instead.

rcorkinsjr

The clutch is factory. The only thing that was replaced was the master cylinder.

rcorkinsjr

It looks like a seal leak. Im hoping an error while installing the master cylinder.

rcorkinsjr

only thing not factory is master cylinder.

Dano523

So is the thought that you have a leak between the coupling between the master and slave cylinder?

Although the slave seal can take a little abuse, if you don't have the tick master adjusted correctly, you could be bottoming out the pressure disc finger via the TB, and it put too much strain on the seal to blow it isntead.



Hence with the tick installed correctly (pedal stud for the master rod off set higher in it new drilled position) and adjusted correctly, should have 3/4"~1" of top of pedal initial push downward that the master cylinder is not starting to build up pressure yet.

http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf

rcorkinsjr

Really appreciate the information. The installation was done by a very well known performance shop that specializes in Corvettes. It will be going right back there to be fixed. I am an engine guy and really don't know much about clutches and transmissions. I sold a 69 AMX that was beautiful to purhase the Vette. I'd love to have that AMX right about now.

vincepicone

Update, the cylinder line was compromised by the header heat, sooooooo after talking to the tech we decided to go with a solid steel line. Any opinions?

Dano523

Not going to to solve the problem if the problem was from the header heat and OEM piping not touching the header pipe, since even a SS braided line still have an inner liner to it.

As for solid SS braided line, Tick makes one without a center coupling, but it only works with the Tick (clinton) master cylinder.

Now the bad news, since the flex part of the clutch line is on the slave cylinder line, the drive line has to be pulled to get at it.

Simply put, who ever installed the headers, did not take the time to pull and secure the Clutch line far enough away from the header so it would not be a heat problem, and now the drive line has to be pulled to replace the slave now.



So I would throw the problem back at the shop that installed the headers to begin with, and let them deal with the melted flex line on the slave on there dime instead.

Simply put, when headers are added, not only do you need to pull all the lines/wires that are combustible away from the header pipes, but the starter should be heat shielded as well.

Jfryjfry

timd38

I went with the one piece line, less joints, less problems.