Mild or Aggressive cam???
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Joined: Oct 2017
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Mild or Aggressive cam???
To start current mods are as is: headers back full exhaust and a a&a v3 ti trim 3.8 pulley @ 8.5lbs 554/516. My trans is currently stock with 55k miles on it. I was told 600-650 is the most I want to put on a stock trans it's the 6l80e automatic. It is a daily driver when I purchase the cam I'll get pushrods valvesprings timing chain oil pump gaskets etc. Just not sure if I want a converter or not, need help on figuring it out.
2 cams I'm looking at:
vengeance racing VRSC-1 223/231 610/617 115+4(NO CONVERTER NEEDED)
vengeance racing VRSC-2 231/239 617/624 115+4(NEEDS A CONVERTER IM THINKING 3400?)
2 cams I'm looking at:
vengeance racing VRSC-1 223/231 610/617 115+4(NO CONVERTER NEEDED)
vengeance racing VRSC-2 231/239 617/624 115+4(NEEDS A CONVERTER IM THINKING 3400?)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 150
From: Woodland CA
Given those 2 choices I would pick the first one (mild) because I feel it will be better in terms of “drivability” especially since you using you C6 as a daily driver and it is an automatic . I also believe even the smaller cam would push you over 600. Just my opinion.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,775
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From: Texas
Here's the thing about high stall converters: Your city mileage will go to crap. I had a 4000 stall Yank converter in my 96 impala and drove it daily for 10 years. Everybody warned me about "driveability" issues, but basically driveability boiled down to pushing the accelerator down an extra quarter inch to get going from a stop. Modern converters, even high stall ones, lock up on the highway so once you're cruising there will be little or no change. But your city mileage will be cut in half or worse, depending on how high the stall is.
If you can live with the mileage, then the converter by itself will make the car about a second faster in the quarter, depending on the stall you settle on.
Do you track the car? If so, you might want to put a bigger trans cooler on the car.
If you can live with the mileage, then the converter by itself will make the car about a second faster in the quarter, depending on the stall you settle on.
Do you track the car? If so, you might want to put a bigger trans cooler on the car.
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I haven't tracked the car however in the future I wouldn't mind tracking it maybe 1-3 times a year if that. It's mostly just a daily driver car, I beat it up on weekends when I cruise with friends etc. But other then that it's no track car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,775
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From: Texas
One other advantage of the high stall converter I forgot to mention is it softens the hit on your driveline when you drag race the car. You'll be less likely to spin the tires or break an axle.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,537
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From: Bethesda MD
Get the mild cam if you want power from a roll. The small cam should push you to the 600 rwhp and drive nicely if properly tuned.
A converter shines in getting the car off the line and into boost quickly. The better the tires, the more you'll enjoy a converter for launches that plaster you back into the seat.
A converter shines in getting the car off the line and into boost quickly. The better the tires, the more you'll enjoy a converter for launches that plaster you back into the seat.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: North Myrtle Beach SC
The earlier post that talked about the 4000 stall Yank is all wrong. My 99 z28 had a 3600 Yank and I lost maybe 1-2 mpg. Didn’t even notice it was in there till I dropped the hammer. Even with the smaller cam you will be much happier with a converter.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 31
From: San Antonio TX
Anyway....Stonebreaker did have his 4000 stall converter in a 4300 LB Impala. Undoubtedly, that had a LOT to do with his experience. But for you to call his DIRECT experience "all wrong" is jacked the **** up.
Jus' sayin'.....
KW
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 4,243
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From: North Myrtle Beach SC
Well...... basing his experience with a 4500 pound car when the car in question is 3100 pounds, yeah, it is messed up.
I drove a mildly cammed LS1 powered car
that weighed 3200 pounds so I think my info is a LITTLE more appropriate.
I drove a mildly cammed LS1 powered car
that weighed 3200 pounds so I think my info is a LITTLE more appropriate.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,999
Likes: 1,684
From: Southeast TX
The beauty of f/I is that you don't need a big gnarly cam to make killer power. I had a 219/231 115lsa under a blower that made 640+rwhp on 9psi. Advance was probably closer to 1 or 2 degrees at the most. Perfect manners with a nice little chop at idle. No buck, surge, shake, or any of that kind of crap. I think it's really, really dumb to over cam a daily driver. Absolutely no reason for it.....unless you're "that guy" that chooses a cam based on the noise it makes at idle.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 31
From: San Antonio TX
KW
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
VRSC-2 . . Will have an overlap of +5 degrees
For a street driven C6, I would opt for the VRSC-1 since is has less overlap ... This will get you more idle vacuum and a tamer idle quality.
Also the slightly less lift of the VRSC-1 will be a little easier on your valve springs.
With either cam, I would opt for this Brian Tooley dual valve spring kit: https://www.briantooleyracing.com/66...pring-kit.html
... No need to spend the extra money for titanium retainers ... steel retainers will be fine.
Your OEM hydraulic valve lifters will also be fine to re-use.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 31
From: San Antonio TX
You did.
I believe that when a person posts about his experience and you directly call out that person’s post as “all wrong”, you’re either calling that person stupid or a liar.
Have a nice life......or not.
KW
Have a nice life......or not.
KW
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
And, good choice selecting a cam with 115 LSA ! (in fact boosted engines like yours do better with a higher LSA)
Go much lower than 115, and idle quality also suffers.
BTW ... The OEM LS3 cam has an LSA of 117 degrees and it is [not] advanced ... In fact, it has an ICL of 120 degrees (which gives it 3 degrees retarded)
.
Go much lower than 115, and idle quality also suffers.
BTW ... The OEM LS3 cam has an LSA of 117 degrees and it is [not] advanced ... In fact, it has an ICL of 120 degrees (which gives it 3 degrees retarded)
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jun 23, 2018 at 06:44 PM.