blwnvette

To start current mods are as is: headers back full exhaust and a a&a v3 ti trim 3.8 pulley @ 8.5lbs 554/516. My trans is currently stock with 55k miles on it. I was told 600-650 is the most I want to put on a stock trans it's the 6l80e automatic. It is a daily driver when I purchase the cam I'll get pushrods valvesprings timing chain oil pump gaskets etc. Just not sure if I want a converter or not, need help on figuring it out.

2 cams I'm looking at:

vengeance racing VRSC-1 223/231 610/617 115+4(NO CONVERTER NEEDED)
vengeance racing VRSC-2 231/239 617/624 115+4(NEEDS A CONVERTER IM THINKING 3400?)

Homer3D

Given those 2 choices I would pick the first one (mild) because I feel it will be better in terms of “drivability” especially since you using you C6 as a daily driver and it is an automatic . I also believe even the smaller cam would push you over 600. Just my opinion.

sstonebreaker

Here's the thing about high stall converters: Your city mileage will go to crap. I had a 4000 stall Yank converter in my 96 impala and drove it daily for 10 years. Everybody warned me about "driveability" issues, but basically driveability boiled down to pushing the accelerator down an extra quarter inch to get going from a stop. Modern converters, even high stall ones, lock up on the highway so once you're cruising there will be little or no change. But your city mileage will be cut in half or worse, depending on how high the stall is.

If you can live with the mileage, then the converter by itself will make the car about a second faster in the quarter, depending on the stall you settle on.

Do you track the car? If so, you might want to put a bigger trans cooler on the car.

blwnvette

I haven't tracked the car however in the future I wouldn't mind tracking it maybe 1-3 times a year if that. It's mostly just a daily driver car, I beat it up on weekends when I cruise with friends etc. But other then that it's no track car.

MYCoupe

Another vote for the first milder cam. It should drive and idle pretty good. With boost you don't need a big cam to make tons of power.

sstonebreaker

One other advantage of the high stall converter I forgot to mention is it softens the hit on your driveline when you drag race the car. You'll be less likely to spin the tires or break an axle.

Ragtop 99

Get the mild cam if you want power from a roll. The small cam should push you to the 600 rwhp and drive nicely if properly tuned.

A converter shines in getting the car off the line and into boost quickly. The better the tires, the more you'll enjoy a converter for launches that plaster you back into the seat.

veneno

another cam that works well with the stock stall is the "tick stock stall cam" I just ordered it today for mine

blwnvette

Thank you for your input. I'm going to order the milder cam and then over the winter ill buy a converter for the car. I appreciate all the help and quick responses.

farmington

KW Baraka

So you're saying someone else's experience is all wrong? Really?

Anyway....Stonebreaker did have his 4000 stall converter in a 4300 LB Impala. Undoubtedly, that had a LOT to do with his experience. But for you to call his DIRECT experience "all wrong" is jacked the **** up.

Jus' sayin'.....

KW

farmington

old motorhead

The beauty of f/I is that you don't need a big gnarly cam to make killer power. I had a 219/231 115lsa under a blower that made 640+rwhp on 9psi. Advance was probably closer to 1 or 2 degrees at the most. Perfect manners with a nice little chop at idle. No buck, surge, shake, or any of that kind of crap. I think it's really, really dumb to over cam a daily driver. Absolutely no reason for it.....unless you're "that guy" that chooses a cam based on the noise it makes at idle.

KW Baraka

Well you should've pointed that out instead of calling the man stupid or a liar.

KW

farmington

who called anybody stupid or a liar but you ?????

blwnvette

What about the core type for the cam 5150 should be fine right? I don't need to go with the 8620 or 8660 do I?

farmington

Turbo6TA

VRSC-1 . . Will have an overlap of -3 degrees
VRSC-2 . . Will have an overlap of +5 degrees

For a street driven C6, I would opt for the VRSC-1 since is has less overlap ... This will get you more idle vacuum and a tamer idle quality.

Also the slightly less lift of the VRSC-1 will be a little easier on your valve springs.

With either cam, I would opt for this Brian Tooley dual valve spring kit: https://www.briantooleyracing.com/66...pring-kit.html

... No need to spend the extra money for titanium retainers ... steel retainers will be fine.

Your OEM hydraulic valve lifters will also be fine to re-use.

KW Baraka

You did.I believe that when a person posts about his experience and you directly call out that person’s post as “all wrong”, you’re either calling that person stupid or a liar.

Have a nice life......or not.

KW

Turbo6TA

And, good choice selecting a cam with 115 LSA ! (in fact boosted engines like yours do better with a higher LSA)

Go much lower than 115, and idle quality also suffers.

BTW ... The OEM LS3 cam has an LSA of 117 degrees and it is [not] advanced ... In fact, it has an ICL of 120 degrees (which gives it 3 degrees retarded)

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