Where to begin... 2011 manual grand sport. basic package... no Bose or telescoping steering wheel or anything.

So about a week ago after I had the oil and alternator belt changed, I started getting the infamous "get service soon, service ABS" warning. It happens every time I drive, after the car warms up for a bit. The weird part was that this time, unlike what happened on my previous C6s... it would clear. And then come back, about every 30 seconds. The red "brake" light would be illuminated as well as the ABS light. And then clear and come back. I did not do a brake check to see if my ABS were actually disabled. I believe the traction control service warning would also come on occasion. The other weird part is my turn signals stop "chiming" but will still work. Same with the hazard switch. Nothing comes on in the dash and doesn't make the clicking noise, but the actual lights work... left right and hazard. The gas and water temp gauges also go to zero... and then come back. The car seems to be running fine otherwise. I am running to advance auto now to read any codes. I will update the post when I get back.

Anyone have anything like this?!?! The previous owner treated this car like crap and im pretty sure supercharged it as I discovered over the past year and a half of owning it.

 

So, for some reason I couldn't get a reading from the OBDII port... kept getting an error. Add it to the list. I am also getting a "service fuel system" error. WTF??

 

First thing to do is have the battery load tested. Weak batteries cause all kinds of wacky issues in these cars. Beyond that, I don't have any other suggestions. Good luck.

 

The cheap code readers at parts stores will not read the codes you have....You need a Tech11 to read them.

 

I would start with the battery, test it with a multi meter with car off and test alternator power output car running.

I would take apart the fuse block under the hood. It separates into 3 sections. The first section where all of the power wires go can sometimes have tension and pull away from the pins.

I had an issue where the bolt pin on that area was not tight enough and caused a weak power connection.

I would then test and remove all the connections at the passenger floor board area that are known to become loose.

 

Do NOT do what is in post # 5!!!!

 

 

LOL ok what exactly would you do and why should he NOT do what is common sense?

 

That is the last thing i would do.."Common sense"...Have you not heard all the horror stories after the dealer took the fuse box apart for the Recall fix for the low beam headlights.......I'm one of them.....I did not even make it off the dealers property before it crapped out.......Read post #4

 

NO i have not heard any horror stories regarding taking apart the fuse box. It is a simple check. The dealer is the problem with most fixes and perhaps did not do their jumper wire correctly.

Tech2 scanner is a bit of over kill to figure out if the battery is taking a charge or not. You can figure that out with the battery dead cell check and what your alternator is outputting.

If the BCM connections are loose that is an issue or if the fuse box panel has a power wire that has too much tension or failure in the connections due to heat soak are common failure points.

 

I don't mean that he needs a Tech 11 to check the battery volts.If he knows how to read a simple VOM he could check....Only a tech11 or a Snap On scanner will pull the codes for ABS,traction control and the other problems he is having...He did not say anything about his battery...............

 

I use an interstate battery, I think its MT86, that has a two year complete replacement warranty and change it out before the two years expire even if I am not having any problems.