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After reading a number of posts on here by people whose opinions I respect, I’ve recently obtained an RSD Line Lock and have run into a number of problems, so I thought I would share the experience so that other folks may avoid the same issues.
I’ll start by saying that the RSD kit seems to be top quality and is a well thought out kit.
However, basically, after much research online, I have concluded that the kit I have was not designed to fit the ‘08-‘13 C6s, which have Bosch master cylinder with different sized (12mm x 1.0 inverted flare) ports, as compared to earlier models. The specific problem is that I could not use either of the two hoses or the adaptor that came with the kit, as they do not fit the master cylinder port or the hard line which runs from the M/C to the ABS module. I have not been able to ascertain if RSD makes a specific kit for the later model C6’s, but they certainly do not advertise it on their website, nor is there an option to order a ‘08-‘13 specific kit, like what Cartek does.
To add to my frustration, it seems that it is next to impossible to find a 12mm x 1.0 inverted flare adaptor fitting that can adapt to either 1/8” NPT or -3AN. I’ve found a bunch of aluminum 12mm x 1.0 to -4AN adaptors, which would require me to add a -4AN to -3AN adaptor, but there’s not a lot of space to add a bunch of adaptors and then still turn downwards towards the line lock inlet port.
Luckily, I had some Wilwood S/S brake hoses on hand that had a 12mm x 1.0 invented flare fitting on one end and -3AN female fittings on the other end. They are a bit longer than needed and I would’ve liked to get them the right length, but I was glad I had them, otherwise I would’ve had to scrap the RSD kit entirely. So, in the end, I bought a short piece of hard brake line, a double flare tool and some 12mm x 1.0 flare hard line fittings and made up a very short (like 2.5”) 12mm male to male hard line and bent it to fit into the 12mm end on one of the hoses and run that to the inlet port of the L/L.
On reflection, it would have been way cheaper to just figure out what was needed and buy a regular line lock and the necessary hoses/lines and adaptors myself. Or the correct Cartek kit, which is what I wanted but they don’t offer shipping overseas on their online store. Neither does RSD, so I bought their kit from another vendor.
Below are a bunch of pictures which, hopefully, speak for themselves:
This is the RSD hose end that is supposed to screw onto the factory hard line. Neither the thread or the style of fitting works
12mm x 1.0 port in Master Cylinder
Final install, with too-long S/S hoses
On the right is the M/C to S/S hose adaptor fitting that comes with the kit, compared to the 12mm x 1.0 fitting that screws in to the M/C.
The entire kit as delivered. Neither of these hoses will work on ‘08 up C6 without adaptors
After reading a number of posts on here by people whose opinions I respect, I’ve recently obtained an RSD Line Lock and have run into a number of problems, so I thought I would share the experience so that other folks may avoid the same issues.
I’ll start by saying that the RSD kit seems to be top quality and is a well thought out kit.
However, basically, after much research online, I have concluded that the kit I have was not designed to fit the ‘08-‘13 C6s, which have Bosch master cylinder with different sized (12mm x 1.0 inverted flare) ports, as compared to earlier models. The specific problem is that I could not use either of the two hoses or the adaptor that came with the kit, as they do not fit the master cylinder port or the hard line which runs from the M/C to the ABS module. I have not been able to ascertain if RSD makes a specific kit for the later model C6’s, but they certainly do not advertise it on their website, nor is there an option to order a ‘08-‘13 specific kit, like what Cartek does.
To add to my frustration, it seems that it is next to impossible to find a 12mm x 1.0 inverted flare adaptor fitting that can adapt to either 1/8” NPT or -3AN. I’ve found a bunch of aluminum 12mm x 1.0 to -4AN adaptors, which would require me to add a -4AN to -3AN adaptor, but there’s not a lot of space to add a bunch of adaptors and then still turn downwards towards the line lock inlet port.
Luckily, I had some Wilwood S/S brake hoses on hand that had a 12mm x 1.0 invented flare fitting on one end and -3AN female fittings on the other end. They are a bit longer than needed and I would’ve liked to get them the right length, but I was glad I had them, otherwise I would’ve had to scrap the RSD kit entirely. So, in the end, I bought a short piece of hard brake line, a double flare tool and some 12mm x 1.0 flare hard line fittings and made up a very short (like 2.5”) 12mm male to male hard line and bent it to fit into the 12mm end on one of the hoses and run that to the inlet port of the L/L.
On reflection, it would have been way cheaper to just figure out what was needed and buy a regular line lock and the necessary hoses/lines and adaptors myself. Or the correct Cartek kit, which is what I wanted but they don’t offer shipping overseas on their online store. Neither does RSD, so I bought their kit from another vendor.
Below are a bunch of pictures which, hopefully, speak for themselves:
This is the RSD hose end that is supposed to screw onto the factory hard line. Neither the thread or the style of fitting works
12mm x 1.0 port in Master Cylinder
Final install, with too-long S/S hoses
everything bolted right up on my 05 car and friend installed one on his 09 car last year.he never mentioned having any issues with his install.when I get a chance to look at his again I will see what the differences are.its a bitch when you don't have the proper parts and makes simple jobs more complicated than need be. On the right is the M/C to S/S hose adaptor fitting that comes with the kit, compared to the 12mm x 1.0 fitting that screws in to the M/C.
The entire kit as delivered. Neither of these hoses will work on ‘08 up C6 without adaptors
everything bolted right up on my 05 car and friend installed new one on his 09 car last year.he never mentioned having any issues with his install.when I get a chance to look at his again I will see what the differences are.its a bitch when you don't have the proper parts and makes simple jobs more difficult than need be
everything bolted right up on my 05 car and friend installed new one on his 09 car last year.he never mentioned having any issues with his install.when I get a chance to look at his again I will see what the differences are.its a bitch when you don't have the proper parts and makes simple jobs more difficult than need be
Thanks man. I would definitely be interested to hear whether your friend had any trouble installing his kit. Maybe they do offer one to fit the later models, and I simply got the one for the earlier model?
Thanks man. I would definitely be interested to hear whether your friend had any trouble installing his kit. Maybe they do offer one to fit the later models, and I simply got the one for the earlier model?
just spoke to friend about his.he claims his 09 kit was identical to mine and everything needed came with the kit.he is at work so not able to compare side by side.will check when both cars are together
Where did you order your kit from? It seems you got a mislabeled/wrong kit. Was your master cylinder ever changed out? I plan to get one some day and will get mine from Lingenfelter. Hope you get things resolved!
Or you could of went with your last assumption and bought the solenoid online at one of the speed sites $47.69. (wont mention the name but it starts with a J, same solenoid just has a J's sticker on it which you can peel off) and splice it into the rear brake line coming off the MC. No need for fitting hunting, just need a flare tool and tube bender. Go to your local auto parts store and buy and already made up tube with the fittings and flares (they have different lengths, but I believe the length was 12", I cut one end of the flare off to size the length and bend). This tube goes from the top of the solenoid the MC. Size, bend and flare. The OEM line goes in the bottom of the noid. When you cut your line make a nice cut and save the piece to replace if you want to remove the noid. Buy a momentary switch for $5 at your choice of interweb electronics store and your in business... No hoses, no fusses, no mess, nice clean install.
Not knocking your kit or install at all. But couldn't help myself when you talked yourself right to it at the end of you 1st post. Just another way to do it.
Where did you order your kit from? It seems you got a mislabeled/wrong kit. Was your master cylinder ever changed out? I plan to get one some day and will get mine from Lingenfelter. Hope you get things resolved!
I got my kit from Speed Inc. Thought it was a pretty good deal, since it was like ~$85 cheaper than what RSD and Lingenfelter list them for ($290 vs. $375). It also appears that it is the same kit as advertised on both the RSD and LPE sites. I bought my car new and have never changed the master cylinder, so it’s definitely the OEM M/C. I’ve got it sorted now (unless my homemade adaptor or something else leaks). Just need to bleed the front brakes and then run the wiring and sort out the activator button.
Or you could of went with your last assumption and bought the solenoid online at one of the speed sites $47.69. (wont mention the name but it starts with a J, same solenoid just has a J's sticker on it which you can peel off) and splice it into the rear brake line coming off the MC. No need for fitting hunting, just need a flare tool and tube bender. Go to your local auto parts store and buy and already made up tube with the fittings and flares (they have different lengths, but I believe the length was 12", I cut one end of the flare off to size the length and bend). This tube goes from the top of the solenoid the MC. Size, bend and flare. The OEM line goes in the bottom of the noid. When you cut your line make a nice cut and save the piece to replace if you want to remove the noid. Buy a momentary switch for $5 at your choice of interweb electronics store and your in business... No hoses, no fusses, no mess, nice clean install.
Not knocking your kit or install at all. But couldn't help myself when you talked yourself right to it at the end of you 1st post. Just another way to do it.
Oh , I agree entirely. Had I known then what I know now, I would’ve done the exact same thing. The whole reason I bought this kit was for it’s supposed ease of installation and having all the adaptors and lines needed. Having said that, I would’ve ordered the Cartek ‘09-13 kit if I had found a vendor online that could ship it overseas to me.
Wait, where’s your windshield washer reservoir? You have way more space there than I did!
Had I known then what I know now, I would’ve done the exact same thing.
I tell people the same thing about nitrous kits.
Good catch on the wiper bottle. It has since gone away for other things to occupy that space. I have a pic of it installed with the bottle some where. Just the way you bend the tube. Also notice the bracket on the noid fit perfect to the mount of the MC stud and hangs under the MC.
Good catch on the wiper bottle. It has since gone away for other things to occupy that space. I have a pic of it installed with the bottle some where. Just the way you bend the tube. Also notice the bracket on the noid fit perfect to the mount of the MC stud and hangs under the MC.
Good luck with it!
Yep, that’s a pretty slick little setup you did there. Looks like it was a custom kit and no doubt for a more than few pennies cheaper than what I’ve expended so far... I also like that your solenoid is much farther away from the header in that location too.
If I had to do it over, I would do it just like that. In fact, I may very well buy a few more adaptors and bend myself a hard line from the M/C to the solenoid as well. Looks way neater than mine.That frickin washer bottle neck damn near drove me nuts the other night. It’s a bitch to get your hands anywhere in the engine room of one of these C6s.
Just to update this thread, I completed the Line Lock install a couple of weekends ago, and it turned out fine and so far it’s leak free, but I only got a chance to test it this weekend. The line lock itself works fine, but as I feared after reading a few threads on here, it instantly threw a “Service Active Handling” message up on the DTC, and I had to shut the motor off and open the door to get it to go away. From what I’ve read, this seems to be only a problem on the later model C6’s ABS, due to the ABS pressure sensor location. It seems that it is caused when the ABS senses line pressure without brake pedal being depressed.
I’ll try it the next time with my left foot resting lightly on the brake pedal and see if that cures the problem.
Just to update this thread, I completed the Line Lock install a couple of weekends ago, and it turned out fine and so far it’s leak free, but I only got a chance to test it this weekend. The line lock itself works fine, but as I feared after reading a few threads on here, it instantly threw a “Service Active Handling” message up on the DTC, and I had to shut the motor off and open the door to get it to go away. From what I’ve read, this seems to be only a problem on the later model C6’s ABS, due to the ABS pressure sensor location. It seems that it is caused when the ABS senses line pressure without brake pedal being depressed.
I’ll try it the next time with my left foot resting lightly on the brake pedal and see if that cures the problem.
you did remember to turn traction control off when you used the line lock,right.
you did remember to turn traction control off when you used the line lock,right.
Yep. I held the T/C bottom down for the requisite 10-15 seconds so that both Traction Control and Active Handling were turned off, which is how I run my car at the strip. In fact, I know that active handling wasn’t working, because when I let the button go during the burnout in third gear it was spinning so violently that it turned sideways and I had to straighten it up and then lift off. It practically melted the NT05Rs though.I could hear them throwing rocks and dirt up onto the fender wells up until I pulled into the driveway.
Just to update this thread, I completed the Line Lock install a couple of weekends ago, and it turned out fine and so far it’s leak free, but I only got a chance to test it this weekend. The line lock itself works fine, but as I feared after reading a few threads on here, it instantly threw a “Service Active Handling” message up on the DTC, and I had to shut the motor off and open the door to get it to go away. From what I’ve read, this seems to be only a problem on the later model C6’s ABS, due to the ABS pressure sensor location. It seems that it is caused when the ABS senses line pressure without brake pedal being depressed.
I’ll try it the next time with my left foot resting lightly on the brake pedal and see if that cures the problem.
I have same issue in my 09 zr1 with warning lights coming on after activating my line lock. I'm still looking for a way to bypass that or trick the brake pedal sensor when line lock is activated.
I have same issue in my 09 zr1 with warning lights coming on after activating my line lock. I'm still looking for a way to bypass that or trick the brake pedal sensor when line lock is activated.
Will take a extra solenoid, but if you pick up the lines coming out of the abs to the brakes, you don't get the pressure problem back at the ABS until with your foot off the break.
Hell better way yet, is to go into the controller of the EBCM , and pick up the valve exit solenoids to lock the brakes up that way isntead.
With some diodes, the EBCM will never see the power being applied to just solenoids to hold the exit valves closed, nor the pressure being held in the ABS unit itself with you off the brake brake pedal, so will not freak out the EBCM unit to start throwing codes.
I run a RSD on my car have for 7+ years, not a single issue. Went right in.
had it on my 07 z06 with no issues. Put same one on my 09 zr1 same way... and I get the abs/traction lights every time I use it. Must be a different abs control module on newer cars.
Yep. I held the T/C bottom down for the requisite 10-15 seconds so that both Traction Control and Active Handling were turned off, which is how I run my car at the strip. In fact, I know that active handling wasn’t working, because when I let the button go during the burnout in third gear it was spinning so violently that it turned sideways and I had to straighten it up and then lift off. It practically melted the NT05Rs though.I could hear them throwing rocks and dirt up onto the fender wells up until I pulled into the driveway.
Not sure what year your car is but since it's a GS has to be at least a 10. What you describe above is how the C5 (and maybe early C6's) enter into "Comp" mode. On your car, hitting the button once (not holding) will turn traction control off. This is where you want to do your burn out. If you hit the button again it will enter "Comp" mode and keep TC off and turn AH (active handling) off. You don't want this mode on when you make the hit AH is your friend. If you hit the button again it will turn TC & AH back on.
My GS's a 12, I run a 28" Hoosier (15" rim) and 26" M&H skinny (17" rim) no issues burnout or hit and the "noid" I have is the same as the one in included in the RSD kit .
Guess I could of read the title and see you have a 13. Give my post above a try. You should be happy!
Thanks. Is your car an A6 like mine? I think the AH/TC logic is different between the manual and auto trans cars. On my car, if I click the TC button once, it deactivates TC. If I click it twice, it will go into “competition mode”, which retains AH, apparently. If I hold the button down for about 10-15 seconds, it will display a message on the DIC saying Traction Control and Active Handling disabled, or something to that effect. I normally drive my car in comp mode on the street and I’ve mostly run it with everything disabled at the track, because I don’t need or want AH. I’ve done many burnouts like that before the the Line Lock was installed, without any issue, and the first time I tried it with the line lock, I got the AH disabled message on the DIC and had to shut the car down and open the door to clear it. That tells me that there’s a problem that being caused by the Line Lock, no?
RSD Line Lock Install problems on ‘13 GS
Just another way to do it. 
I also like that your solenoid is much farther away from the header in that location too.
Give my post above a try. You should be happy!